Last post on Feb 27, 2012 at 8:06 AM
You are in the Chrysler Concorde
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Chrysler Concorde, Auto Repair, Electrical, Sedan
#11 of 45 Re: Electrical problems or ghost in 2000 Concorde [mondo3]
Sep 27, 2007 (12:42 pm)
Hello, I had a 1990 chrysler new yorker 5th ave several years ago with the exact problem. It turned out to be the ignition switch. I had to laugh when I read about the ghosts because that is exactly what it seemed like!
Also, it wound up having to have a new motor put into it & luckily I had purchased an extended warranty so it was covered. I now have a 1998 chrysler concorde lxi that has 56,000 miles & the body is in showroom condition & it too needs a new motor. (of course the warranty expired 50K miles)I was told by the service tech that a new motor costs $5K which is more than the car is worth since it is 9 years old. Chrysler was no help when I contacted them. I googled chryser complaints & there were several web sites with customer complaints with the same problems on concordes & 300C's, some still new & under warranty & chrysler also refused to honor those warranties saying it was the customers fault. Go to www.mychryslersucks.com as it is the one with the most complaints. I know I will never own another chrysler!!
Thanks for letting me vent
#12 of 45 help 1995 concord
Nov 12, 2007 (9:15 am)
i will be driving and with lights,radio,heater or air on wipers and all at once i loose transmission gears so i pull over shut car off and restart and car works great what could be the promblem does not do it all the time
#13 of 45 either electrical... or i screwed up the brakes...
Nov 13, 2007 (6:43 pm)
yesterday i finally figured out how to change my brake pads on a 97 concorde lx..and since then the parking brake like near my speedometer turns off and then on for a while and then just randomly turns off....could i have done something to the brakes? they work fine to me...bled them and everything....
one thing it could possibly be is that the resevoir for the brake fluid isnt all the way filled up...but when i take the cap off it still has some in it. would i need to fill it up to the max line possibly?
also does the same thing with my brights near the speedometer...ever since i changed the bulb the light stays on all the time (which i did that maybe 3-4 months ago)
#14 of 45 not an electrical problem...but...
Nov 13, 2007 (6:54 pm)
ok....well...a couple of problems.. when i changed my front brake pads on my 97 concorde, all went semi smooth (minus the 4 hours it took me to figure out how to do it), all except for the screws and bolts on my car. for instance the two screws that hold the caliper to the rotor are severely rusted (pretty much all of them on the car are) and i really need to change my back pads (diskbrakes) but one of the screws that i mention will not come off for the life of me. also it is basically stripped almost.
so ya basically my question is that ive tried wd40 and that didnt work..not even the right size socket or regular wrench could do the trick, so what should i do if i didnt want to take it to the shop to have them do it? (keep in mind that im limited on tools, so if i need to get someone with a compressor socket, lemme know)
Dec 16, 2007 (12:48 pm)
Hey everyone! I have a 2000 chrysler concorde and recently the battery light has come on... Swaped out the altenator and checked the battery and it still registers a code. I wanted to know is there a fused link anywhere that would keep the car from keeping a charge? Please help me with this if you have any information!
#16 of 45 1998 Concorde doesn't start in the cold
Jan 15, 2008 (5:46 pm)
I have had and on going problem of my Concorde not starting in the cold. The engine cranks but does not kick over, but when the weather warms up it starts. I had the cam sensor and the crank sensor replaced 6 months ago. It ran fine until a month ago, took it to the dealer and it started for them so they couldn't tell me what happened.
#17 of 45 1998 Chrysler Concorde Gas Gauge Question
Jul 08, 2008 (10:51 am)
I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with a little over 100,000 original miles on the engine. A couple of months ago, while driving, the gas gauge needle dropped down causing the ding sound that the tank is empty but the tank is not empty. I filled the tank up full, the needle did not drop again until the tank got down to 3/4 tank, then it continued drop off and on until the needle showed it was below 1/2 tank. I took it to the garage, the mechanic stated it did not do this strange thing for him but he cleaned the connectors in the wiring under the front driver's seat. It was a couple of days after that when that it started dropping again. What is this? what needs to be fixed? is something to do with the float? float sensor? Everyone is scratching their heads on this one.
Jul 20, 2008 (2:24 pm)
I replaced my rack & pinion & in the process I broke the clockspring. I replaced the clockspring & now the air bag light is on. My cruise control works & all lights. Is there a way get rid of the air bag light without using a scanner?
#19 of 45 '99 Concorde from HELL!!
Nov 09, 2008 (2:07 pm)
I had the same problem with the interior lights flashing, then I couldn't turn them off, so I took out all the bulbs so my battery wouldn't be drained. Yesterday I was driving and all of a sudden lost power, including my steering. I coasted to the side of the road. My headlights and dashboard still worked. (I do have plenty of gas in tank.) I waited a minute or so, then restarted the car. I drove it home but now I don't know what to do. Why would the car lose power while driving? This is the worst piece of crap car I have ever owned!
#20 of 45 I lost a lot.
Nov 19, 2008 (5:11 pm)
I lost air bags, power windows and heater control. I think it may be related to the ignition switch? the key on engine running fuse works, but no power in the fuse box for the above mentioned components. Any ideas?