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Sedans Oldsmobile Aurora Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Problems
89 messages, Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 8:20 PM
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Replaced the wires on the car as a couple of them had burn marks on them. since then when in drive and idling in traffic the car now stalls. up until the wires were replaced the car did not stall. checked and there is no vacuum line off. it does this after the car has been running about 10 minutes and continues to do it while you are idling in traffic. any ideas what could be the problem now?
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Replying to: doucette (Nov 11, 2007 5:00 am)
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Replying to: dman248 (Jun 29, 2007 6:01 am) Stopped and ran a computer engine code check at Monroe, they said it read "misfiring cylinder" - try a tune up first. I'll try that first after Christmas before a full scan is done at the Cadillac dealer - more to come... |
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To summarize a LONG December with my car maintenance and troubleshooting: Aurora V8 4.0, 83,000miles, After new exhaust pipes/mufflers, then wheel bearing/ABS sensor replaced with electrical troubleshooting done and corrected in early Dec, a week later (Christmas Eve morning), I cold start and the car runs terribly, chugging, sputtering, etc like I've never heard before from it (cat convert is still good). Engine light on then even started flashing at times (did not drive when flashed other than the first time for a short distance off the highway). When idling and warmed up to normal operating temp after ~25min, car runs smoothly again (light sometimes went out, sometimes not once running smoothly). Dealer got a misfire code on #1 cylinder especially but others were random, they changed spark plugs and 1 coil, the other components were fine and tested good. Problem still not fixed with misfire on #1 after many diagnostics: tested wires(boots)-all good, fuel injectors good, all sensors appear working/O2 sensors, MAF, ECM, etc no codes related. They narrowed down to carbon buildup (also called in to GM for second opinion and they agreed/no other thoughts). Two different engine flushes were done 12hr flush with the injectors, I guess a top and bottom flush as they called it). It appears that per dealer (who is reputable and we have a 4 year relationship so trustworthy of being upfront with me, gave me about 1.5 days of these diagnostics w/out additional payment),,, we're down to a "99% sure it's a sticky valve as they've seen before often, thought is since no electrical codes or components are obvious via testing, it's mechanical - carbon buildup in cyl #1 at cold start, car runs poorly for the period of time until it's warm enough for the valve to open up and move freely". I've been given the GM fuel additive to run through the car which I've driven about 150 miles with (1/4 tank). The dealer has the car back until tomorrow so they can give me a quote on tear down, send out for internal engine cleaning, and so if that works to clean out carbon and possibly resolve? Once through this terrible run period, the car runs beautifully and with the updates and new plugs, has great power back so I'm torn with what to do. Any thoughts/similar experiences/new ideas or products to save from the decision of paying another big money output or choosing to sell the car early for a new? Thanks for any help,
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Replying to: meadster (Jan 01, 2008 11:52 am) had a similar problem with my 1998 Aurora, car ran great when warmed up but when first starting from cold the car idle fluctuated and the whole car would shake like it was not running on all cylinders. took it in to the GM dealer who diagnosed that the intake manifold needed to be re-torqued. I gave the go ahead for them to do it and it solved the problem. the intake manifold was sucking air which was causing it to have a rough idle when cold. cost for me was about $300.00. good luck |
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Replying to: butchmotors (Dec 07, 2007 10:52 am) Thanks. |
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Replying to: spur2 (Jan 13, 2008 8:58 pm) noticed your message.....my 98 had the same issue. I bought the car in the late summer, had no problems until the cold weather seem to hit....I had also changed the wires and the same day after changing the wires, it started to act the same way..it was like someone took the key and turned it off while you were idling at a stop light or stop sign....in neutral or park it did not do it. replaced one crankshaft sensor and it did not do it for the mechanic. brought it home and it started again. replace the other sensor and it did not do it for a couple of weeks. they then had to clean the contacts on the sensor. it has not acted up since (knock on wood). My suggestion is that if you have them replace the sensors make sure they replace both at once and that the contacts at the other end are clean. good luck... i know how frustrating this is, it was like someone just turned the key off and the car would always start right back up.
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Replying to: doucette (Jan 14, 2008 3:20 am) Please advise. Also, have you tried new wires? |
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My Aurora has been to 3 Olds dealers in the last 3 years for diagnosis to correct a lope, or missfire when driving 35-40 mph. the car runs great and gets 17mpg. in town and 27 on the hi-way. The problem started  55,000 mi. and still has it 87,000 mi. Have had wires, plugs, filters, (fuel & air) changed,engine scans, (found no problems) fuel & engine additives tried numerous times. Only time the 'CHECK ENGINE' light comes on is in real humid conditions,(spring and fall) and doesn't stay on long. Premium fuel makes no differrence except for hi-way mileage. Dealer mechanics can't find anything wrong, but notice the same miss that I do, yet say everything checks out so there's nothing they can do. I thought it was in the transmission, but leaving it in 3rd.(no overdrive) increases rpm and the miss is still there! I've had dozens of vehicles, but this problem is a one of a kind mystery!
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 1995 Aurora with engine trouble light. Gave it a tuneup; got a $700 estimate to fix these codes: "knock sensor line missing the reference signal ECM trouble codes = 132-27-36-74-119-136-135-134-133. Does this sound like I need a new computer? New one was installed in 2003, and as I can't afford to feed my lovable auto, it gets driven only about once a week. Have already put $5,000 more repair into the car than it's worth so reluctant to do more. (where's that guy with the engine fire who needs a '95 engine - you might get mine!) So can you help me figure this out? Thanks in advance.
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