Last post on Sep 23, 2013 at 5:14 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Liberty, Diesel, SUV
#177 of 186 Re: How many miles? [kjoe1]
Jan 17, 2013 (2:30 pm)
I was told by the diesel tech with proper oil and sensible driving the engine should go 300,000 before any significant work is needed. Not counting the timing belt and water pump. I had all that done on mine at 120k. The water pump is very important as some aftermarkets will not hold up. There are horror stories on the net about them blowing seals after only 30k. Spend a bit more and get the mopar part.
The transmission is the biggest variable depending on what you pull with it and how often you change fluid. And what fluid you use. Should be good to 200,000 since it is the heavy duty version. They found out early on the torque convertor wasn't tough enough for all that torque so recalls were made on that.
The EGR is demonstrating it is only good for about 100-120K. Mine only cost $270 at the dealer. Don't let them over charge for that and make certain they stick to the manpower hours or they will whack you for labor. If you are slender and a bit agile you can do it at home but it can really try your patience as it is a tight spot.
All the other stuff is about the same as for a gas powered Libby.
Be careful out there and keep on chuggin............
#178 of 186 turbo charger replacement time
Jan 18, 2013 (6:48 am)
I have an estimate of 4 and 1/2 hours replacement time for the turbo unit. does that sound right?
#179 of 186 Re: biodiesel in the liberty 2.8 CRD [bdpro]
Jul 23, 2013 (5:28 am)
Interesting what you said about the fuel gauge sending unit. I have run 100% biodiesel about half the time in my 06 Sprinter. It has a 2.7 liter Mercedes engine with 70,000 miles on it. I put in an auxiliary fuel tank with an original equipment primary pump with fuel gauge sending unit. The sending unit failed after only 2 or 3 tanks of fuel. The gauge stuck at about 3/4 full. Then recently the sending unit in the original tank failed in a similar way. The sending units are $400 to $600. I ordered a Scangauge II which is supposed to tell you how much fuel has been used. It was about $160. I have had no other problems using biodiesel.
#180 of 186 Re: biodiesel in the liberty 2.8 CRD [dalemonroe]
Jul 24, 2013 (3:19 pm)
I have been using biodiesel for about five years. I don't get it every tankful, but when I do it is usually about 10-15% judging by how much dino diesel is still in the tank. In the winter I faithfully add Howes diesel treatment to prevent jelling and water problems to every tank. In the summer I add it maybe every third tank. It could be the Howes is protecting the fuel sending gauge but I can't be certain. The Liberty now has 140,000 miles.
#181 of 186 CRD Engine Now invisible coolant loss
Sep 23, 2013 (8:55 am)
Since buying this car new, I have gone through many engine problems. 4 egr valves, now a new egr cooler. The repair dollars have been stacking up. with 105K miles, I have accumulated about $5000 in ongoing engine stuff. Now, after getting the timing belt replaced at 105K, I am losing coolant mysteriously. I have been consistently losing coolant somewhere but NOT leaking or dripping anywhere. The last mechanic replaced the egr cooler and a new egr valve. I am convinced now that there must be a head gasket or warped head maybe?
Anyone got any ideas????? I will lose two gallons a week easily.
I actually did love the car, but now I will possibly be spending about 5K on an engine with 105K miles. A new engine is about 6K. I am at a loss as to who can fix this thing. Dealer or outside shop. It is hard to find anyone to work on it. I dont know if I can actually afford to sell it.
#182 of 186 Re: CRD Engine Now invisible coolant loss [chipj]
Sep 23, 2013 (9:17 am)
sooland going no where, can very easily be a head gasket. If so, you should have white smoke coming out of your exhaust on excelleration.
Before doing anything else however, replace your radiator cap. If it is not sealing you will loose water through evaporation and if that is the case, it is a heck of a lot cheaper.
Pur a Provent system on your crd to cut down on engine problems, it will take alot of the gunk out of the smog set up that causes turbo and EGR failure.
Best of luck: Bob
#183 of 186 Re: CRD Engine Now invisible coolant loss [unclebob9]
Sep 23, 2013 (10:47 am)
I have 140M on my CRD ..and have very little problem with anything. I DID however have the coolant loss problem much the same as you are having. I took it to the ONLY Jeep dealer I trust to work on this engine and he found that I had a very small leak in my water pump! I also could not see where the coolant was going ...but evidently it would leak out as I was running the engine and because it was in such small amounts, it was evaporating before getting anything wet! I was also told to change my radiator cap ...which I did ..but in my case that didn't help ..but I agree it's what you should do first of all ...it never hurts to have a new radiator cap! I always cringe when I read of owners that have so many problems with their CRD ....as I have such good luck! (Knock on wood) ...I hope you find the problem and it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg!
#184 of 186 Re: CRD Engine Now invisible coolant loss [chipj]
Sep 23, 2013 (1:27 pm)
I have no idea what an egr cooler is. My mechanic has never even mentioned that. One thing that can help take a bit of stress off the EGR is to replace the oil condenser. It sits right on top of the engine slightly toward the back. Mine started leaking because it was clogged. I replaced it and shortly after, the EGR started showing faults and it had to be replaced. But I got almost 100,000 miles out of it. The condenser is a lot cheaper then EGR's, and you can do it yourself in about five minutes.
Coolant might be the water pump as one other mentioned.
I am going to stick my neck out and suggest you have the water pump replaced when you have the timing belt done. The labor is only a fraction more because they have tear the same things apart to get at it.
I'm not sure why you would be looking at replacing an engine with only 105K miles. that engine should easily go to 300,00 before needing new rings or any machine work.
Make certain you are using approved FULL synthetic oil. It is so much cleaner and with that pesky EGR system you need the oil as clean as possible. Don't worry about changing brands so long as they have the ratings listed in the owners manual. Buy what is on sale and change it at least every 6K.
Maybe it helps the engine as well as fuel, I add fuel treatment at least every other tank in the summer and every tank in the winter. That keeps water out of the system and must help clean injectors because mine now has 145K and it runs better then when new.
I hope you can find a good mechanic who goes to diesel school on a regular basis. Brydens, the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealer in Beloit, WI has a guy who really knows his stuff. He did my timing belt and water pump and it cost $1200. I've heard horror stories about dealers charging $2-3,000 for that.
Sep 23, 2013 (4:32 pm)
I got rid of the jeep and bought a brand new car Mazda with a 6 yr. warranty
NO MORE PROBLEMS
Sep 23, 2013 (5:14 pm)
I sure hope that little car is good to you.
Best of luck.