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Buying a Used CJ or Wrangler

59 messages, Last post on Sep 07, 2009 at 8:20 AM
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Replying to: floko (Jul 09, 2007 11:43 pm)
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From many years of experience, there is ALWAYS more damage than first appears. In my experience, insurance assessors and claims adjusters are pretty sharp and aren't usually known for their generosity when setting the selling price of a damaged vehicle. As to value, the general rule of thumb is that a repaired salvage titled vehicle is worth 50% of what it would be with a regular title. Whether it's worth it or not to you depends on how you value your time, your skill level. A messed up salvage titled '06 will be worth half what a messed up but regular titled '06 would be. Remember also, that late model salvage titled vehicles can be difficult to sell because traditional credit institutions are reluctant lend on them. Finally, eBay and salvage yards are the major source of used parts, both good and bad. Keep in mind that if you use parts from earlier models then the vehicle's value will be depreciated even further.
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Replying to: mac24 (Jul 26, 2007 6:27 am)
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Replying to: jc63 (Aug 01, 2007 6:50 pm) That's good, as it'll get about the same as the 4.0. but I am curious about power for pulling a boat/trailor Unless it's a very lightweight trailer, forget it. highway speeds If it's flat with no headwind you'll eventually be able to match speed with surrounding traffic. torque for mud and hills This where gearing makes up for the difference in power between the 4.0 and the 2.5. The 2.5 does fine offroad. |
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Replying to: jc63 (Aug 01, 2007 6:50 pm) I have a 1997 TJ SE with the 4 cyl and 5 speed. Manual transmission is the ONLY way I'd have gotten a 4 cyl. A 6 was my preference, but ended up with the 4 since it was initially for my 16 YO daughter. MPG is decent, about the same as the 4.0 - your limiting factor is the Jeep's lack of aerodynamics, lack of high end horsepower, and excess of drag, especially as you mod it. Power for pulling a boat? Realize that the SWB TJ you're looking at has a rating of MAX 1500 lbs or so, due mainly to the short wheel base. For the 2.5, I'd say the realistic max is a bit lower than that. I moved my daughter to new apartments and home with my TJ using this trailer. Yeah, I need a drop neck hitch on the TJ. You see it loaded about 1/2 to 2/3 full of hardwood floor. THAT was not problem, but I was only going max of 45-50. I couldn't imagine hauling THAT size trailer or a boat on the highway. Jetski, probably. Lightweight Sunfish or boat, likely. But a fullsize powerboat, no way. Also a 1/4 ton military trailer with camping gear or a Lowe's/Home Depot run, sure would LOVE one of those. Highway speeds are a mix. I have regeared to 4.88 to help with the rotational mass of the 33's I have as tires. That puts me to about stock. Here in north Alabama, Tennessee, and Kentucky, I can normally maintain 65-75 depending if I am going up (60-65), down (65-80), or level (right about 70). If the hill is long and/or steep, I'll have to downshift to 4th, sometimes 3rd if it is REAL steep. I'm used to it. I have another car for go fast duties, with twice as many cylinders. For offroad, the 4 cyl does JUST fine. I've taken it places where the 6 cyl Rubicons go (I'm locked front and rear). With the appropriate gearing, a manual transmission, a hand throttle, and a good spotter, I can go where I want to go with no problems. Just a slightly different driving style. While 6 cyls can tackle a steep, rocky hill in 2nd gear and 4lo, I'd approach it in 4lo and 1st gear. 2nd gear can lead to the engine lugging a bit and potentially dying. I prefer to keep the RPM's a bit higher on a ride like that. I DO NOT LIKE restarting my engine on a STEEP incline while offcamber. Offroad... If you need to haul a boat, you MAY want to consider one of the newer TJ Unlimited's which have the longer wheelbase, higher towing capacity, and the 4.0 engine. Feel free to ask any other questions you'd like. -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Aug 02, 2007 6:34 am) "Manual transmission is the ONLY way I'd have gotten a 4 cyl"
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Replying to: mac24 (Aug 02, 2007 6:44 am) -Paul
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Replying to: erickpl (Aug 02, 2007 12:28 pm) As far as the CJ vs wrangler (notice not capitalized) The wrangler is a good product and generally all around sound vehicle. The 4.0 is bullet proof, they learned that back in the 60's. If mileage is a concern go for the 4.0 or any in line 6 cylinder version. I will say as far as suspension the wranglers do have us CJers beat. As far as a stock product they made some good changes. I would not purchase the 9" CJ. It is a problem waiting to surface. It also sounds to me that you have a limited jeep experience. That 9" lift is a bear to handle. As far as the pulling it is a simple solution, drop the Jeep 5" and it will probably fly straight. Anybody who goes over 4" is an idiot, unless you are building for a specific reason. Off-roading is a slow moving art form of driving. You could build the most radical machine and have a stock 4cyl pass you on the trail because the other knows how to drive. The key is not power but torque AT THE WHEELS. Rust: look at the chassis as mentioned earlier. If you find surface rust no biggie. If it has rusted through the frame anywhere but on the very front or very rear then do not purchase. A good way to fix the problem is POR15. Simply brush it on and it will cease the rust. Good product. And it will keep you busy over the winter months. I hope my blabbering helped and you got a chuckle or two. If down in NC come by the shop. I am never there. JOHN PS I like the little car thingies.
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