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Geo Metro Exterior and Body Work

14 messages,  Last post on Jan 20, 2013 at 10:52 AM

You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Exterior, Hatchback

Messages Page 2 of 2

#5 of 14 I usually say... by pf_flyer HOST

Sep 28, 2008 (5:20 pm)

... it's not the years, but the mileage. True, 76K is not a terribly large amount of miles for a 12 year old car, but the car hasn't been sitting in a garage not being run either. And that's a spot that's pretty exposed to the elements.
 
Just on first glance that would seem like a spot that would cost more to fix than it's worth, but I'd want to get something more expert than my two cents on that.
 
That mount for the front end of the lower control arm looks a bit precarious! Seems a shame since the little bit of the body work that shows in the one photo shows no signs of "cancer" around the fender.

#6 of 14 Re: Rust in a critical spot! [yomoma] by brokestudent2

Sep 29, 2008 (12:14 am)

Replying to: yomoma (Sep 28, 2008 3:13 pm)
It is the common problem with these cars. I live in Michigan and my 98 Metro has 80K on it. I have been dousing the A-frame with used motor oil and old grease and I have had no problems. Then again, I've only had it since June 2007, and the car was in Michigan and Ohio before that, so I don't know what "trick" the previous two owners used. Barely any rust. Then again, I don't drive it too much in the winter.
 
The cost "repair" (although "replacement" is the more appropriate word) will exceed the value of your car.
 
I'm not sure what else you can do with low mileage. If you have the time and a friend (and yourself perhaps) who is adept in body work, you work on it yourself. But, it's a tedious job.

#7 of 14 How do you prevent frame rust?? by brokestudent2

Oct 05, 2008 (3:39 pm)

I am afraid my practice of dousing just a couple areas of the suspension arm (prone to rust...connecting to the control arm) is not going to be enough. How else can I prevent rust? I live in Michigan and I will not be doing a lot of driving this winter (maybe two days a week). What's ideal? This car has 80K and I'd like to keep it awhile. It's a 1998 hatchback.

#8 of 14 2000 Metro Sedan Body Needed by geo4deke

Mar 29, 2009 (3:12 pm)

I have a 2000 Chevy Metro Sedan with less than 50,000 miles. Recently spun out and wrecked the body to where it is not worth repairing. I am looking to purchase a similar metro with a bad engine and or transmission that I can swap out the engine and transmission from my car. Located in the Sacramento Area.

#9 of 14 Rusty rocker panel by lbroughton

May 26, 2009 (6:31 am)

I have a 98 Metro and the driver side rocker panel is rusted out. I cannot find a replacement. Does anyone know where I can Get a replacement panel. Thanks Leon

#10 of 14 Hood Replacement on a 1992 Metro by ulul54

Feb 18, 2011 (10:58 am)

I have a 1992 Geo Metro LXI convertible with 130K miles on the odometer. I've owned it since 1999 and it still runs like a top & looks great. Unfortunately, due to a failed safety latch, I now need to replace the hood of the car. Can anyone tell me what years & models shared the same hood as my '92 LXI convertible? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks. Lou

#12 of 14 Convertible top weather stripping by mona47

Jun 26, 2010 (11:29 am)

I have recently put a new top on my "91" Geo Metro LSI.
It did not come with any weather stripping. Chevrolet quit making it 3 years ago. What kind of weather stripping can I use. My body man is looking but he has had no luck yet. I can only drive it when weather is good. Never up. Please any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

#13 of 14 Re: Convertible top weather stripping [mona47] by stayingblessed

Aug 18, 2011 (8:10 am)

Replying to: mona47 (Jun 26, 2010 11:29 am)
Do you still have your convertible? I just found your post and can help with the weather stripping issue.
These roofs are very easy to seal if you get 1/4" thick by 2 inch wide ruber with adhesive on one side. place the on the plat that attaches to the roof not the frame of the car. make sure you cut out where the latch comes thru so that it doesn't bind.
when closing the roof tight make sure the bar in the back that you snap to is loose. Do NOT have this snapped when try to close your top. once the top is closed then snap the back support bar in place it makes if very easy to open and close, plus it keeps your roof from becoming to loose.
We did this to our 91 convertible geo metro and have not had any leaks. We are in Florida and have after noon storms daily.
Hope this helps.

#14 of 14 the battle of the metro by ronnieredline

Jan 20, 2013 (10:52 am)

i have a 98 metro, it is a salvage vehicle.
i bought it with something like 60,000 on it.
it needed new bumper,grille pass fender etc...
anyway, it is a great little car, nice run about for me.
i kept going through brakes even replacing everything, so i let it sit for about 2 yrs.
well i found the drivers side frame rotted out, needless to say , so does every one else.
BUT i researched it.
guess what i found??????
the charcoal canister sucks fumes from the gas tank, well when the canister goes bad or saturates and cant nuetralize the gas fumes from the tank, so it puts out sulfur fumes from the gas fumes from the gas tank.
well when the canister fails, the fumes in our fuel conatains sulfur, when sulfur is in a vapor form mixed with other contaminates in the fuel it makes sulfuric acid fumes ! ! !
why does this have anything to do with the frame rot?
because chevy put the exaust tube from the canister INTO the frame in a hole???
its a factory hole and they did it!
now sulfur is heavier so it falls down and condenses in the frame around the rack and pinion steering frame or hole.
it also has a passage way to get to the passenger side frame as well.
THIS IS WHY MINE ROTTED OUT if you reseach it, the frames are rotting from the inside out, not the outside in ! ! !
what ive done is rebuilt the drivers side.
then to end it all, ive plugged all the holes in the frame, drilled 1" holes in various places and used a funnel and poured in the gas tank sealer called red kote. then installed plastic body plugs.
this seals alll welds and holes from the inside, then when your done, pull the plugs and let it drain back into the can. this seals all the insides.
dont forget to plug the 2 small holes on either side of the frame rail past the front seats, tilt the car up on a jack and it will all run out the back frame rails if you want to.
this will encapsulate all the rust and anything inside, thus it stops rust dead in its tracks.
any questions please email me.
look at your own metros, i bet the charcoal canister tube emties into the frame on the drivers side like mine does.
what id like to say to the engineer who decided to do this huh?
ronnieredline done for now.

Messages Page 2 of 2

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