Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 1:42 PM
You are in the Ford Expedition
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Ford Expedition, SUV
#148 of 236 Re: 07 Ford Expedition XL Rear A/C access [mjwoolley]
Jun 14, 2010 (5:01 am)
In the rear passenger compartment,underneath the plastic cowling in the back of the SUV, There are 2 regulators, previous threads in this post explain it better than I am, but it is a white plastic square box that more than likely has some gears that are damaged in it. I took mine out and headed to the local Ford Dealer to get a new one, it ran me about $60.00 and took me less than an hour to replace.
I have not been able to find any kind of service/repair manual at all for the 2007 Expeditions, but would appreciate any pointing me in the direction to get one. (it doesn't have to be free, but that would be nice).
Jun 25, 2010 (9:49 am)
ford experdition 1997. when i turn the a/c on the engine starts to run rough,check engine light on ,code po402 egr excessive air flow, everything with egr has been change , is there a spot in the wire harness where the problem could be, o yea turn a/c off for awhile engine runs ok
#150 of 236 Re: front A/C problem [chua]
Jul 07, 2010 (2:01 pm)
did you ever fix this?My 96 expedition is having the same issue.
#151 of 236 Re: front A/C problem [notasoccerstar]
Jul 10, 2010 (9:13 am)
a/c not blowing cold air up front means ur Blend door shaft is broke, I replace mine, front a/c blows cold again, as for the motor runing rough when a/c is on most like the TPS (trottle position sensor) is bad ,I replace mines from advance auto parts $32.42 truck runs like new again after almost 5 years of having this problem. Let no if this help, Good Luck
#152 of 236 Re: EGR ,a/c problem [lauderdale1997]
Jul 10, 2010 (9:17 am)
turn out to be a bad (TPS) Trottle position sensor, replace sensor truck run fine now,
#153 of 236 2006 Expedition a/c blows hot air.
Jul 19, 2010 (2:24 pm)
I have recharged my 06 Expedition a/c unit twice in the past six weeks. Each time the a/c blows cold air for about three weeks then goes back to blowing hot air. I added the dye both times and looked for the leak, unable to find one. Today I broke down and took it to the shop. They called me with an estimate of nearly $1,675.00 saying that the entire a/c unit needs to be replaced. And that they can see two leaks on either side of the compressor. I'm not sure why they would need to replace the accumulator, condenser, and evaporator if they are only seeing leaks around the compressor... And I have a feeling they are trying to screw me over seeing that I am a girl. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
#154 of 236 Expedition rear a/c access
Jul 21, 2010 (8:57 am)
Can anyone tell us DIY's how to remove the interior trim to access the rear a/c unit to replace one or both actuators?
#155 of 236 Re: Expedition rear a/c access [wkugel]
Jul 21, 2010 (9:15 am)
Which one? One of them is super easy, the other a little harder. The floor to ceiling one is easy.
#156 of 236 Re: Expedition rear a/c access [alwaysfords2]
Jul 21, 2010 (9:20 am)
Not sure yet which actuator. My concern is the interior trim panels. Where are the screws or other clips that I need to know about to release the trim without breaking them?
#157 of 236 Re: Expedition rear a/c access [wkugel]
Jul 21, 2010 (11:02 am)
I understand your concerns, I'm trying to save you having to disassemble the trim pieces. You didn't say what year yours was, but for the second generation I can offer you the following;
For one of them you don't need to touch the panels at all. For the other one I have read of people doing it both ways, with the trim in place and a little contorting, and by taking the trim off. The problem with the trim is that you need to start at the hatch and remove all the pieces on the top and bottom to free up the quarter window trim.
You can easily tell which actuator it is - does the hot and cold work properly in the back or does the floor to ceiling work properly? Or do neither work??
If you insist on taking stuff apart before you figure out which one you need to fix, this is the best way to start...
The floor to ceiling actuator is located right under the little tray under the p/s quarter window. To remove the tray you need to flex the side walls of the tray towards the middle of the tray to unhook the arrow head barbs that are holding it to the large expanse of trim. The beige box you see in the opening is the actuator. Now if you want to see if it is the problem, unplug the electrical connection to it and see if the clicking goes away. If it does, that is the cuplrit and the whole fix will take 10 minutes and cost $50. If it doesn't, then you need to get to the other one. It is exactly the same size box, down lower on the wheel well arch, and in that general area. You will have to feel around and remove it blind if you don't want to do the trim. I have read of people taking the second row cup holders out to reach back towards it to get a second hand in there.
If you decide on taking the whole thing apart the trim is held in by spring clips and barbs, there are no hidden screws. Grab and pull.
Be careful when you get your replacement part(s). While the actuators look the same they are not. The axles are different.