Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#288 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [zaken1]
Oct 13, 2010 (12:32 am)
Thanks Guys,for all the good input,&feed back concerning My trubled fuel system.I did manage to find what I belive is the original fuel filter.please correct Me if Im wrong..It as Zaken1 did indacate was located in front of the fuel tank.Im puzzled though.this looks nothing like what i was sold at the parts store,( the one I spliced in up front.) this one is plastic,white ,It is 3&a half inches,bye 2&a half inches& a little under an inch deep.on one side area seris of numbers.then alittle lower are the words SAE. HOPE+PA6.And made in canada.On the other side are images of 3 clocks i belive.when I removed the two hoses from this part there was no fuel on or in either hose.bone dry.&although the part smelled alittle like gas,it too was dry.The screw,or bolt was a real B.....! to get to.almost like a bad joke,please fellas tell Me am I on the right track,or once again learning as I go & in error.Thanks golddreger.
#289 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 13, 2010 (7:39 am)
hey whats up every body?more new news for us all to consider.throu a very good source im being told,some cars from 90s-now are built with out a fuel filter,& 2000 chevy metro happens to be one ofr them.If this new info is true.,then it looks like we can stand to learn somthing here.Right Fellas?Its true none of us are ever to wise,or to old to learn somthing from each other.Late My Friends Im in double over time,&must get My car running.advice is great& I apprecate it,&thank you all.But those who read this who know God please pray for Me.
#290 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 13, 2010 (11:15 am)
Well, I looked up this claim, and found to my surprise that it is right! Apparently, the 1989-96 Geo Metros were made with fuel filters; but the 1997-2001 Chevy Metros did not have fuel filters. Instead of an external fuel filter, they had a fuel pump with a filter screen in the fuel tank. Here's a link to a photo of the 2000 Metro 4 cylinder in tank fuel pump and filter: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=90612).
The other cars I have seen without fuel filters were all 2001 and later; but the Metro seems to have been an exception.
HOWEVER, if your Metro was not made with an external fuel filter; then there would not be anything on the fuel line in front of the tank. If the part you found only had two hoses attached to it, and did not have any electrical wires; it MUST be a filter. So I would connect a clean hose on the inlet end and try blowing through it. If it doesn't easily allow air to pass; then it is clogged and must be replaced. Take the part to a parts store and get the closest filter that will match. Sometimes cars have parts on them which were not supposed to be there. This can happen if a car was reconstructed from used parts after an accident; or if someone modified it. And sometimes the parts catalogs have errors in them.
If the part you found also has an electrical connector on it; that is not a filter; but is the external fuel pump which was used on older Geo Metros. Those fuel pumps sometimes go bad (as.also do the pumps in the fuel tank). You can have the pump pressure and output volume tested by a shop.
#291 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 26, 2010 (4:32 pm)
Problems that come and go with no logical pattern are often electrical connections. I had a bad connection to my fuel pump under the rear seat. Intermittently it would cause the engine to barely run, spit and sputter. After the car cooled off, everything was fine again.The connector was fine most of the time, but when it got hot a poor connection was only making good enough connection to keep the engine barely running. I pushed the connector together tighter and all my problems went away. If I had mounted a fuel pressure gage where I could see it while driving, I'm sure I would have seen the fuel pressure drop low when the problem occurred.
#292 of 411 metro bad milage
Nov 02, 2010 (4:14 pm)
I recently purchased a 91 metro 3cyl 5speed no a/c. I guess it ran ok. I did the usuall tune up plug,wires, cap, rotor,fuel and air filter. It ran a little better. So I started to dig into it further,o2, cts, tps and found 2 things kind of odd. I cannot find the EGR valve and the voltage to the tps is just under 5.....0 at idle...then just under 5 off idle. Voltage should sweep gradually from about 0.5v to 5v, right? To me that sounded like too much. So I replaced the tps. Installed acording to the chiltons spec. Still the same. Just like the old one. I am estimating that my milage will be around 20mpg. Power does not seem to be lacking, a little boggy at take off then runs fine. Just crap milage! Currently 140mi with a quarter tank left. Any help?
#293 of 411 Re: metro bad milage [jmar6]
Nov 02, 2010 (5:15 pm)
The TPS is different on manual transmission cars than on automatic transmission cars. The linear response you expect is only found on the automatic transmission vehicle's TPS. Manual transmission TPSs switch suddenly just off idle; exactly like yours does. There is a second switching point at about 7/8 throttle, which richens the mixture.
The EGR valve is normally mounted on the rear of the intake manifold runner for # 3 cylinder; close to the throttle body. Here's a link to a photo: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=88142). If there is no valve there; but you can see a block off plate on the manifold; then someone has removed the valve. If there is no block off plate on the manifold; then the engine you have was originally intended for a non-US application; or else is a mixture of US and non US spec parts. Such a motor will never run properly; because there is no computer that is calibrated for use without an EGR valve.
Whether or not you locate or install an EGR valve, I would strongly recommend running a compression test on all cylinders. The normal compression pressure on this motor is 195psi. The minimum allowable pressure in any cylinder is 165 psi. If any cylinder pressure is below the minimum limit; the motor will not be capable of producing good fuel economy, regardless of adjustments.
Other things which make this motor impossible to tune properly are the use of an unsuitable spark plug. NGKs just do not run well in Metros. The only plugs that run well in these motors are Champion # 322 (RN11YC4), Bosch Super Plus # 7907, Bosch Platinum # 4219, Autolite # 63 or # AP63, or AC Delco Rapidfire # 4. The plug gap should be checked before installation and adjusted to .041" if necessary.
If the compression is within the above specs; and the recommended plugs are being used; disconnect both vacuum advance diaphragms on the distributor, plug the hoses, and check the ignition timing with a strobe light at idle. It should be set to 6 degrees BTDC at <850 RPM idle speed. Check both vacuum advance units to make sure they do not leak or bleed down when a vacuum is applied. Check the centrifugal advance mechanism by turning the rotor counterclockwise by hand to make sure it moves through the entire range of travel without binding; and springs back to the retarded position when it is released. If all the above items are correct, and the mileage is still that poor; the fuel injector is probably leaking at the seals. Rock Auto has an exchange process for reconditioning Metro injectors.
#294 of 411 Re: metro bad milage [zaken1]
Nov 02, 2010 (6:33 pm)
I will check compression in the next couple of days. And will look for a block offplate for EGR. I know what one looks like and it is not there. I did put NGK plugs in, will change back to the bosch that I took out, they did not look bad. The car also has new exhaust from manifold, cat, muffler. I will keep you posted.
#295 of 411 Re: metro bad milage [jmar6]
Nov 03, 2010 (3:54 pm)
Checked the compression today and holy sh_t!!! My guage must be wrong...100 on all three. I do not belive that for a second... I am used to driving with hp under my foot and this 1600lb, 3cyl, 5sp has enough hp to cruise 70 with little pedal and then some. There is no block off for the EGR. It just does not have one.still 22mpg is better than my 460 gets so I guess I can not bitch. Run it until it blows, then run it over with my truck with the 460. All the componets test out whith-in spec, but it still idle hunts....anymore input?
#296 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Nov 07, 2010 (8:50 pm)
I have a possible solution. Good news is it's free and easy to try.
I had a similar problem that drove me nuts. After driving 10-20 miles without a problem I would suddenly lose power and was barely able to keep it going. Drop the car in neutral and it reved up fine. Put it in drive and it would spit-sputter, and barely run. It felt like I was running out of gas, when I knew the tank was full. Under the back seat (inside the car) there is a connector that goes to the fuel pump. A bad connection here is like shutting on and off the fuel pump (or down the road maybe just low fuel pressure as it makes and breaks) After the connection cools down and makes a good connection again the car is miraculously cured til you hit a bump or the connector heats up again.
Connecting a fuel pressure gauge in line and taping it to the window where you can see it will pinpoint or eliminate fuel pressure problems. But for the connector, just clean or replace it and make sure you have a solid connection.
BTW...low gas pressure may not produce any computer code.
#297 of 411 Re: engine decreasses rpm and stop [dan967]
Nov 07, 2010 (8:44 pm)
If you connect a fuel gauge in line and tape it to the windshield so you can watch it as you drive, you can pinpoint or eliminate fuel supply problems. I had a bad connection to the fuel pump under the back seat that drove me nuts. The problem would go an come with no rime or reason. Felt like I was running out of gas with a full tank. Drop it into neutral and the motor reved up fine. Back into drive and it would spit and sputter and barely run.