Last post on Oct 13, 2011 at 2:39 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Fuel System, Oil, Fuel Efficiency (MPG), Sedan, Wagon
#19 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [paulman]
Sep 08, 2008 (1:37 pm)
Transfer case.... the center differential? What is it, auto trans or manual? It is easy either way, just a different point of entry for the two types, as the manual's center differential shares its fluid with the transmission.
#20 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [xwesx]
Sep 13, 2008 (7:38 am)
Sorry, I've had a few Ford trucks and it's called a transfer case, as you know. It's an automatic and the car seems to "hop" a bit when I make slow, sharp turns. It was fixed last time by the mechanic addind fluid to the center diff. I want to do it myself. Do you know how to add fluid?
#21 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [paulman]
Sep 15, 2008 (6:20 pm)
On an automatic there is 3 places to check for fluid.
Front Diffy, which is the PASSENGER SIDE behind engine, in engine bay.
Transmission/center diffy, which is DRIVER SIDE behind engine, in engine bay.
Rear Diffy, which is in the back on the actual diffy.
Front and rear Diffy takes 70-90 GL5 Gear Oil
Trans takes ATF (I suggest Amsoil or Redline High Temp ATF)
#22 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [paisan]
Sep 19, 2008 (6:03 pm)
Thanks so much for the free know-how.
Just to confirm that I know what you're saying: Even in automatics the center diffy and the trany share fluid? That is, if the trany fluid level is fine, then the center diffy level is fine as well.
And so, I'll check this but I think it may be more than a fluid issue.
I had the car at a trany shop last year b/c it was doing the same thing. All he said was that he added fluid. I recall him saying something like "the "hop" is caused by the 4x4 being engaged when it shouldn't be". Could fluid level cause this?
Part of the problem is I don't know how all-time 4x4 works. Is it always front wheel drive except when slippage is sensed, and the the 4x4 kicks in? Could my car be improperly locked in 4x4 mode? That is, could the center diffy be broken? How would I know?
Sorry for all the Qs.
#23 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [paulman]
Sep 22, 2008 (7:15 pm)
Sorry for the late reply.
On an automatic subie of that vintage there are clutch packs that vary the power between the front diffy and the rear driveshaft. As a differential of speed is sensed F/R the clutch packs (electronically controlled) will tighten up and send power front or rear. They are similar to the clutch packs found in the automatic trans and therefore share the same fluid (your trans takes about 9-12 quarts of fluid).
Hope this helps.
#24 of 48 Re: 97 Outback Sport adding transfer case fluid [paisan]
Oct 12, 2008 (2:35 pm)
The fluid was low and I added amost a quart. Problem is much better. There's still a slight hopping in slow sharp (to wheel lock) turns. I suspect a little damage to the clutch pad in 6 mos of low fluid. Thanks again.
#25 of 48 Wiper Fluid Won't Spray
Nov 14, 2008 (9:49 am)
I just bought this used Outback, 01, very clean runs great. One thing, the sprayer doesn't work on the wipers. I check the fuse- it looks good. Pulled a hose under the hood, nothing coming out, so I assume it's the "motor" or another connection. I can't seem to disconnect the two wires I see connected to this. Any thoughts on this. The fuse looked old, but it wasn't blown, that is certain.
#26 of 48 Re: Wiper Fluid Won't Spray [bigdog62]
Nov 14, 2008 (10:11 am)
It is probably the washer motor. These are pretty easy to replace. At the bottom front of the washer fluid bottle are two small motors, one for the front and one for the rear. You can tell which one is which by following the tubing leading from them.
Remove the bottle by removing the top two bolts and freeing the assorted tubing from clamps on the side. The wires are a little difficult to pull out, but come off easier when the reservoir is lifted up. Pull the motor out and replace with the new one. It would be a good idea to replace the rubber grommet around it also. These little motors run about 40 to 60 dollars.
#27 of 48 Need help with water pump replacement
Dec 11, 2008 (6:56 am)
Hi, I have a 1995 Legacy AWD, I need to replace the water pump.
Anybody have any tips to make this a smother operation. I have the service manual, it looks like quite a job. I need to get a compression gauge to set the engine at top dead center first. I'm going to change the timing belt also.
Any thoughts would be great
#28 of 48 Re: Need help with water pump replacement [dgarlepp]
Dec 11, 2008 (10:14 am)
Why do you need to set the engine at TDC?
When I replaced my water pump, at about 177,000 miles, it took about four hours to do the task. I also had assistance, but we were working in a shop with which we were unfamiliar, so finding tools took some extra effort/time. I never made any special effort to set mine to TDC, and had no problems with it any of the five times I had the timing belt off the car.
Replace the thermostat while you are in there, and also your upper and lower radiator hoses if they are original or very old. The job is fairly straight forward, but it does take some time to dig down to the pump, put everything back together, and then refill the cooling system. Be CAREFUL with the timing cover bolts and the water pump bolts. They are small (10 mm heads?) and are not very forgiving when it comes to torque....