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Mazda 626 Air conditioning troubles

13 messages,  Last post on Jun 26, 2012 at 6:24 AM

You are in the Mazda 626 Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mazda 626, Heating / Cooling, Sedan

Messages Page 2 of 2

#5 of 13 Re: AC just stopped [shanem75] by wayne0832

Aug 16, 2009 (12:08 pm)

Replying to: shanem75 (Jun 24, 2009 11:42 am)
I have a 2000 626 and the dealer charged me 800.00 to change the evaporator, that was not the problem. They then told me it was the hoses and wanted anothe 650.00. I did not change the hoses, felt I was getting hosed enough. What I did find (on accident) their is a relief valve off the compressor that was leaking. I guess because it was under the car they did not check it. I cleaned it and tightened it down and it stopped leaking. As for the spent 800.00, the dealership would not refund, the BBB was not any help either.

#6 of 13 AC problem with 2000 mazda by ucee

Feb 18, 2010 (1:18 am)

I have a 2000 mazda 626, automatic. the car was bought used. due to a leak ,there was no gas in the compressor when the car was bought. after fixing the leak and gas added the AC was working but after working for about 45munites and u drive to a halt the compressor will be cutting and picking within seconds. this will eventually lead to the engine going off. due to this problem i cannot use the AC in a traffic- jam. i feel this is unusual. the technicians say the thermostat has to be changed from automatic to manual. please i need solution to this.

#7 of 13 Re: A/C problems with Mazda 626 [gusser] by p100

Dec 04, 2010 (6:08 pm)

Replying to: gusser (Jul 23, 2008 4:12 pm)
You do not want a used evaporator. The $ 600 dollar fix quote is a bargain, as most of that would be for the labor involved to get to the evaporator. On some cars, like Mercedes, it can cost up to $ 2,000 to replace that part.
 
The problem may not be the evaporator itself, but one of the A/C tubing connections. There is an O ring in every one of these and it can start leaking. Also, the connection B nut threads must be lubed with refrigerant oil prior to disassembly, otherwise it may be practically impossible to tighten the nuts enough to properly compress the O ring. There is a built-in shoulder in the tube, so you cannot squish the O ring even if you overtighten the connection. Oil on the threads prevents the possibility of twisting the tubing due to excessive force required.

#8 of 13 A/C malfunction by p100

Dec 26, 2010 (9:01 pm)

Also, one reason why A/C may stop blowing cold is a clogged orifice tube which is located in the hard line going to the evaporator.

#9 of 13 burned electric ac clutch by paris5717

May 24, 2011 (7:43 pm)

i have two 626's a '99 and a '98 both v6's. i am pretty savvy with wrenches but had overheating probs in standing trafficon my '99. So I replaced passenger side fan and was fine for a while til the new fan burned fuses and burn out! So spent money at a good shop who replaced both fans after they replaced fan assy at there cost....because they burn new fans out too, was told my ac clutch was to blame for high amp drain. new ac pump was quoted at $1100! Question... why does madza design a system that fails like this? i replace my ac pump and accumulator and oriface tube myself with advanced auto parts for $310 then took it back to shop for diagnostic and evac and new freeon fill. saved money

#10 of 13 AC Problems with 1991 Mazda 626 DX by subheavy

Jul 30, 2011 (4:03 pm)

I have checked the coolant and it is fine. The compressor comes on, but it only blows hot air. Everything works, but it only blows hot air. Can anybody give me a list of any possible solutions to this problem. During the winter months the heater doesn't blow any heat. Once the engine heats up, the vents throw out enough heat to keep you warm.

#11 of 13 2000 Mazda 626 Air Conditioning by justjeff2

May 30, 2012 (9:22 am)

The AC on my 626 is working, but it isn't working.
 
The unit is fully charged... the compressor works when manually jumped... it will then blow cold air.
 
There is nothing in the computer code information that gives any clues.
 
There is some sort of relay or switch not doing it's job. Has anyone else run into this? I don't want to chase the proverbial needle in the haystack unless I have to.
 
Thanks in advance.

#12 of 13 There is a relay by wayne0832

May 30, 2012 (11:43 am)

There is a relay, I had mine replaced while it was still under warranty. The relays are under the hood on the drivers side. I think there is a relay for one of the cooling fans that runs constantly when the A/C is running. If it goes out it prevents the a/c from turning on. Most of them are the same and can be swapped around to test.

#13 of 13 Re: There is a relay [wayne0832] by justjeff2

Jun 26, 2012 (6:24 am)

Replying to: wayne0832 (May 30, 2012 11:43 am)
I checked the relay by swapping with the horn relay (same relay). When the horn still worked, I knew that the relay was good.
 
There are two switches (one high pressure and one low pressure - I forget which is which), but one is on the back of the accumulator. That was the culprit.

Messages Page 2 of 2

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