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Chrysler T&C EGR Valve

37 messages,  Last post on Apr 04, 2013 at 1:58 PM

You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum.

What is this discussion about? Dodge Caravan, Chrysler Town and Country, Plymouth Voyager, Van

Messages Page 3 of 5

#14 of 37 Upstream 02 Sensor by mlmaler

Aug 19, 2008 (7:54 am)

With onboard diagnostics why would it take 2.5 hours to test and replace the upstream oxygen sensor upon a "check engine light".
 
This is also the 2nd time I have had to replace it and I only have 64,000 km on it, although it is a 2001.
 
Thanks

#15 of 37 Re: EGR Valve location on 2005 Chrysler T&C [gary53] by krl2

Oct 02, 2008 (3:45 am)

Replying to: gary53 (Jul 26, 2007 2:49 pm)
Your info regarding egr on 05 t&c will be most helpful to me. Dealer quote to replace it is $498.00. Totally out of the question.... I found original mopar part from company in Houston, Tx. for $ 64.00 plus 3.00 for gasket & 5.00 shipping. Because of your instructions, I will attempt this myself this Saturday. Wish me LUCK !!!! ( Van has 49,000 miles )

#16 of 37 Re: EGR Valve location on 2005 Chrysler T&C [gary53] by eksharp8

Feb 02, 2009 (1:12 pm)

Replying to: gary53 (Jul 26, 2007 2:49 pm)
gary53, very nice email explaining how to replace egr. My only question is if I remove top bolt on alternator won't it want to jump out of place due the tension on the belt? Thanks.....

#17 of 37 Re: [jdthorn] by javandyke

Feb 18, 2009 (10:46 pm)

Replying to: jdthorn (Jul 17, 2008 2:32 pm)
This did not work out well for me either. Could not get at the bottom bolt on EGR. Tensioner was frozen (not sure how to release it, I turned the bolt on the tensioner end (not the pulley) as I saw a reference to it on the web, to turn it clockwise to release tension, bolt broke). So EGR is still in and I'm worse off then before. Funny thing is I work on old cars for a hobby, can pull motors, tear down and rebuild all manner of things, this job was a SNAFU. I need a book on it I guess. I probably was working on the wrong tensioner part?

#18 of 37 Re: [javandyke] by eksharp8

Feb 19, 2009 (6:03 pm)

Replying to: javandyke (Feb 18, 2009 10:46 pm)
I was trying to figure out how to get to the bottom bolt too. Finally got there by removing the tube off the top of the EGR, loosening the bottom bolt then removed the top bolt, I was then able to tilt the egr back which made it easier to get to the bottom bolt. I loosened it as much as I could with a 1/4 drive 10MM socket then when the socket bumped up against the alternator I used a pair of needle nose pliers to finish removing the bottom bolt. Now the bolt that held the tube on that broke off is a whole nuther story, dealer wanted $17 for one bolt, I left and found ACE hardware had the bolt I needed for 55 cents.

#19 of 37 Re: [jdthorn] by sirgma

May 28, 2009 (4:33 pm)

Replying to: jdthorn (Jul 17, 2008 2:32 pm)
If you will use a 8 mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2 inch extention for the tube going into the the valve cover, and a 10mm 1/4" drive socket with a 2" extention for the egr valve bolts, you wont have to remove anything. 10 min job to replace with these tools.

#20 of 37 Re: [sirgma] by cuegf

Jul 14, 2009 (10:33 pm)

Replying to: sirgma (May 28, 2009 4:33 pm)
OK the dealership quoted the EGR valve replacement at over $400, after chatting with co-workers and doing searchs around the web I decided to take this on. I have NO automotive experience but figured I could do this. I purchased the part at www.clearlyauto.com for about $80. The EGR part number is on the black front part facing you and away from the engine, hard to see but was able to make it out. You need this number to order the part.
 
I used sirgma's advice above and advice I received from another poster on another site (can't remember) but you unscrew the tube screws (2) from the top, then unscrew the top screw on the side of the EGR with an extender. Then carefully pry the EGR back towards the engine very gently, once it moved I was able to tap it back a bit further which not only loosened the bottom screw but made it a bit easier to get to with an extender. Then I put everything back on in opposite order, bottom side screw with the EGR pushed back almost tight then I moved it into place and got everything buttoned up. Worked like a charm, I did it in under an hour with crappy tools. Thanks everyone!!

#21 of 37 Re: [cuegf] by cbwilsha

Jul 15, 2009 (8:36 am)

Replying to: cuegf (Jul 14, 2009 10:33 pm)
Bravo! And saved $320.
 
C.B.

#22 of 37 2005 t&c egr valve by jdcar2

Jan 28, 2010 (8:39 pm)

Thank you every one for all the useful info. I feel as though I am ready to try and replace my egr valve, one question though. (History is that my engine light went on and my mechanic said code stated egr valve needed replacement, cost to me approx. 250$ for parts and labor). I was told from a third party that replacing the egr valve with a new one will not turn off my engine light and that I will need to take van to dealer and pay them to reset code to turn off engine light . Is this correct. I thought brain module would resend signal and reset itself automatically. Excuse my terminology as I am not sure of proper terms. Any reply would be greatly appreciated.

#23 of 37 Re: 2005 t&c egr valve [jdcar2] by xwesx

Jan 29, 2010 (11:47 am)

Replying to: jdcar2 (Jan 28, 2010 8:39 pm)
The code will clear after about 40 cycles without a recurrence, or you can use a code reader (these cost between $80 and $150, depending on what you get) to pull the set codes and reset. One or two uses of this device (rather than taking to a dealer) and it will pay for itself.

Messages Page 3 of 5

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