Last post on Jan 20, 2011 at 3:30 PM
You are in the Ford Windstar
What is this discussion about?
Ford Windstar, Van
#10 of 16 Re: Should I buy one? [leesanray]
Jun 18, 2009 (2:28 pm)
We sold our 98 windstar this week. It had 152500 miles on it. We bought it in May of 2001 with 81000 miles on it for $9000.
While we owned it (8+ years and 71000 miles) we spent less than $1200 on repairs
(at our trusted local mechanic).
Our goal with our cars is to keep them until they are about 12 years old. We decided that now was the right time to trade it in because we were near our 12 year target, had a bunch of maintenance items needed (tires, shocks, struts, brake rotors), and it seemed a favorable time to purchase a replacement van.
For someone considering a Windstar purchase, I say go for it with the following restrictions:
1. Go 1998 or newer.
2. Look elsewhere if you are going to tow anything.
3. Look elsewhere if you have a heavy accelerator foot.
4. Avoid the 3.0 liter six unless you are never going to go up hills.
5. Get a good price and/or a good warranty because transmission problems are fairly common.
After you buy it:
1. Change the transmission fluid every 24k miles.
2. Spray all the door locks, door switches, hatch locks, hood locks, and all hinges with silicone spray once per year. It will save you a lot of problems.
#11 of 16 Re: Should I buy one? [leesanray]
Jun 29, 2009 (11:55 am)
I agree with Lee. We are up to 151,000 miles on the '98 windstar and it runs right along down the highway, a/c works and no transmission or head gasket problems - knock on wood. I know someone who got 215,000 on theirs. I expect mine would go 225-250k miles.
You can get some real bargains on used ones if you don't mind that it is not as 'refined' as an Oddessy or Sienna. Lotta value without much downside.
My only regret is it now qualifies for cash for clunkers incentive, so I will probably be trading in shortly. If I miss it, I may later pick up a used one.
I would add another caveat:
Run a car fax report before buying and make sure that it was not in a rental fleet.
#12 of 16 I would have to say nay
Jul 21, 2009 (9:05 am)
2002 Windstar bought new.
1) Oil pan cracked almost immediately due to road hazard. Ford refused to replace under warranty. Pan is CAST ALUMINUM!!! Cast metals are brittle. Oil pan is exposed to road hazards so a rock or other road debris can kick up and hit it. Would not have happened to a steel oil pan.
2) Intake manifold gasket had to be replaced. Mechanic noted that dealer had kit in stock, indicating it is a common problem (no recall). This happened just after the warranty expired, so that's an outrage.
3) Brake light switch died and could not start car. This happened at about 80,000.
4) Alternator replaced a couple of weeks after brake light switch.
5) At 108,000, rear axle housing cracked 3/4 of the way through. Mechanic stated wheels could have fallen off if it cracked 100% because the only thing holding them on would have been a bushing. Interestingly, the axle housing was in stock at the dealer, indicating another common issue.
6) Electrical problems - door ajar indicator incorrectly lit. Battery light, ABS & Emergency Brake lights lit for no apparent reason. They come on and off as you drive.
7) Transmission reportedly (by mechanic) shot at 108,000 - trans "chatters". Feels like you are running over a rumble strip. This is common when slowly accelerating or decelerating at between 35 - 45 mph in city driving. There is also a secondary "bump" - I would not call it "chatter", it's more like hitting 1 or 2 potholes when there are no potholes. Again, commonly at 35-45, but also at higher speeds, such as 65 and going up hills. Symptom usually associated with torque converter, but they say the whole thing is shot.
Many of the same problems can found all over the net. Buy if you dare.
Jul 23, 2009 (12:16 pm)
We have had ours (a '99) for only a few months, but have been servicing it for the original owner for the last 5 years. She's had her share of problems with it, needing tie rod ends, and EGR valve, and DPFE sensor and finally (when I got it) a transmission. But she never did any maintenance to it, other than oil changes. She didn't fix any of those items other than the tie rod ends just because she was saving up for a Toyota Rav-4 (didn't want a minivan anymore), so the day the transmission went out, she cheerfully skipped down to the Toyota dealership.
I got the van, completely fixed everything on it and have been happily driving it for the last several months. Love the space in it. Kids love the auxilary sound system in it.
I do have to second what leesanray stated regarding flushing the transmission frequently and lubing the locks and hinges.
#14 of 16 Windstar Problems - No more Fords
Jul 29, 2009 (4:50 am)
Bought my 2000 Windstar with 27K miles in 2002 and has been nothing but trouble. Cracked intake manifold, eats rotors, water pump and aluminum water hoses on top of engine, fuel pump, ac doesn't work. Currently has 116K miles and they want $800 to replace the fuel pump, I was told the part is $350 alone. A/C another $1200 to fix and the trans needs replacing.
Van was always maintained, always used synthetic oil and changed the filter each time. By this time next week I hope to have my Honda Odyssey.... Wife already got rid of her Ford for a Camry.
#15 of 16 windstar half radio
Aug 08, 2009 (3:59 pm)
when radio plays only drivers side speakers work from time to time the others would come on but that stoppped
#16 of 16 Ratling on turning steering of parked car and whistling sound from PS pump
Jan 20, 2011 (3:30 pm)
My windstar 2000, ok otherwise, no bubbling, no pulling, no tire problem no sound no accelration problem no electrica problem. But since I changed my serpentine fan belt a whistling sound comes most likely from the power steering pump. The sound stops after firve minutes
Even when parked on turning the steering wheel right or left ratelling sound comed from the left side of the wheel the sound stops after 10 minutes drive and then in the whole day there will be no sound. I changed the front mounting seat and the broken bearing.