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Vans & Minivans Chevy Venture Chevrolet Venture Heating / Cooling
66 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 3:24 PM
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Replying to: gmz1 (Feb 20, 2008 5:24 pm) The way to check the operation of the switch is to disconnect the plug from the switch to the blower resistor at the resistor and then use a test light or multimeter to see that the switch is sending 12V to the resistor in each of the respective fan speed positions. Personally, if I needed to replace the control head I'd get one at a junkyard, while I don't think they're trying to rip you off, $ 600.00 is pretty steep. Its an easy install for the DIYer... I can post later to let you know which pins to test with each speed as I don't have the diagram with me. In the mean time - make sure that the plug going to the resistor is completely inserted - had trouble when I replaced mine and it turned out that the plug had not fully seated. The resistor is located on the pass side firewall right behind the blower - its got the footprint of a credit card. Will post the pin details later |
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OK here goes - pull the connector from the blower motor resistor - as you're looking at the plug with the"slots " which clip the wire to the resistor at the top... The connector looks something like this as you look at it: ________________________________ _____!____!___!______________!____!____!______ !__________________________________________! !_____!____!______!_____!_______!_____!_______! !__G__!_F_!___E__!__D__!___C___!__B_!___A__! !_____!____!______!_____!_______!___ _!_______!! I filled in the letters for clarity - making this diagram was a pain!!!  E is the ground - touch one probe to it from your test light or multimeter to it for each test and follow this order - each terminal corresponds to a blower setting. You should get about 12 volts for each test (ignition on - engine not running) The blower resistor then steps down the voltage to get the blower to spin at the appropriate speed. A+ E = SPEED SETTING #2 B+E= SPEED #1 C+E= SPEED #4 D+E= SPEED # 3 F+E = SPEED # 5 (HIGH) G IS HOT AT ALLTIMES YOU SHOULD ALWAYS GET 12 v HERE If you don't get 12v at each when you change the switch to the corresponding setting and test then the switch is most likely the problem (assuming that the connector at the back of the switch is attached securely and that the wires are in good condition) If all get 12 volts when you switch to them then the blower resistor is most likely NG. This gives you enough info to test it - let me know how you make out...
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This is not a constant problem, but when the AC is on the rear vents will put out heat. This is an 02 Venture. I've read that there's a "flap" that's not working correctly. Has anyone else seen this, and can I fix it myself? Thanks
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Replying to: ddecker5 (Feb 21, 2008 9:48 am) I've not had this problem before but here's some thoughts: To access the "flap" that you mention - remove the rear left quarter trim panel - behind it is the blower and the mode actuator (controls the "flap"). The actuator is vacuum powered. There's really only a couple of things that could go wrong back there... First I'd check to see that it is getting vacuum - start the engine and remove the hoses from the actuator (its the round thing about the size of a fuel filter with 2 hoses attached. With the engine running you should be getting vacuum to at least one if not both if them. I'd be willing to bet that you're not getting vacuum. If you are getting vacuum, check the actuator and the stuff its attached to for smooth movement, maybe its hung up on something or perhaps the actuator is shot. If you're not getting vacuum, see if you can hear vacuum with the engine running - these vac hoses get brittle and break from time to time. If everything you can see looks good, after that its tough to find the problem. You'll have to do some Dick Tracy work to figure out where the hose is routed and where it gets its vacuum supply because I'm not sure. Check under the hood for a vacuum leak or a vac hose that is broken or has fallen off. The other possibility is that the vac hose is plugged - I had one of them once in the front. Its something you can fix yourself if you're patient in trying to figure out where the leak/blockage is - Just for reference - the vac hose at the actuator goes to the overhead console control which in turn gets its supply from a vac header somewhere under the hood - I'm just not sure where. Good luck - post back with your hopeful success....
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Replying to: skpicky (Feb 14, 2008 5:26 am) |
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Replying to: skpicky (Feb 14, 2008 5:26 am) The wiring harness goes under the carpet under the passenger side door area. This seems to be a place where salty water from winter roads collects and drains out from under the carpet. In my van, the wiring harness is not protected from the salt water, which got into the splices and rotted them out. The harness seems to lie right in this channel. I replaced all the splices and I got my power locks and windows back. I re-sealed the splices and wrapped them with cable coax di-electric to ensure get the wire harness up out of the drain channel. |
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Replying to: 442dude (Feb 21, 2008 11:39 am) This is a real beeeyotch to replace. You need to take out the blower motor first. The rear screws are almost unreachable. Best to just back them off a couple of turns and then pull the old one out. Then you can slide the new one back in. I lived with this for about 2 years until yesterday, when the battery died because the fan was stuck in the full position. I tried replacing the heater control like this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=360028990803 but it didn't do any good. I think the water might be coming in from around the top of the windshield, as I notice there is a bit of water now in the dome light somehow, and the rubber around the window isn't as tight as it might have been one time. Hope that helps...
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Replying to: sh00tr (Mar 01, 2008 2:50 pm) Lets think about this one for a minute - if I think out loud and type maybe we can figure it out together - it might look like random thoughts and that is precisely what it is...(and yes...the resistor is a pain to replace, my back still isn't the same from last summer when I did mine) So you replaced the resistor and now all 5 speeds work...but you can't turn the fan off? Am i reading this correctly? Or you replaced the resistor because you couldn't turn it off and now you have all 5 speeds and you're trying to figure out how to not have this happen again? I'm not completely convinced that water that you think is coming from the windshield was the cause of the demise of the resistor - these resistors are known to fail even in the best of conditions, it wasn't a smart idea to mount it right near the fan on their part...not that its not possible that its water of course. There is one pin that's always got 12 volts on it no matter where the switch is set - it powers the blower relay. If the relay is stuck closed - you'll have nothing but high speed at all times - even with engine off if I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly...Is the carpet wet on the pass side? I know you've seen water in the dome light, you said that... Did you confirm that the blower switch is working correctly with a multimeter? I'm wondering what is going on when you turn the switch to off - a multimeter can tell us what's going on...A couple of posts previous there's a really poor diagram that I created to tell how to test the switch & resistor. Its a small circuit so finding the faulty component should be pretty easy... I know I'm shotgunning the problem at this point- post back and let me know where you're at right now and we'll figure it out...just typed in some random thoughts to get the thinking process started...I'm only a mechanic when there's a shade tree and some beer around but I know that you and I are smarter than our Ventures - I'll be happy to walk you through diagnosing and fixing the problem...I'll look for your reply...
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Replying to: 442dude (Mar 02, 2008 7:51 am) 1) High and off only; positions 2,3,4 were all "off" 5 was 5 ...I had that for about 2 years..., 2) More seriously, it started shorting to on/High only regardless of the position of the console switch, and regardless of ignition on or off or set to accessory. This progression was very problematic as the only way to avoid killing the battery was to disconnect it! Not ideal as it's been -20C (-28F) the last couple of days. I confirmed the blower switch was working by testing continuity for all 5 positions.They were all good. I also have two spare ones here if anyone wants one cheap (one for a 99 the other for a 2000...) The factory resistor showed signs of either burn off or corrosion. The green coating had flecked off in a strange sort of way; I think it was water damage. http://fhlsim.com/images/7692.JPG http://fhlsim.com/images/7693.JPG
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