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Hyundai Azera 2008

586 messages,  Last post on Aug 24, 2009 at 6:25 PM

You are in the Hyundai Azera Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Hyundai Azera, Sedan


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#517 of 586
Re: CD player problem [101649] by allmet33
Jun 08, 2009 (12:31 pm)
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Replying to: 101649 (Jun 08, 2009 12:19 pm)

I took a peek at the odometer this morning and it was at 69,480 miles. As far as I know, the power train warranty is all inclusive of everything that makes the car go.
 
The Audi is doing great, I'm about to change the front rotors on it myself. The place I took it for state inspection over torqued the lug nuts on it when he put the wheels back on and warped the rotors. Since I can't prove it to him, I have to take that one on the chin. Luckily...the rotors are only gonna cost me about $130 for two.
 
Yeah...with the mileage you have, EVERYTHING is practically covered. LOL
 
You've only pushed yours to 120 mph? I had the pleasure of getting mine up to a hair under 140. However, that was with the 20" wheels on, not the OEM wheels. The fastest I've driven on OEM wheels is maybe 110 mph.
#518 of 586
Electrical Problem(?) by donnie
Jun 08, 2009 (12:51 pm)
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Help! We purchased a 2008 ex-rental Azera in March '09 with 13K miles. We left it in our garage for 5 days a couple of weeks ago. It didn't start as the battery was dead. Got it going, brought it to a Hyundai dealer. They "checked it out" and said nothing is wrong. A week later parked it at an airport for 6 days, came back at 10 PM, same problem. Got a jump start, brought it to the same service dept. They said they let it sit for 6 days to duplicate our experience and guess what...they told me it started just fine and "everything checked out OK." How can we trust this car? Is there anything about the Azera we should know?
#519 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [donnie] by allmet33
Jun 08, 2009 (1:07 pm)
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Replying to: donnie (Jun 08, 2009 12:51 pm)

There have been postings about this problem on other model years of the Azera. Try going back through a few of the threads and see if you can locate it as I'm not 100% sure where to direct you on it.
 
If I recall, the issue was a rubber "stopper" not being in place to depress the hood pin for the alarm system and it allows the battery to drain.
#520 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [allmet33] by donnie
Jun 08, 2009 (5:33 pm)
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Replying to: allmet33 (Jun 08, 2009 1:07 pm)

Thanks for the info. I'll try to find where the problem is discussed.
#521 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [donnie] by 101649
Jun 09, 2009 (3:49 am)
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Replying to: donnie (Jun 08, 2009 12:51 pm)

original Korean batteries are lousy...get an Interstate Platinum your worries will be over
#522 of 586
Re: Any problems with Azera warranty repair requests? [ryster] by HyundaiisBest
Jun 09, 2009 (5:03 am)
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Replying to: ryster (Apr 05, 2009 4:13 pm)

I'd get the strut bar. they're $100 In phoenix our curbs are massive and i noted big difference on the soft swaying i got before i put in the strut bar. It seems to keep the car from scissoring when one wheel is elevated on a curb and the other is not and u are moving and turning. Seems a little tighter when cornering as well Luck to you and the azzie
#523 of 586
Auto industry questions? by pat HOST
Jun 10, 2009 (8:17 am)
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Join Consumer Advice Editor, Phil Reed, and other Edmunds staff for an auto industry chat TONIGHT, Wednesday, 9:00 -10:00 pm/et (6:00 -7:00 pm/pt). To enter the chat, click on the banner at the top of the page.
 
See you there!
#524 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [donnie] by gamleged
Jun 10, 2009 (3:20 pm)
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Replying to: donnie (Jun 08, 2009 12:51 pm)

It's likely that one of the alarm switches (1 for each door, one trunk, one hood) is not making, most likely the hood switch as some have had a problem with that switch's actuating rubber bumper falling off. When locking with the remote, you should get the parking lights to flash and get one audible beep and a steady 30 second red, then blinking on the dash light.
 
The hood switch is on the passenger side, just in front and to the left of the coolant overflow bottle, and there should be a rubber bumper up on the hood that engagages the switch when the hood is closed. You might try to open the hood, hold down the switch manually and try your remote lock to see if the situation is resolved, then fix accordingly.
 
You'll want to get this resolved quickly, as, if the alarm is continually (and unsuccessfully) seeking engagement, it will drain the car battery in a day or two if you aren't driving daily, as you've already seen!...
#525 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [gamleged] by donnie
Jun 11, 2009 (1:26 pm)
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Replying to: gamleged (Jun 10, 2009 3:20 pm)

Thanks for the tip. No luck! When I locked it with the remote, everything went the way you described, with the red light blinking every ten seconds or so. I even tried it with the hood open and my finger pressing down on the switch as you suggested. The bumper is on firmly, so I guess what's not my problem. I did notice the red light continued to blink even after I opened the doors but stopped when I started the engine. I guess that's normal(?). I dropped the rear seatback just to be sure it's not the trunk light---that's out when the trunk is closed. Ditto with the interior lights.
Dealer sez everything checks out--the drain on the battery is very small, within specs. I asked what could be doing this. I got a honest answer: "I donno." Maybe it is the battery, maybe I should get an Interstate as someone suggested.
#526 of 586
Re: Electrical Problem(?) [donnie] by gamleged
Jun 11, 2009 (3:57 pm)
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Replying to: donnie (Jun 11, 2009 1:26 pm)

That could be, then. My OEM battery began to fail about 2 weeks short of 2 years from when I took delivery, so they replaced it (with an Interstate) at no charge to me, on a Saturday, same day I called them...

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