Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#319 of 411 head gasket ? what do you think
Apr 28, 2011 (10:57 am)
I have a 2000 chevy metro 1.3 it is getting oil in the radiator and smokes white smoke. Engine runs good when cold small amount white smoke when cold when warms up lots of white smoke.No coolant in oil. So i was sure must be head gasket so pulled the head looks like coolant burning in the two cylinders closest to trans. I checked head gasket and i do not see any bad places . could head gasket still be bad or maybe something else what do you think
#320 of 411 Re: head gasket ? what do you think [bsmall1]
by PFFlyer@Edmunds HOST
Apr 28, 2011 (5:00 pm)
Well it certainly seems that the gasket MUST be leaking somewhere, even if it passes the eyeball test. Since you know which two cylinders look like the problem spot, I'd start looking closely there.
#321 of 411 Re: 1996 GEO METROengine problems [lavenderdog]
May 30, 2011 (12:53 pm)
#322 of 411 98 METRO 1.0-INTERMITTENT STARTING ISSUES??? HELP!
Jun 05, 2011 (12:20 pm)
98, Metro, 1.0 liter hatchback, 123,000 miles, Standard 5-speed.
Vehicle generally seems to start fine on most occasions, but intermittently it simply refuses to start - and when it does finally start everything's fine.
On one occasion, while vehicle was in motion, CHECK ENGINE light popped on and vehicle died. Coasted to a lot, waited and after several attempts, it started and everything seemed fine.
I assumed it was starving for gas, but pumping the pedal seems to do nothing.
It seems electrical but I honestly don't know.
Replaced ignition module - still same issue. Any ideas?
#323 of 411 Re: 93 metro 1.0 no start [zaken1]
Jun 15, 2011 (1:01 pm)
I also check the coil in a other car and it work, got the distributor and went to a professional and check it and with the same results, i got a diagram of the car and trase every one of the wiring, and every one is ok, there is some thing call the igniter, con you please tell me were is located, I have a thing that it may be the one, thanks for you time..........
#324 of 411 Re: 98 METRO 1.0-INTERMITTENT STARTING ISSUES??? HELP! [tvmogul]
Jun 15, 2011 (2:01 pm)
Pumping the gas pedal on a fuel injected car like yours serves no purpose; as it does not squirt gas into the motor like it used to do on carburetor equipped cars.
The problem you describe most likely comes from a either a defective crankshaft position sensor or a defective camshaft position sensor. Both of these sensors send signals to the computer about when to produce sparks and trigger the fuel injector. They are known to fail; and when they go out; the motor either stops, or will not start.
There is one potentially complicating factor here; if the oil pan gasket has been replaced with one which is thicker than the original part, it will increase the distance between the crankshaft position sensor and its trigger source. That can prevent the engine from starting. But if the oil pan gasket was not changed around the time this problem began; then just replace those two sensors. I would change the crankshaft position sensor first. If that doesn't solve the problem; then change the camshaft position sensor.
#325 of 411 Re: 93 metro 1.0 no start [jordys]
Jun 15, 2011 (2:17 pm)
The igniter is in different locations on different model cars. Since you responded to a post about someone else's car; I have no way of knowing what model or year car you have. There also may be other parts that you don't know about. So please click the "reply" button and post the vehicle year, model, engine and transmission type that you have. Please also tell me whether the motor stopped while driving; or whether it ran well the last time you used it but now just will not start. Thank you for your cooperation.
#326 of 411 my geo metro
Jun 18, 2011 (12:19 pm)
to zaken1 thanks for you`re help, some how my massage, iit didn`t got completed true, the problem is, i got a weak spark in my geo metro 93, i have changed the coil, distributor cap, rotor, and a new batery, and i have check the distributor with another vehicle and got a big spark, i also got check the cmp, and is ok i feel that i`m in a dark room please advise........
#327 of 411 Re: my geo metro [jordys]
Jun 18, 2011 (1:46 pm)
Thank for the follow up. There are several possible reasons why your spark may be weaker than it should be. But we need to be clear about what you really mean when you say you "have a weak spark." Did you actually check the spark by disconnecting the coil wire from the distributor cap, and holding the end of that wire close to the engine block??? If you did check it directly; what was it that told you the spark was weak? Was it the color; or was it the maximum distance the spark would jump; or was it the sound it made? Or are you saying the "spark is weak" because the engine is hard to start or hesitates when you try to accelerate? Hard starting or hesitation could come from a hundred different things which have nothing to do with the strength of the spark.
So in order to not waste my time or yours; we need to use words that we both understand. You said you had the "cmp" checked. Sorry; but "cmp" could mean compression, or it could mean computer. And I can't read your mind or guess accurately. So, please don't use abbreviations. If you meant that the compression was checked, and it was "OK," do you mean that the person who checked it told you it was OK, or do you mean that you saw the numbers and they were all within 15 pounds of each other? Again; I'm sorry, but this level of information doesn't mean diddly squat to me. Both of those answers would FAIL a compression test!!! Here's why: Most mechanics do not know that the normal compression on a Geo Metro is much higher than the normal compression on other brands of cars. So if they check the compression and find it is between 140 and 150 (which would be good on most other cars); they say it is OK. BUT THAT IS DEAD WRONG; the NORMAL compression on a Metro is 195psi; and the LOWEST allowable compression is 165. If the mechanic gets readings that are all within 15 pounds of each other; they say it is OK; but if ANY of those readings is below 165; that fails the compression test.
If you installed the wrong type of coil; that could have caused it. There are several very different types of coils; which all basically look the same. If you bought the coil new at a parts store; the parts person may still have sold you the wrong coil. The coil that matches your car should look like the one in the following link: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=929505). If the coil you now have does not look like the one in the photo; you have the wrong coil.
If the spark plug cables on your car have aged and developed too much resistance; this would make the spark weak. This applies to the coil wire as well as the plug wires. Did you check the plug wire resistance; or have you installed new wires?
If the spark plugs in your car are fouled, or worn, or are the wrong type, or the gap is set too wide; that would also make the car hard to start and hesitate. But most people can not tell the difference between a worn plug and a good plug, and an improperly gapped plug by looking at it.
I'm sorry to be hard on you in this way. I realize there probably is a language difficulty here, and that you may be dealing with ignorant mechanics. But I still cannot help you unless you give me clear, accurate, and complete information.
#328 of 411 wow, I`m sorry
Jun 18, 2011 (6:29 pm)
thanks, I`m but I think is the only way,..............the compression test where 150 psi in every one of the 3 cyl, and the mechanic is me , jajaajajajajaja but I didn`t know the range of the geo was more than all the others cars, in this afternoon, i got the opportunity of having and other similar car , but two years newer and i chek the quality of the spark and there is no douth abouth it, my spark I can hear it , but can`t see it, and in the other car I can actualy see it, and I did unplug the wired from the top of the distributor cap, and like you said, I put it to the engine block, and check the distance, and the color, and in the distance it was less than 1 cc, and the color was blue but not like the one, I have tried, plus with the compression test I have noticed, that my car fail the test, because what you said, tomorrow I`ll put some oil in every cyl, to get a better compression, and maybe that way I can getted started, I`m very pleased with you help......................thanks very much............JORDY