Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#276 of 411 Re: 1992 geo metro rear wheel bearing breaks every 4 days [zenden]
Sep 02, 2010 (8:37 pm)
i hope this is it... i questioned him on what replacement parts he used and it seems they were using 1990 geo metro and not geo metro 1992 xfi. as there were 2 different part numbers, so i hope this is it, and i'll update in a month if it works. it was close enough that it lasted about 1.5 months the third time,,( 3600 miles),, then the 4th time only about 25 miles. ()
Sep 19, 2010 (1:07 pm)
my 92 Geo metro 1.0 liter automatic last week lost a lot of power while i was driving down the road something just happened so i checked the plugs and they were fine and the distributor cap was fine to and while idling in park and in drive the engine shakes pretty bad. the check engine light is also on. what are some things i can do to narrow down the problem.
#278 of 411 Re: engine problem [big1reagan]
Sep 19, 2010 (2:43 pm)
You can, of course, retrieve the trouble code that triggered the check engine light and look up its meaning. That would require you to do some research on how to short the check connector to retrieve trouble codes, and also to get a list of trouble code meanings on OBD1 Metros. But this information is commonly available in the Metro service manual and on many online sites. Once you have this information; you'll be that much more self sufficient.
Another thing you can do is to run a cylinder compression check. The stock compression pressure on this motor is 195psi. If any cylinder pressure is below 165psi; or if there is more than 15% difference between any 2 cylinder pressures; the motor will have to be repaired mechanically (which usually requires reconditioning the cylinder head) before it can run properly.
A clogged fuel filter can also cause such a problem; so I would replace the fuel filter (located along the fuel line under the car, on the driver's side, just in front of the fuel tank). There is a metal cover plate underneath the fuel filter, which is held on by two or three bolts. It usually is helpful to remove the right rear tire to access the filter. You'll also need some golf tees, bolts, or similar items to plug the fuel hose when the filter is disconnected. Otherwise; lots of gasoline will run down your arm and onto the ground (especially if there is a lot of fuel in the tank).
I would also recommend measuring the resistance of the spark plug cables with an ohmmeter. There should be less than 1,000 ohms for each inch of wire length. If the resistance of any wire exceeds that standard; replace all the wires (including the coil wire).
The vacuum hose that runs from the back of the intake manifold on the passenger side to the MAP sensor on the firewall may have fallen off or broken. The wiring harness electrical plug at that sensor may also have come loose. Or any other vacuum hose may be leaking.
The EGR valve may have stuck partly open; so it would be worthwhile to reach under the EGR valve diaphragm, and work the diaphragm through its entire range of travel to make sure it opens and closes freely. If it binds; the EGR valve should be removed and thoroughly cleaned.
If you make all of the above checks and they all come out OK; I would question your observation that the plugs and distributor cap were good. Sometimes a spark plug can develop a tiny whisker of carbon between the electrodes. That can completely shut down a cylinder. Other times, if the plug gap has eroded to the point where it is too large; the plug can suddenly stop firing; but will still look good. Also; if you use NGK plugs in this motor, they are known to lose insulation resistance and suddenly quit for no apparent reason. For this reason; I always recommend that people not use NGK plugs in Metro motors. The preferred plug is Autolite # 63, or Autolite platinum # AP63, or # APP63. The plug gap should be set to 1.0mm (.039").
Metros can be extremely sensitive to the insulation of the distributor cap or rotor. A tiny carbon track on the inside surface between two contacts will shut down 2 cylinders. A crack in the rotor underneath the blade will do the same thing. There are several cheap replacment brands of Metro caps which will misfire when they are brand new. So I will either buy a Borg Warner # C716, or Beck Arnley # 1746959 cap from Checker, Shucks, Kragen, Murray, or O'Reilly, along with a Borg Warner # D682 rotor; or spend a bunch more to buy a comparable quality Echlin # EP854 cap and EP855 rotor from a NAPA parts store.
The timing belt might have jumped out of position; causing this type of problem; but that is much less likely than the above possibilities.
#279 of 411 Re: engine problem [big1reagan]
Sep 19, 2010 (4:31 pm)
If the timing belt slipped; the compression on ALL the cylinders would be below the minimum allowable limit (even if the valves and head were in good condition). If you find the compression to be low like this; turn the crankshaft pulley (this may require a wrench on the crank pulley bolt or turning the alternator or water pump pulley) until the timing marks line up at about 5 degrees BTDC. Then remove the distributor cap and see where the tip of the rotor is pointing. The rotor should either point straight up (to the distributor cap terminal for the # 1 cylinder plug wire) or straight down (to the distributor cap terminal for the # 3 cylinder plug wire). If the crank pulley is set on 5 degrees BTDC and the rotor doesn't point exactly to one of those two terminals; but instead points anywhere else; the timing belt has jumped out of position; and it will have to be replaced. After the timing belt is replaced and properly tightened and positioned; the compression should return to normal. But replacing the timing belt will not improve the compression in a motor where the timing belt has not jumped out of synch.
#280 of 411 Re: engine problem [big1reagan]
Sep 19, 2010 (8:21 pm)
Sounds like a dead miss; I would guess the check eng light was on before the eng started missing. That is because a 92 GEO ECM wont detect a dead miss and set a code. So if I am right don't worry yet what code is stored. Just go back to the basics first, Test for spark at each plug; the easiest way is before starting the eng make sure that all plug wires are easy removable from the Distributer cap ( the easier, the better.) The reason for this is, I will teach you how to remove each spark plug wire from the cap while it is running without getting a shock. The reason for testing this way, is to listen for the variation of the speed of the eng while idling. The more variations (as in slowing down or cutting out) when pulling off a wire the stronger that cylinder is. The less of a variation (as in no change) in RPM then that is the dead cylinder; and needs farther investigation; (as in a cracked bad plug bad wire, cracked cap or bad rotor.)
Never pull off a plug wire from a spark plug when running, only pull them from the distributer cap side. This is because the power is looking for the best or closes conductor of ground, and you don't want to be it. By pulling it from the cap when running you will not get a shock unless you get between the two connecters that you have separated. Just keep your cool pay attention and amaze your friends that watch: you can become confident with this and learn from your mistakes; with a little conmen sense and practice you can test your eng better and faster then your mechanic that is amassed at how you do this. You must hold a grip on the wire about 1 inch behind the boot and pull it off while it is running. I always make sure that my other body parts are not touching the car and that I am not bare footed or standing in water. I am sure that you think that I am joking But I am not, I have been doing this for 43 years and have not been shocked since I was 16 years old. I am just giving you a most useful tip that identifies a miss. You should not do this on the more sophisticated electronic controlled automobiles; but you can do this on your GEO and it wont mind. If when you pull a wire there is no spark or variation, then you have a bad wire or something wrong under the cap that is preventing the completion of the power to that plug. If you pull the wire half way off and watch the spark jump and you here the eng clear up and run good while watching the spark jump, then it is a bad plug or something cause that plug to not spark well, low compression because burnt or stuck valve, or carbon sticking that valve open a little or a big list of things that can cause compression loss. Also at times improper fuel mixture to that Cyl. from a vacuum leak or a combination of things creating an imbalance and picking on the weakest one. The GEO 3 cyl needs all three to be strong; If not! you will surely feel that imbalance.
I hope that I have made all of this clear for you to understand; any questions about it just ask. Please let me know how it goes. Good luck!
#281 of 411 2001 geo cranks but will not start
Sep 21, 2010 (7:20 pm)
My 2001 Metro died yesterday it was 135000 miles on it. It cranks over but will not start. Up to this point it ran fine. It would some times have a surging feeling when you would be driving along. It has been doing that for a couple of years on and off. It looks as thought the timing belt is ok. I tried to hook up an ODBII scan tool and it would not communicate with the computer. I check the ODB and it works fine in other cars. Where do I start?
#282 of 411 Re: 2001 geo cranks but will not start [threegtoman]
Sep 21, 2010 (9:25 pm)
The crankshaft position sensor has probably failed. This is an easy part to change. It is available under Borg Warner part # CSS70 for $77.99 from Checker, Shucks, Kragen, Murray, or O'reilly auto parts store.
Another, less likely possibility is that the fuel pump relay has failed.
#283 of 411 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out
Oct 09, 2010 (4:55 am)
a month or so ago after filling the tank.with 87 g fuel.i jumped on freeway on ramp, as i begain to accillerate,the motor started cutting out in bad way..so i punched even harder & more demanding thinking &hoping this was goingto be a quick tempory faze .do to alittle dirt or maybe bad gas.it sputtered some more almost vilently,then it smoothed out &i got on down the road &my day &didnt give it another thought ,that day...then two days later on an early morning donut run almost as soon as i begain to drive it was back in a worse way i couldnt keep it running kep t dieing as soon as i attemped to put it in drive.i had it towed to alocal shop which tried chargin me 90 bucks &could nt find any thingv wrong .i discovered my cusion terry who owns a shop & installed the new rebuilt motor didnt install a fuel filter...so i spliced anew one in.& it seemed to resolve the issue for a day.so i then re placed the pricy little camshaft positon senser.& that resolved the ssue for almost twob months or so.the last week or so its been leading back to it &as of last nite.after filling up on gas its back!!! help fellas&or gals if any one can lead me in a good way to resolving this b.s.id be gratful.its driving me crazy.peacen& have a good day every body.
#284 of 411 Re: 2000 chevy metro 4cyl.30.000 on rebuild.cutting,out [golddreger]
Oct 09, 2010 (10:08 am)
If your spark plugs haven't been replaced in the last 30,000 miles; this would definitely cause the symptoms you're reporting.
If the original fuel filter (located underneath your car on the fuel line, on the drivers side in front of the fuel tank) became clogged up with dirt; cutting the fuel hose under the hood and splicing in a new filter there will do absolutely nothing to make the fuel flow through the old, plugged up filter: So the fuel line is still plugged up!!! You need to replace the original fuel filter with a new part that is designed to fit in the original location.
#285 of 411 No start on 93 Metro. Blown fi fuse
Oct 10, 2010 (7:09 am)
80K mile and very little problems until now. Cruising down the hwy 60 mph and engine died with no advance systems. Main 60 amp fuse and 15 amp FI fuse were blown. I have replaced the 60 amp and it seams fine. But when I replace the 15 amp FI fuse it blows at once. So its diffently a dead short. Cranks fine but no spark. No power to coil. Any Ideas out their. Could the coil in the throttle body injector have shorted out? I'm not sure where to start except to follow out the fi wiring circuit with a test light to see what I can find but cannot power the circuit up?