Last post on Dec 06, 2010 at 5:58 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
What is this discussion about?
Buick LeSabre, Brakes, Sedan
#30 of 39 Re: 2000 LeSabre Disc Brakes too hot [imidazol97]
Jun 08, 2010 (8:37 am)
I used C-clamp with a wooden piece on piston side and never had problem. I have seen this mechanic doing this way. Also google 'how to change disc brakes'.
#31 of 39 Re: 2000 LeSabre Disc Brakes too hot [imidazol97]
Jun 08, 2010 (10:29 am)
to quote the factory service manual from GM (Helm):
Page 5-67 for 2003 FSM
"Notice: When using a large C-clamp to compress a caliper piston into a caliper bore of a caliper equipped with an integral parking brake mechanism, do not exceed more than 1 mm (0.039 in) of piston travel. Exceeding this amount of piston travel will cause damage to the internal adjusting mechanism and/or the integral park brake mechanism.
1. Compress the piston until resistance is felt, but no more than 1 mm of piston travel.
The factory technicians should know how to repair it.
Good luck with your rear adjusters or parking brake mechanism. I hope they are still working correctly for you.
Myself, I'll use the factory-approved procedure, which I spoke about in the previous post.
#32 of 39 Re: 2000 LeSabre Disc Brakes too hot [imidazol97]
Jun 08, 2010 (1:43 pm)
There is no doubt in my mind that a C-clamp will not work to compress the rear pistons on the 2000-2005 LeSabres. The C-clamp works fine for the front brakes but the rear pistons must be rotated clockwise until clearance over the pads is obtained. The special tool as you described will work much better than a needle nose pliers or the small vise grip that I used.
#33 of 39 2002 Le Sabre brake issue
Jul 31, 2010 (7:35 am)
My 82 year old mom has a 2002 Le Sabre. I drove it to put gas in it this morning and noticed that when braking it had plenty of pedal at first but then it would eventually bottom out almost at the end of each stopping event. I checked the fluid level and it is ok. Does this sound like a master cylinder problem to you?
#34 of 39 LeSabre 2002 Brake issue
Jul 31, 2010 (8:38 am)
Please check that Brake Fluid level remains same and if not it may be leaking. Inspect all four wheels and see any Brake Fluid-don't press pedal when Brake drum is dismounted. If no leak then try Bleeding the Brakes. Also check that vaccum lines.
#35 of 39 Re: 2002 Le Sabre brake issue [cblackwood]
Jul 31, 2010 (9:24 am)
Check for leaks showing under the car where it stopped. If you were leaking at a wheel or a line, you might see a drip. I believe it is possible for fluid to leak in a master cylinder in a way that it is sucked into the vacuum unit and therefore doesn't show up anywhere as a drip.
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder to see if the volume has dropped.
Then try just pushing on the brake pedal with the engine running and hold it steady in pressure. See if the pedal slowly goes on down. That most likely is a the fluid in the master cylinder leaking around the piston seals.
I believe this requires professional checking. It's a safety problem.
#36 of 39 92 back wheel locked up
Dec 06, 2010 (2:00 pm)
#37 of 39 92 back wheel locked up
Dec 06, 2010 (2:07 pm)
I have a 1992 that has been sitting in MS for 2yrs. Everything seems to work except the rear Left Side Wheel. It is frozen. It won't break loose driving the car back and forth. The parking break has not been used, the wheel studs move within the wheel, but the wheel will not turn, even when pressure is applies and even hitting it with a hammer does not free it. Any suggestions??
#38 of 39 Re: 92 back wheel locked up [tom4500]
Dec 06, 2010 (5:41 pm)
I suggest that if you could jack-up the left rear side and remove the wheel and hammer around and see if you can move. If still problem, it may be the bearing jammed and you need a mechanic to look at it, Good Luck.
#39 of 39 Re: 92 back wheel locked up [tom4500]
Dec 06, 2010 (5:58 pm)
Are you saying that the wheel lugs move within the openings on the tire rim? That would mean the rim was rusted to the brake drum. The wheel and brake drum are able to move slightly relative to the hub with its studs.
I would think moving the car would work. But it doesn't! Next would be JB Blaster sprayed between the drum and the rim. And then heat to expand one more than the other to crack the corrosion.