Last post on Oct 08, 2013 at 5:03 PM
You are in the Pontiac Torrent
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Pontiac Torrent, Electrical, SUV
Mar 08, 2013 (4:14 pm)
Makes you kind of wonder why they don't make the Torrent anymore...
#178 of 185 Re: lemon Torrents [sanna9701]
Mar 19, 2013 (11:13 am)
It doesn't matter how much we all complain here! We took it uncomfortably up the hindin when we purchased our LEMON'S, uhumm,,, I mean Torrent's. Mine has had the heater core replaced, the starter replaced, front wheel bearings replaced, the driver's door wiring harness is a frickin joke, and my radio won't shut off until I open another door, my window adjuster,OOO, my window will not roll up or down unless you either open the door several times or punch it.
The AUTO light switch no longer works, and I am also experiencing the hesitation when I accelerate, but I am installing the plugs and wires myself. The ignition has always been weird, (sometimes won't start even though it is turning over) probably time for a new starter.
My Torrent only has 75,000 miles on it, and ever since I've had it there have been major problems that should never happen to a $25,000.00 GM vehicle. I swear that I will never buy a GM, and will advise everyone I know to ever buy a GM. I don't understand why this car was never recalled!
#179 of 185 Re: starting problems [scb1976]
Apr 01, 2013 (3:39 pm)
Update: we switched out the battery, which was bulging on one side, it also tested bad at the auto parts store. We replaced it with a brand new 70 month battery and alas, all of the crazy electronic issues and starting issues completely resolved! Cannot imagine what the dealerships would have charged me to figure this one out, only cost us the price of a new battery, $100. I'm still at a loss as to why the GM dealership didn't catch a bulging bad battery when they did a "thorough" inspection of the vehicle during the height of all these issues. Just glad to have my dependable Torrent back in service.
#180 of 185 Re: starting problems [gmcustsvc]
Jun 03, 2013 (7:42 am)
If GM knows there is this problem, they need to do a recall and get it fixed. It's ridiculous that people are going through all this crap just to get fixed what the makers already know.
#182 of 185 Pontiac Torrent 2006 Not Starting after Accident. Explanation and Testing.
Aug 10, 2013 (2:29 pm)
Car was in accident. The starter turns over but the car does not start.
Other electrical such as stereo works.
Changed the camshaft sensor and the crankshaft sensors (but still getting error in diagnostic about crankshaft sensor.)
The starter turns over. There is fuel pressure so the fuel pump works. The injectors (at least one of them) gets electricity. When the spark plugs are taken out, it is not wet in the engine, and the spark plugs are not working. Checked, cleaned and reconnected ground at engine and chassis and plus wires on engine. Battery is good condition.
The air bag light is turned on because air bags went off during accident. The radiator fan errors come up also in the diagnostic. As well as Speed sensor circuit comes up in the diagnosis when trying to start the car.
#183 of 185 Re: Pontiac Torrent 2006 Not Starting after Accident. Explanation and Testing. [kg7]
Aug 10, 2013 (7:27 pm)
Diagnostic shows engine speed sensor input no signal.
#184 of 185 Re: Pontiac Torrent 2006 Not Starting after Accident. Explanation and Testing. [kg7]
Sep 29, 2013 (6:19 pm)
Just curious if you have been able to solve your problem. I am having similar problems with my NO-start Torrent.
I have a 2008 that was in a light front end collision, airbags did not go off. Car started, ran, and was driveable. I parked the vehicle, disconnected the battery, and I took apart the front of the vehicle, bumper cover, bumper rebar, headlights, foglights, and air temp sensor. I also took off the a Ground Wire on the Engine Wiring Harness that connected to the frame. I forgot to hook this wire back up to the frame prior to hooking the battery up.
Now here is where it gets complicated. I was foolish and put the key in the ignition before have the battery hooked up and turned it to the on position. Was unable to remove the key, so figured i should just hook up the battery because it will be fine. I hooked the battery up(put negative wire back on post, as this was the only one i removed), and.....The wiring harness started to smoke, and eventually melted through the ground wire that went to the ECM. Also, only one fuse blew in the fuse panel, the ECM fuse.
I stripped the entire wiring harness near down and replaced the 2 feet of Ground wire that was burned/melted. It goes into a heavier gauge wire after those 2 feet, and splits into 2 other wires, so i figure the current was evenly spread over those other wires leaving them unharmed. I also inspected those wires for continuity, and damage, they were fine, along with all other wires in the wiring harness.
I was prompeted to relearn the key for the Anti-Theft after this wire was replaced, key is now recognized. But now i put the key to ON, fuel pump engages, and crank to START, and nothing, just a click or 2(the battery is good I have tried 2 different batteries, one from my a truck with 30% higher cranking amps).
When diagnosing the start relay in the relay/fuse panel, that checks out and sends about 11.85V to through all the way to the purple IGN wire on the starter solenoid, this cranks up to 11.85 V for about 3 seconds then goes to 0.00 V. The start solenoid will not engage or crank.
I have tried jumper wires from the back of the fuse panel to the Starter solenoid, which shows 11.85V as well,(this is a heavier guage wire too). and still no crank.
I checked the starter solenoid directly, when the battery is hooked up, and key is on or off, i can jump a wire from a (+) battery post to the IGN+ on the solenoid to engage the solenoid, and the starter will crank.
I have also purchased another computer that was certified remanufactured, and programmed with VIN, etc. the vehicle acts exactly the same.
I am running out of ideas. Is there something in the anti-theft system that is still telling the system to not crank/start. I removed the DR Lock Fuse on the inside fuse panel, as when the system is turned to START, the doors will UNLOCK and click. I wanted to isolate this problem, and cut power to this system, incase a solenoid is bad.
I have also placed a jumper wire in the hood latch so it thinks the hood is closed.
Vehicle would not start when key was ON and I jumped the starter solenoid.
ANY POINTERS OR HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED!!!! I have about 15-20 hours chasing wires, looking at continuity, resistance, and opens, etc. and don't seem to be getting anywhere.
#185 of 185 Re: Pontiac Torrent 2006 Not Starting after Accident. Explanation and Testing. [tkort]
Oct 08, 2013 (5:03 pm)
Ok check your lights on dash when you turn the vehicle to run position. Does ABS, traction control lights stay on? Does any of them stay on other than check engine? The reason to do this, is if any of them stay on, you can track down to the module the wiring, and see where it is broken. Usually it is a wire between some module to one of the computers that could have gone wrong.
Depends how you put the ground wire back on, make sure it is on there properly, as another time I had problems because the ground wire got corroded on the frame.
Another time I had the car not starting is because it was one very small wire got cut that went from ABS module to computer (Traction control wire). And putting this small wire back together solved the problem. In all this time, I did not need to replace the computers.
When you put the wiring back together and you had it melted, take liquid tape http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-4-fl-oz-Liquid-Electrical-Tape-LTB-400- - - - /100119178#.UlSpblCfgo4 and put it around all the wires where the insulation may have melted on each wire. This will prevent a future fire in the wiring.
If you have a diagnostic tool - use it.
Also note, when you start redoing the wiring (connecting cables together) simple connectors can only last for so long because moisture gets into connectors. You need to solder the wires together and use heat shrink (that puts insulation on the cables and wiring). This way water will not get into the connectors, forming corrosion, and it will not start a fire this way. Very important to do this correctly. Also you can use a clear liquid that strengthens the connections between the wires (when you put the wires together) and also between battery terminals). I do not have the name on me but if needed I can find it, also can be bought at home depot.
Use a Heat gun for Heat Shrink for it to be professionally done.
Soldering Iron (I use 140Watt to 220watt) Not less. (You can buy used one)
Make sure you get the right molding metal for electrical with flux. (flux cleans the connections)
Also about the clear liquid I was talking about, you can put that in the connectors for the computer, and other connections to make them good. Ask about this liquid at a home depot, who actually knows about it.