Last post on Apr 29, 2013 at 12:49 PM
You are in the Mazda 626
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Mazda 626, Lights, Auto Repair, Electrical, Sedan
#4 of 31 Thermostat fluctuating to C
Nov 17, 2007 (11:16 am)
My 2001 Mazda 626's thermostat has been fluctuating down to C for the last three days. I noticed it 4 days ago. I turned the car on in the evening (in the 50s out) and the needle sat on C for several miles (longer than ususal) and then slowly came up to just below the half way mark. I looked down several minutes later and it fluctuated down toward the C and then came back up. First thing the next morning I took it to my mechanic. He checked the fluids which were fine and said it was probably an electrical short and as long as it didn't go above the a half way point not to worry. I've had a lot of work done on this car. Most recently replaced the radiator and thermostat and brakes. Today it started doing it again. Anybody have this problem? Could it be something more than just an electrical short?
#5 of 31 Re: Thermostat fluctuating to C [debra6]
Dec 16, 2007 (11:45 am)
did u ever figure out what happened to your electrical system? i have an 89 mazda 626 and all of the sudden it wont show what my temp is. or how much gas i have or my rpms or if im in drive park reverse. nothing. the only thing it will show is how fast im going. its strange but if you could help it would be greatly appreciated.
#6 of 31 Flickering lghts with a buzzing
Feb 11, 2008 (4:13 pm)
I have a 1998 Mazda 626
* right headlight is out
* left headlight flickers
* clicking or buzzing sound coming from somewhere
If the car is running you hear a buzzing sound and it flickers really really fast and the headlight flickers about 5-10 times a second in time with the clicking coming from the relay. It doesn't happen when only the parking lights are on
#7 of 31 Charge & Rear lights come on when I turn the wheel
Sep 11, 2008 (8:12 am)
I have a 1990 Mazda 626 (still). Whenever I turn on the A/C or turn the steering wheel,
1. the "charge" light and "rear" light come on.
2. Power steering is lost.
After I cleaned the battery terminal, this problem only exist when I turn the steering wheel.
I get 12V when the engine is off and 13.3V when the engine is on. I've taken the battery and alternator out of the car and had them tested at AutoZone. They are both good.
Thanks in advance.
#8 of 31 2001 626 4cyl. electric fuel pump controls
Oct 24, 2008 (8:01 am)
#9 of 31 regarding message 8 - continuation
Oct 25, 2008 (3:15 pm)
I have no shop manuals. Was having to turn on key and wait for 10-15 seconds before car would start, leading me to believe a weak fuel pump had to catch up. Was running fine once started. After a 2 hour drive pulled in to stop and car would no longer start. Had good fire and no fuel. Replaced fuel pump, still will not start. Checked wires from relay to pump, has continuity. You can hear the new pump running but only for a couple of seconds right after operating the starter. Suspect the fuel pump relay or whatever triggers the relay is faulty.
Is the fuel pump supposed to be running constantly when the ignition is on and the engine is running?
Any suggestions as to what I should check next? I am considering bypassing the relay if the pump is supposed to operate anytime the ignition is on anyway. Good idea???? Please help
#10 of 31 Re: regarding message 8 - continuation [budb]
Oct 31, 2008 (8:12 am)
I have a similar problem bodb. Mine starts sometimes on first try, then other times on 2nd or 3rd try and yet other times, I need to use starting fluid. I've read that some folks needed to replace the distributer (pricey) and others replaced the Crankshaft Positioning Sensor. Good luck
#11 of 31 Dummy gauge problems
Apr 30, 2009 (12:36 pm)
I've got a mazda 1996 626 Lx 4 cylinder. My windsheild is leaking so when it rains it soaks my interior, it leaks from top of windsheild in the middle where a seem was not sealed correctly. well just recently I had my breaks done, not sure if it has anything to do with it. when I start my car it starts fine idles fine reverses fine but as soon as I put it in D(gear) and accelerate my MPH and RPM gauges bobble and my temperature gauge shoots to high on the gauge and then its really hard shifting too
#12 of 31 Starting problem
Apr 30, 2009 (6:32 pm)
I have a 1993 Mazda 626 4 cyl
it would start sometimes first try and then sometimes second try and sometimes I had to wait a few minutes and try again, It also cut off a few times while driving and I had to do same . the problem I had to replace the whole distributor it cost a little more than 200.00 but everything works fine now
#13 of 31 Eletrical issues
Jun 24, 2009 (5:59 am)
This is really getting to me.
Today I have to miss a day of work to try to track this error down.
I have a 2000 Mazda 626 2.0l
Car started and ran fine.
I left my house.
I got 3 miles up the road and noticed my voltage up close to 16. (radar detector is telling me the voltage)
Then my radar detector threw a high volt warning.
Car down shifted, check engine light blinked, voltage dropped below 15.5, car shift back to normal and light goes off.
I turned around as i am 30 min from the closest town. Since it was throwing high volt i was turning everything on that i could think of to try to draw it down.
I could not go above 40mph.
As soon as i did the voltage would spike, and down shift, light blink, return to normal, normal shift, light off.
This happened for ~1.5-2 miles and then went back to normal and i could accelerate as needed.
Same symptoms happened when i first bought the car and transmission company told me it was my battery connection. 3 other companies later and i got the transmission replaced and there was nothing for 4 years till now.
I disconnected my Amp wire, pulled the fuse under the hood, and drove it around to no avail so i am pretty sure it is not the amp wiring causing the issue.
SO i am assuming i have an electrical issue somewhere... Any ideas?