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Vans & Minivans Chevy Venture Chevy Venture overheating problem
110 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 11:24 AM
You are in the Chevy Venture Forum. Your Host is Karens
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| I just went out and started the van. The outside temp is in the mid 30's. The reservoir was at the right level. It idled for about 15 minutes filling the reservoir. The temp gauge went up to the 3/4 mark and the cooling fans kicked into high. The hoses were both warm with the upper being a little warmer but not so much I couldn't hold on to it. The temp dropped a little at that point but then climbed again to the last notch before the red then it would drop a little and go back up, never going into the red or the overheat light coming on. Then I took it for a short drive. As I pulled to the road the temp stayed steady at the red. When I pulled on to the road and picked up speed the temp dropped to the halfway and lower mark and stayed in that range until I returned home. Once again at idle the needle went back to the red line. The whole time I never got any heat out of the front or rear heater or defroster. Any cyber mechanics have an idea? | |
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| Chevy Venture vans have defect in cooling system - (intake manifold Leaks) causing the engine to overheat and blow the motor. See here: www.dextcoollitigation.com | |
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| Hello, The motor in these vans are poop! "3.4L". With that said, I am in need of a replacement and can get it shipped/trucked or whatever... been looking for a replacement for some time - we are in California. If anyone out there knows of a crashed van or the like please let us know. 888-875-3001. | |
Funny, I live in the second coldest capital city in the world and in sub zero temperatures, my wifes van overheats. Based on what I've read in this forum, it looks like there are a lot of possibilities: bad intake manifold, bad intake manifold gasket, bad water pump, etc. When she first experienced the problem a few months ago, I immediately had the coolant flushed. The coolant had the characteristic brown dexcool sludge She put a few more thousand kilometers on it without problem after the flush. Today, she experienced the problem again after a half hour drive across the city. She hobbled home and let the van sit for a couple of hours. It started without problem and she took it for a short 10 kilometer drive and did not experience the problem. Given the random yet inconvenient nature of the problem, I'm going to try to manage it by coolant flushes and long rests. After reading the posts, either air is getting in the coolant or the sludge has returned. I'm not sure where the air is coming from or how it can bleed out of the system after a few hours rest, which is why I think that the sludge might be a better possibility. So, when the problem becomes more severe, I'll have to rethink how to manage it. I'll update when the symptoms change and/or I change management strategies.
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Replying to: hogmo (Feb 20, 2009 4:31 pm) what I did to fix the problem for good was to replace the upper Manifold (plenum) and the intake manifold , replace the water pump , by the way the new water pump has been re Design by GM I guess to improve the water flow , its got bigger propellers , also replace the THERMOSTAT , it could be that your vehicle is heavy sludge because of the dexcool . Have it flush with a SUPER FLUSH for half an hour once the vehicle reaches normal temperature , normal reading in gauge is half to 3/4 before the fans turn on, then the needle drops again to 1/2. the correct procedure when ready to add NEW coolant is to open both BLEEDERS , one next to the water pump and the other next to the THERMOSTAT 3/4 turn , add coolant until it reaches the neck of the radiator , wait for awhile , and add again till it reaches the neck, when it doesnt go down , close the BLEEDERS starting with the one next to the water pump , then the other one. also replace the RADIATOR CAP with the original replacement ONLY. AJ
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Replying to: AJGWHEELS (Feb 20, 2009 9:21 pm) I've tried the bleeders but the one on the left takes forever to get the air out. I've even tried patiently adding coolant directly down the bleeder and it still keeps disappearing. I do think I'll try replacing the pump and thermostat. |
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i WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHERE AND WHAT THIS LINE LOOKS LIKE. tHE DEALER TOLD ME IT IS LEAKING AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. wHEN I WENT TO BY THE PART ANOTHER DEALER TOLD ME THAT IN 99% OF THOSE LEAKS ITS JUST AN O RING. sO I BOUGHT THE $20 O RING INSTEAD OF THE $100+ LINE AND WOULD LIKE SOME INFO ON WHERE TO START. i ALSO HAVE HAD OVERHEATING ISSUSES FOR A FEW MONTHS, BUT I THINK ITS JUST AIR IN THE SYSTEM BECAUSE WHEN I BLEED IT IT WORKS FINE FOR SOMETIME. cOULD MY AIR ISSUE BE COMING FROM THIS LEAK IN THE BYPASS LINE. wHAT THE ### DOES THE BYPASS LINE DO ANYWAY?lET ME GUESS BYPASS THE COOLANT, BUT FROM WHERE?
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Replying to: gmz1 (Apr 10, 2009 8:18 am) Good luck!
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Replying to: s10chevybob (Apr 10, 2009 5:47 pm)
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Replying to: mikayla10 (Jun 06, 2007 2:23 pm)  with this need help. thanks. email response to herringdine2000 yahoo.com
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