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SUVs Chevrolet Blazer 01 Blazer stalls and jerks when air conditioner is on
8 messages, Last post on May 26, 2009 at 3:16 AM
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I have a unique problem my 01 S10 Blazer with 113,000 + miles, 6 cylinder. Last year during 90 degree heat my Blazer stalled on me for the first time, it started right back up and we didn’t give it a second though. While I was driving down the road it started to chug while getting up to speed and the bumper to bumper expressway traffic didn’t help this situation at all. After traveling around 100 miles I could barely get the vehicle past 30 mpg so we pulled it in to a gas station where my husband thought it was either water in the gas tank or a bad fuel pump. Vehicle sat while he went in search of a fuel pump. Friend advised that the same thing happened to him down south and that it was the air conditioner that caused our problems. He told us to disconnect the battery wait 3 minutes reconnect the battery and the computer would reset itself to get us home, and to not run the air conditioner. He advised that we needed to change the O2 sensors and some other things and that would fix the problem. It did, and while I work at GM and have engineers at my disposal they all thought I was crazy and said my air conditioner would not have caused this problem. Well it happened again yesterday 95+ out side, we had air conditioner on and in stop and go traffic it started to chug and stall. My husband disconnected the battery and we waited but it did not fix the problem. We chugged so much it disconnected the battery and everything went dead. We were able to pull over and try this procedure all over again and it worked this time. We waited longer and it seems to me the vehicle sat for some time before we did it the first time last year. Anyway it still stalled at every light or stop sign so I kept having to put it in to neutral and revved the engine a little to stop the stalling, but we made it home. Today it is fine, although it did give me a little hard time starting and I did not run the air conditioner. Basically when this happens tack bounces all over the place, and vehicle stalls when stopping. If vehicle had a carburetor I would tell you the choke was stuck open or closed. My husband is wondering if it is a vapor lock but why would just the air conditioner cause this. I can tell you it does not happen unless it is above 80 and the air is on. Any idea’s as to what is causing this?
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Replying to: nmuriel (Jul 09, 2007 10:03 am)
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Replying to: repairdog (Jul 10, 2007 5:10 pm) From another persons point of view it probably looks like I am using a clutch and keep popping the clutch because the car jerks wildly while trying to get it up to speed. My husband said we had to replace the map sensor as well as both O2 sensors the first time. Why does the combination of extremely hot day and air conditioner cause this issue. PS: Had check engine light on for long time, it went off now. Go figure. I am just going to by a horse and be done with it. 
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Replying to: nmuriel (Jul 09, 2007 10:03 am) |
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I have the same problem and still to this day. What is causing your BIZ to jerk is the heat control sensor indicator located in the transmission. A very expensive sensor. You see when you have the AC on, the blazer motor is running much hotter than before. The radiator cannot cool the motor and transmission down ( the radiator cannot carry the load). To me this is a missed calculation on GM part. The transmission cannot cool down fast enough and the fluid breaks down causing it to be very thin. The sensor which control the modulator (it is slipping) in transmission is causing the kicks. My transmission technician advise me that I will need to get a new transmission. I said no but just to change the transmission fluid to a new batch. The new fresh fluid does not break down so easy to heat and fixed the problem. It cost me $60 to flush the transmission fluid. I now change my fluid ever 15k miles. Also, when you first experience the first kick, cut off the AC and allow the engine to cool to it normal reading. You can continue to drive though. It will take at least 30 to 45 minutes to cool down but it will cool down. Notice how high the temperature gauge is reading when it is 90 degrees outside and you have your AC on verses when you do not. Good luck!
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Replying to: dlbking (May 11, 2008 4:12 pm) I don't know who your transmission guy is, but you better get a second opinion. The cooling system in a Blazer is more than adequate for the engine and auto tranny, even here in central Texas. I have two Blazers, and can run both in 100+ temps with the A/C on and towing a trailer and the temp guage never goes above 195, which is where the thermostat is set. And I can find no information on a "heat control sensor" in the 4L60E transmission. Now, you can get weird issues if you overheat the tranny by letting your coolant get low, or otherwise obstruct the radiator as the transmission cooling lines go through the radiator. But I have never heard of a temp sensor in the tranny, nor can I find anything about it in my manuals. Typically, stumbling and jerking with additional load (a/c, towing, hills) come down to the basics of ignition and fuel delivery, and usually ignition. The 4.3L has a bad habit of the coil to distributor wire arcing against a metal bracket between the two. Depending on the mileage (>50K) I will check for burned rotor and cap, and also look for arc marks on the wires. While there are certainly other things that can cause stumbling, a bad wire, rotor, or cap will not set a fault code until they get really bad. So these are the places I start with. Jim |
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| My 2000 Blazer acts as if it "misses" a little, too, when I run the A/C. It runs just fine if I shut it off. | |
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While we haven't had really hot weather here were I am forced to run my air conditionaire on max, I am hoping the issue is fixed. We had to replace the fuel pump a while back, and I am just wondering if that was causing my issues. Keep in mind this ONLY happens when the weather is in the 90's and I have the air on MAX. Disconnecting the battery and waiting 10 minutes clears everything up. We have been advised to replace the O2 senors but that can get expensive if you have to do that every year. The reason I thing the fuel pump might have been the culprit is my daughter has a 1999 Cavalair and always had problems with the TAC jumping and stalling for no reason. Had the engine replaced at 60,000 with the same issues. The vehicle finally would go no more after about another 60,000 or so and we ended up changing the fuel pump, and knock on wood it runs fine now. In the Balazer's case the fuel pump just up and quit in my daughters case it never quit just kept jerking and stalling a lot. Will keep everyone in formed if the fuel pump fixes my problem as well. 
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