Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#284 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 09, 2010 (10:08 am)
If your spark plugs haven't been replaced in the last 30,000 miles; this would definitely cause the symptoms you're reporting.
If the original fuel filter (located underneath your car on the fuel line, on the drivers side in front of the fuel tank) became clogged up with dirt; cutting the fuel hose under the hood and splicing in a new filter there will do absolutely nothing to make the fuel flow through the old, plugged up filter: So the fuel line is still plugged up!!! You need to replace the original fuel filter with a new part that is designed to fit in the original location.
#285 of 411 No start on 93 Metro. Blown fi fuse
Oct 10, 2010 (7:09 am)
80K mile and very little problems until now. Cruising down the hwy 60 mph and engine died with no advance systems. Main 60 amp fuse and 15 amp FI fuse were blown. I have replaced the 60 amp and it seams fine. But when I replace the 15 amp FI fuse it blows at once. So its diffently a dead short. Cranks fine but no spark. No power to coil. Any Ideas out their. Could the coil in the throttle body injector have shorted out? I'm not sure where to start except to follow out the fi wiring circuit with a test light to see what I can find but cannot power the circuit up?
#286 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 10, 2010 (3:27 pm)
First check your oil, if it is very low it may shut down the system. If there are no trouble codes stored check for ignition spark, then test for signal at injectors with a noid light, it can be loaned to you from AutoZone for free. If all are ok do a fuel pump test; First listen under the car or in the fuel tank fill for the pump to come on when you have someone turn the key too the ignition position. The pump will come on for 2 too 5 seconds. If you here the pump come on then you need to test for pressure. Part of a pressure test is to test the pressure regulator; you can test for a malfunction of the regulator by overriding it. There are 2 fuel lines attached to the fuel rail 1 thick and the return line that is thin; squeeze the small fuel line with a pair of vice grips attached, then try to start the car. if it starts then you need a fuel pressure regulator. If no start then the next step is to test the pressure. A car needs a few things to run. enough fuel pressure, a signal to the injector, compression, proper valve timing, a strong enough ignition spark; preferably blue or white in color that will jump a half inch or more, and a battery that is strong enough to crank the eng. Test for these things and I will answer more questions. Good luck
#287 of 411 Re: No start on 93 Metro. Blown fi fuse [heavyhook]
Oct 10, 2010 (10:37 pm)
I suppose the injector driver coil could have shorted out; but that is rather unlikely. You could check that by disconnecting the harness plug for the injector, and then replacing the fuse to see if it blows again when the key is turned on. But I also would suggest disconnecting the power wire to the alternator, and then replacing the fuse and seeing whether it still blows.
There is also a finned silver colored heat sink mounted on the firewall or the driver's side inner fender next to the fuse box; which contains the injector resistor. I think that part is more likely to have shorted out than anything else.
#288 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [zaken1]
Oct 13, 2010 (12:32 am)
Thanks Guys,for all the good input,&feed back concerning My trubled fuel system.I did manage to find what I belive is the original fuel filter.please correct Me if Im wrong..It as Zaken1 did indacate was located in front of the fuel tank.Im puzzled though.this looks nothing like what i was sold at the parts store,( the one I spliced in up front.) this one is plastic,white ,It is 3&a half inches,bye 2&a half inches& a little under an inch deep.on one side area seris of numbers.then alittle lower are the words SAE. HOPE+PA6.And made in canada.On the other side are images of 3 clocks i belive.when I removed the two hoses from this part there was no fuel on or in either hose.bone dry.&although the part smelled alittle like gas,it too was dry.The screw,or bolt was a real B.....! to get to.almost like a bad joke,please fellas tell Me am I on the right track,or once again learning as I go & in error.Thanks golddreger.
#289 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 13, 2010 (7:39 am)
hey whats up every body?more new news for us all to consider.throu a very good source im being told,some cars from 90s-now are built with out a fuel filter,& 2000 chevy metro happens to be one ofr them.If this new info is true.,then it looks like we can stand to learn somthing here.Right Fellas?Its true none of us are ever to wise,or to old to learn somthing from each other.Late My Friends Im in double over time,&must get My car running.advice is great& I apprecate it,&thank you all.But those who read this who know God please pray for Me.
#290 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 13, 2010 (11:15 am)
Well, I looked up this claim, and found to my surprise that it is right! Apparently, the 1989-96 Geo Metros were made with fuel filters; but the 1997-2001 Chevy Metros did not have fuel filters. Instead of an external fuel filter, they had a fuel pump with a filter screen in the fuel tank. Here's a link to a photo of the 2000 Metro 4 cylinder in tank fuel pump and filter: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=90612).
The other cars I have seen without fuel filters were all 2001 and later; but the Metro seems to have been an exception.
HOWEVER, if your Metro was not made with an external fuel filter; then there would not be anything on the fuel line in front of the tank. If the part you found only had two hoses attached to it, and did not have any electrical wires; it MUST be a filter. So I would connect a clean hose on the inlet end and try blowing through it. If it doesn't easily allow air to pass; then it is clogged and must be replaced. Take the part to a parts store and get the closest filter that will match. Sometimes cars have parts on them which were not supposed to be there. This can happen if a car was reconstructed from used parts after an accident; or if someone modified it. And sometimes the parts catalogs have errors in them.
If the part you found also has an electrical connector on it; that is not a filter; but is the external fuel pump which was used on older Geo Metros. Those fuel pumps sometimes go bad (as.also do the pumps in the fuel tank). You can have the pump pressure and output volume tested by a shop.
#291 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 26, 2010 (4:32 pm)
Problems that come and go with no logical pattern are often electrical connections. I had a bad connection to my fuel pump under the rear seat. Intermittently it would cause the engine to barely run, spit and sputter. After the car cooled off, everything was fine again.The connector was fine most of the time, but when it got hot a poor connection was only making good enough connection to keep the engine barely running. I pushed the connector together tighter and all my problems went away. If I had mounted a fuel pressure gage where I could see it while driving, I'm sure I would have seen the fuel pressure drop low when the problem occurred.
#292 of 411 metro bad milage
Nov 02, 2010 (4:14 pm)
I recently purchased a 91 metro 3cyl 5speed no a/c. I guess it ran ok. I did the usuall tune up plug,wires, cap, rotor,fuel and air filter. It ran a little better. So I started to dig into it further,o2, cts, tps and found 2 things kind of odd. I cannot find the EGR valve and the voltage to the tps is just under 5.....0 at idle...then just under 5 off idle. Voltage should sweep gradually from about 0.5v to 5v, right? To me that sounded like too much. So I replaced the tps. Installed acording to the chiltons spec. Still the same. Just like the old one. I am estimating that my milage will be around 20mpg. Power does not seem to be lacking, a little boggy at take off then runs fine. Just crap milage! Currently 140mi with a quarter tank left. Any help?
#293 of 411 Re: metro bad milage [jmar6]
Nov 02, 2010 (5:15 pm)
The TPS is different on manual transmission cars than on automatic transmission cars. The linear response you expect is only found on the automatic transmission vehicle's TPS. Manual transmission TPSs switch suddenly just off idle; exactly like yours does. There is a second switching point at about 7/8 throttle, which richens the mixture.
The EGR valve is normally mounted on the rear of the intake manifold runner for # 3 cylinder; close to the throttle body. Here's a link to a photo: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=88142). If there is no valve there; but you can see a block off plate on the manifold; then someone has removed the valve. If there is no block off plate on the manifold; then the engine you have was originally intended for a non-US application; or else is a mixture of US and non US spec parts. Such a motor will never run properly; because there is no computer that is calibrated for use without an EGR valve.
Whether or not you locate or install an EGR valve, I would strongly recommend running a compression test on all cylinders. The normal compression pressure on this motor is 195psi. The minimum allowable pressure in any cylinder is 165 psi. If any cylinder pressure is below the minimum limit; the motor will not be capable of producing good fuel economy, regardless of adjustments.
Other things which make this motor impossible to tune properly are the use of an unsuitable spark plug. NGKs just do not run well in Metros. The only plugs that run well in these motors are Champion # 322 (RN11YC4), Bosch Super Plus # 7907, Bosch Platinum # 4219, Autolite # 63 or # AP63, or AC Delco Rapidfire # 4. The plug gap should be checked before installation and adjusted to .041" if necessary.
If the compression is within the above specs; and the recommended plugs are being used; disconnect both vacuum advance diaphragms on the distributor, plug the hoses, and check the ignition timing with a strobe light at idle. It should be set to 6 degrees BTDC at <850 RPM idle speed. Check both vacuum advance units to make sure they do not leak or bleed down when a vacuum is applied. Check the centrifugal advance mechanism by turning the rotor counterclockwise by hand to make sure it moves through the entire range of travel without binding; and springs back to the retarded position when it is released. If all the above items are correct, and the mileage is still that poor; the fuel injector is probably leaking at the seals. Rock Auto has an exchange process for reconditioning Metro injectors.