Last post on Dec 09, 2011 at 7:33 AM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Wrangler, Jeep CJ-7, SUV
#14 of 63 Re: 4 cylinder vs. 6 [jc63]
Aug 02, 2007 (7:25 am)
What can you tell about the 4 cylinder? I don't expect much in the way of MPG,
That's good, as it'll get about the same as the 4.0.
but I am curious about power for pulling a boat/trailor
Unless it's a very lightweight trailer, forget it.
If it's flat with no headwind you'll eventually be able to match speed with surrounding traffic.
torque for mud and hills
This where gearing makes up for the difference in power between the 4.0 and the 2.5. The 2.5 does fine offroad.
#15 of 63 Re: 4 cylinder vs. 6 [jc63]
Aug 02, 2007 (7:34 am)
I can address this.
I have a 1997 TJ SE with the 4 cyl and 5 speed. Manual transmission is the ONLY way I'd have gotten a 4 cyl. A 6 was my preference, but ended up with the 4 since it was initially for my 16 YO daughter.
MPG is decent, about the same as the 4.0 - your limiting factor is the Jeep's lack of aerodynamics, lack of high end horsepower, and excess of drag, especially as you mod it. If you have press down hard on the pedal to get it going, you WILL take a MPG hit.
Power for pulling a boat? Realize that the SWB TJ you're looking at has a rating of MAX 1500 lbs or so, due mainly to the short wheel base. For the 2.5, I'd say the realistic max is a bit lower than that. I moved my daughter to new apartments and home with my TJ using this trailer. Yeah, I need a drop neck hitch on the TJ.
You see it loaded about 1/2 to 2/3 full of hardwood floor. THAT was not problem, but I was only going max of 45-50. I couldn't imagine hauling THAT size trailer or a boat on the highway. Jetski, probably. Lightweight Sunfish or boat, likely. But a fullsize powerboat, no way. Also a 1/4 ton military trailer with camping gear or a Lowe's/Home Depot run, sure would LOVE one of those.
Highway speeds are a mix. I have regeared to 4.88 to help with the rotational mass of the 33's I have as tires. That puts me to about stock. Here in north Alabama, Tennessee, and Kentucky, I can normally maintain 65-75 depending if I am going up (60-65), down (65-80), or level (right about 70). If the hill is long and/or steep, I'll have to downshift to 4th, sometimes 3rd if it is REAL steep. I'm used to it. I have another car for go fast duties, with twice as many cylinders.
For offroad, the 4 cyl does JUST fine. I've taken it places where the 6 cyl Rubicons go (I'm locked front and rear). With the appropriate gearing, a manual transmission, a hand throttle, and a good spotter, I can go where I want to go with no problems. Just a slightly different driving style. While 6 cyls can tackle a steep, rocky hill in 2nd gear and 4lo, I'd approach it in 4lo and 1st gear. 2nd gear can lead to the engine lugging a bit and potentially dying. I prefer to keep the RPM's a bit higher on a ride like that. I DO NOT LIKE restarting my engine on a STEEP incline while offcamber.
If you need to haul a boat, you MAY want to consider one of the newer TJ Unlimited's which have the longer wheelbase, higher towing capacity, and the 4.0 engine.
Feel free to ask any other questions you'd like.
#16 of 63 Re: 4 cylinder vs. 6 [erickpl]
Aug 02, 2007 (7:44 am)
An excellent reply from erickpl, which includes something I left out and bears repeating:
"Manual transmission is the ONLY way I'd have gotten a 4 cyl"
#17 of 63 Re: 4 cylinder vs. 6 [mac24]
Aug 02, 2007 (1:28 pm)
Flattery always helps.
#18 of 63 Re: 4 cylinder vs. 6 [erickpl]
Sep 08, 2007 (4:48 am)
Hello all, just found this site, not of the email generation. Here are some pointers. I agree with a lot of the "beware of" comments that have been mentioned. The wrecked jeep is a no purchase unless you have your own shop. There will be a lot of work on that one. It was a roll over, big question is high speed or trail. If trail you can fix it cosmetically. High speed no way.
As far as the CJ vs wrangler (notice not capitalized) That is preference. The CJ is easier to modify mechanically, less emissions control so going for a V8 is easy. V8 options I would go with a chevy II 350ci. The 304 is a good motor and I would purchase any jeep with it as long as the motor is sound. The kicker is this, it will cost you more to rebuild the 304 than to build a 350 with all the correct mods to place in the jeep.
The wrangler is a good product and generally all around sound vehicle. The 4.0 is bullet proof, they learned that back in the 60's. If mileage is a concern go for the 4.0 or any in line 6 cylinder version.
I will say as far as suspension the wranglers do have us CJers beat. As far as a stock product they made some good changes.
I would not purchase the 9" CJ. It is a problem waiting to surface. It also sounds to me that you have a limited jeep experience. That 9" lift is a bear to handle. As far as the pulling it is a simple solution, drop the Jeep 5" and it will probably fly straight. Anybody who goes over 4" is an idiot, unless you are building for a specific reason.
Off-roading is a slow moving art form of driving. You could build the most radical machine and have a stock 4cyl pass you on the trail because the other knows how to drive. The key is not power but torque AT THE WHEELS.
Rust: look at the chassis as mentioned earlier. If you find surface rust no biggie. If it has rusted through the frame anywhere but on the very front or very rear then do not purchase. A good way to fix the problem is POR15. Simply brush it on and it will cease the rust. Good product. And it will keep you busy over the winter months.
I hope my blabbering helped and you got a chuckle or two. If down in NC come by the shop. I am never there.
PS I like the little car thingies.
#20 of 63 How many miles are too many?
Oct 14, 2007 (7:01 am)
I'd like to buy a used TJ with a 6-cylinder and an automatic transmission. How many miles are too many? And does anyone have any experience with buying Jeeps from CarMax? Thanks
Nov 18, 2007 (11:02 pm)
in the future, the next year or two, i would like to purchase a Jeep Wrangler. probably used and probably a standard. however i know nothing about them execpt that i really want one. what should i know before hand? is it any different than buying any other vehicle? i've only bought cars before. and what is a YJ, CJ, TJ? as you can tell i'm new to this! but would appreciate any help, Thanks!
#22 of 63 Re: first Jeep [ajeepforme]
Jan 02, 2008 (10:18 am)
CJ, YJ, TJ, etc are all model designations from jeep for the variations.
CJ - older style up to about 1985 IIRC.
YJ - 86-96
TJ - 97-06 models (what I drive)
JK - 07-now
When looking at a Jeep, consider if you plan on offroading it - as that may affect which version you go after. I personally wouldn't go any older than a TJ, especially if you want reliability for a daily driver.
If you plan to offroad, consider the axle types (Dana 44's have a metal plug on the back axle for draining vs a rubber one and are considerably stronger). Strength is key for bigger tires, gears, lockers, etc.
Some like the hard top, some love the soft top. Mine only has the soft top and steel half doors. My upper doors/windows are fabric. There are:
Hard tops / soft tops
full doors / half doors
Safari / bikini tops to cover the cabin, but have no windows at all (I run one in the summer with no doors at all.
If you tell me what your intended activities are with it, I could better help you. A 2001-2006 TJ (Sport trim) with hard and soft tops is an EXCELLENT base to start from, whichever path you choose.
#23 of 63 Re: first Jeep [erickpl]
Jan 02, 2008 (4:39 pm)
One thing to consider on the later TJs(may be 03 and newer?) it that it they have a lower hanging gas tank which makes the rear diff oil change or any other work in that tight spot unnecessarily painful. I had to get rid of my Rockcrusher diff cover in the back for this very reason.