Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#296 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Nov 07, 2010 (8:50 pm)
I have a possible solution. Good news is it's free and easy to try.
I had a similar problem that drove me nuts. After driving 10-20 miles without a problem I would suddenly lose power and was barely able to keep it going. Drop the car in neutral and it reved up fine. Put it in drive and it would spit-sputter, and barely run. It felt like I was running out of gas, when I knew the tank was full. Under the back seat (inside the car) there is a connector that goes to the fuel pump. A bad connection here is like shutting on and off the fuel pump (or down the road maybe just low fuel pressure as it makes and breaks) After the connection cools down and makes a good connection again the car is miraculously cured til you hit a bump or the connector heats up again.
Connecting a fuel pressure gauge in line and taping it to the window where you can see it will pinpoint or eliminate fuel pressure problems. But for the connector, just clean or replace it and make sure you have a solid connection.
BTW...low gas pressure may not produce any computer code.
#297 of 411 Re: engine decreasses rpm and stop [dan967]
Nov 07, 2010 (8:44 pm)
If you connect a fuel gauge in line and tape it to the windshield so you can watch it as you drive, you can pinpoint or eliminate fuel supply problems. I had a bad connection to the fuel pump under the back seat that drove me nuts. The problem would go an come with no rime or reason. Felt like I was running out of gas with a full tank. Drop it into neutral and the motor reved up fine. Back into drive and it would spit and sputter and barely run.
#298 of 411 '98 starts when cold, dies after 5 minutes, injector shuts off
Nov 18, 2010 (5:58 am)
Owned '98 1.0 5 spd car for 8 years, 130K, problem just started. Will start and run normal when cold for about 5 minutes, then dies, no fuel from injector. After cold start all functions are normal. Have checked out TPS-engine wouldn't run for first 5 minutes throughout range if it was bad, movement looks normal on analyzer, injector measures about .8 ohms, resistor about 2.2 ohms, fuel pressure goes to 21-22 psi with igition, holds, pressure is constant at about 20psi at idle and running and maintains as engine dies. Once it dies, won't restart, no fuel from injector, gauge still will show good fuel pressure with ignition. Good spark at all times. If let alone to totally cool off, will repeat cycle again with perfect start and run for first 5 minutes. Any ideas?
#299 of 411 Re: '98 starts when cold, dies after 5 minutes, injector shuts off [troca]
Nov 18, 2010 (8:14 am)
when no start; Check for injector pulse with a noid light, You can get a free rental of one at Autozone
#300 of 411 post 298
Nov 18, 2010 (11:01 am)
Thanks for the reply, Zenden. I'll check for injector pulse tonight, also other basics loose wire, grounds, relays, etc. If no signal to injector when engine dies suspect ECU? No codes showed at any time through this "cycle" as we were hooked up to the OBD port and watching the whole time.
#301 of 411 Re: post 298 [troca]
Nov 18, 2010 (11:03 pm)
I assume that your car has no AC unit that helps control the idle? if so; I would test injector with a noid light first. If the injector signal is fine. It could be EGR sticking open after it worms up: that is if that car has an EGR; or the Idle Control Air Valve ( IAC ) As the eng warms up it is suppose to idle down the eng. If it closing to far it will stall out; take it out and clean the hole out where the pintle seats also clean the pintle. Do not turn the key on when the IAC valve is unbolted and plugged in. It will over extend and come apart; and good luck trying to put it back together again. Sounds like EGR or IAC to me! When the eng. is running good, ( in this order )shut it off then unplug the IAC Valve, then restart eng; see if that fixes the problem, if so clean or replace the IAC
NOTE: If this car has an air conditioning unit the defroster runs off of AC unit and will affect IAC Valve
#302 of 411 post 298
Nov 19, 2010 (6:11 am)
Well, in usual fashion I went through more of the basics last night and after swapping relays, checking and cleaning the wiring connections under the rear seat, cleaning and checking the ground connections the car started and ran fine at idle for 45 minutes, never died so I never got to check the injector (although if it's running, the inj is working). Now thoroughly warm I took the car out and it ran great. Came back, had something to eat and then took all the test equip off and put it back together and went out and drove it hard for an hour and absolutely no problem. I am getting a better picture, however, as when this problem first surfaced, I had started the car and driven off with no warm up, as I usually do. Even after it seemed fine i noticed what seemed to be a stumble in that short off cold idle but not yet fully warm area and that may be where the problem lies. Normally I'd get much more into the details of this but the car will be scrapped in spring because of rust in the subframe even though it runs great. I'm just looking for 4 months out of it and it appears that if I let it warm up (gauge at normal warm position, takes maybe 7-8 minutes), all is well. Drove it to work, 25 miles freeway, today no issues. EGR moves easily (but don't know if it is actually sealing) and have thought about IAC. No A/C on this car. So for now, I'm learning how to make things work and may look at a few more components as I have time. Thanks for the input.
#303 of 411 Re: post 298 [troca]
Nov 19, 2010 (10:23 am)
Sounds like you fixed it. On my GEO I had a bad wire connection under the back seat one time also; it was doing the same thing as yours. All cars need gas and spark to run. When turning the ignition switch to the on position, cars with electric fuel pumps will activate pump for the first initial 2 to 5 seconds then shut off automatically. When first diagnosing you can hear the pump run thru the tank fill whole, or under the car with your ear to the tank.
By the way I have a manual trans. in my stock 94 GEO Metro LSI 1.0L, I never average less then 63 MPG at a steady 59MPH on a flat road with regular gas. Avg city is 47. You may not want to junk your car in the spring time because of rust. If it is the frame that is rusting near where the left front control arm bolts on you could sand blast and weld a patch to it before it brakes.
Feb 02, 2011 (11:32 pm)
CAN SOME ONE PLEASE TELL ME HOW TO RETIME THE TIMING BELT ON A 1997 GEO METRO LSI 4 CYLINDER ENGINE. IM MOVING OUT OF TOWN ON SATURDAY AND STILL HAVE TO COME TO TOWN TO WORK AND NEED A WAY TO GET BACK AND FORTH AND AS FAR AS I KNOW ITS THE LAST THING TO NEEDED TO BE FIXED. EMAIL ME AT robbiemilton10hotmail.com. ALSO IF YOU HAVE IT SEND ME A DIGRAM AND TELL ME ALL TOOLS I WILL NEED. PLEASE AND THANK YOU
#305 of 411 Re: post 298 [zenden]
Feb 23, 2011 (10:50 am)
I have a 94 Metro and it will not start. Its on the verge of starting. It looks like the Crank Shaft sprocket is bad, but I was told by the dealer that they never go bad and that it is another problem connected to the crank. Do you have any ideas?