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Voyager Blower Resistor

9 messages,  Last post on Oct 25, 2008 at 8:15 AM

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#2 of 9 blower resistor location by vcheng May 14, 2007 (5:15 am)
passenger side of firewall in the engine compartment. Replies to this message: scudmore (May 14, 2007 4:27 pm)
#3 of 9 Re: blower resistor location [vcheng] by scudmore May 14, 2007 (4:27 pm)
Replying to: vcheng (May 14, 2007 5:15 am) Thank you for your reply .I put the new one on tonight.
#4 of 9 You are welcome. by vcheng May 15, 2007 (4:42 am)
#5 of 9 Blower Resistor Location by houler Sep 17, 2007 (1:10 pm)
Where is the location for the blower resistor in a 96 Voyageur (short van)?
#6 of 9 same place as in message 2 above I think. by vcheng Sep 18, 2007 (4:13 am)
#7 of 9 96 voyager by jnchelp Oct 17, 2008 (6:01 pm)
blower motor works when tested with battery hook up ,switch seems to check out with continuity tester is the power relay on the right side of the fire wall like in forum #2 ? And is there anything else that would keep the blower from running correctly
#8 of 9 "97 voyager blower motor by james145 Oct 24, 2008 (12:05 pm)
when the car is in reverse the blower stops working for both heater and air conditioner , when it is not in reverse it works.Some times it will sputter when going from 0-20 mph.I am stumped.
#9 of 9 Re: resistor [scudmore] by agrothe Oct 25, 2008 (8:15 am)
Replying to: scudmore (May 11, 2007 6:34 pm) this is what i found looking around:   1996-99 Plymouth Voyager…other years may vary but it should be pretty much the same setup Symptom: HIGH speed works and OFF works, no in between speeds. It will probably become intermittent before it doesn’t work at all.   Part number for resistor block is Mopar 1-04677180AD.   The front blower resistor block is located above and behind the right front strut tower on the firewall. You’re not going to like this little exercise. It should have been a very easy job but Chrysler has managed to make it difficult.   First remove the 10mm bolt from the clamp holding the low pressure tube to the bracket that is in your way.   Remove the 10mm nut that holds the bracket to the strut tower.   Spin the clamp up out of your way a bit.   The resistor block is connected to the firewall by an internal spring steel type of pressure clip. You need to push a small screwdriver in from the sides of the resistor block to release it from the firewall…GOOD LUCK. You may have to pry it off the firewall (AS I DID), in which case you’ll need to reform the ears on the firewall where the clips attach (AS I DID). Buy a new one (about $13.00 at the dealer), then you can see what's necessary to remove it from the firewall.   You will probably find that the springs (resistors) are fine but the spade connections are corroded. One or more of these will probably break when you try to remove the block from the harness connector. Push the bad connector(s) out towards the wire harness. The bad connector on mine was the brown/black. It was also melted a bit around this connector.   Cut the bad spade off of the harness.   Get a new spade that is large enough to fit the new block and handle a piece of 12 or 14 gauge wire. It appears that the harness is 14 gauge. I sliced a 4" piece of new 12 gauge to the existing 14 gauge and then attached the new spade to the other end of the new piece of 12 gauge wire. Do not use smaller gauge wire to do the repair as a fair amount of current passes through this circuit.   Solder the splice connection and cover the splice with two pieces of heat shrink tube.   Solder the spade connection.   Make sure that the new spade will seat all the way into the harness connector. It doesn’t matter that it doesn’t lock into the harness connector.   The new block has a coating of what appears to be dielectric grease. I use a product called Ox-Gard that can be bought in the electrical section of any decent hardware store. This is different from dielectric grease in that it IS conductive. Put some on a spare spade and move it in and out of the harness connections until you think they’re clean. Put a bit on the new block connectors and insert the harness into the new block. Do not slather it on everywhere because as I said it IS conductive.   Insert your new wire and spade into the new block until it’s fully seated.   Install the block into the firewall and reattach bracket.   Test for blower function on all speeds.   This is also documented in Chrysler TSB # 24-06-97   I hope this works for you! I'm going to do it now!??

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