Ask the Car People.SM


Geo Metro Engine Questions

410 messages,  Last post on Feb 09, 2013 at 7:23 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible

    

Messages Page 27 of 42

#259 of 410 Re: Timming problems [trmechan] by zaken1

Jun 19, 2010 (2:02 pm)

Replying to: trmechan (Jun 19, 2010 11:37 am)
There are two different types of distributors which were used on the 1.0 motor. The 1989-1991 motors used a distributor with a dual diaphragm vacuum advance unit that had 2 vacuum hoses; the auxiliary advance diaphragm (outer hose on the distributor) was connected to a spigot on the cyl # 1 intake manifold runner, and the main advance diaphragm (inner hose on the distributor) was connected to the center spigot of the three spigots on the lower front edge of the throttle body. Later model throttle bodies (on engines that did not have vacuum advance distributors) only had 2 vacuum spigots; the one closer to the passenger side is used for the EGR system; while the one closer to the driver's side is used for the vapor purge cannister.
 
The 1992 and later models used a distributor which does not have vacuum advance, and instead has an electronic advance circuit. With this distributor; the vacuum spigot on the # 1 cylinder intake runner should be capped off, and if there are three vacuum spigots on the throttle body; the center one should be capped.
 
In this situation, I would first make sure the timing notch on your crankshaft pulley is really at TDC. That can be done by lining up the pulley notch with TDC on the degree scale on the timing cover. Then pull the spark plug in # 1 cylinder, insert a 1/4" rod into the plug opening, and rock the crank pulley in both directions while holding the rod; to see if the piston comes up any further than where it was when the timing marks were lined up. If the timing marks are true; you can trust them for use in further tests. But if the marks are not correct; the pulley may be the wrong model; or the Woodruff key may be missing or broken. If the key is not in place; the mark may be able to move around, which would make it impossible to set the timing accurately enough to tune the rest of the settings. So you'd need to fix that issue before going further.
 
I'm going to give you a little more information here, but please do not apply it until you've gotten the timing marks to be trustworthy.
 
Have you tried connecting a timing light to # 1 cylinder, and seeing where the timing is when the engine is idling as slow as possible (with any vacuum hoses disconnected from the distributor and plugged). If your motor has the electronic advance distributor, the check connector terminals next to the firewall on the driver's side should be shorted together with a jumper wire or a paper clip to disable the electronic advance circuit, before checking the timing. The stock ignition timing on the 1.0 motor is 6 degrees BTDC 750 RPM or less.
 
The normal plug wire positions are; the # 1 cylinder (closest to the fan belt) plug wire is at 12 o'clock on the distributor cap. The # 3 cylinder (closest to the distributor) plug wire is at 8 o'clock on the cap. And the # 2 cylinder (center cylinder) plug wire is at 4 o'clock on the cap. The distributor rotor rotates counter-clockwise.
 
If you've checked and applied all the above information; and the motor still does not run with the distributor set in the normal range; see where the ignition timing now runs best when checked with a strobe timing light. If it is advanced a lot (notch on the pulley is further to the left than the stock setting on the degree scale) from the stock setting; then move the timing belt back to the stock setting, and try moving all the plug wires one position clockwise in the cap, and then turn the distributor back to the stock range. See if it now runs well like that.
 
But with the timing belt still set one tooth off; if the motor now runs best when the ignition timing is very retarded from the stock setting (mark on the pulley is located to the right on the degree scale from the stock mark); set the timing belt back to the stock position, and move the plug wires one position counterclockwise on the distributor cap, and then turn the distributor back to the stock range. See if it now runs well like that.
 
Let me know how it all turns out.

#260 of 410 Re: Timming problems [zenden] by trmechan

Jun 21, 2010 (12:53 pm)

Replying to: zenden (Jun 19, 2010 6:27 am)
For Zenden and Zaken1 I think I found the problem. Will checking cam timming once again, and checking timming marks on crankshaft I found that the key for the crank gear was broken. Both the gear and the crank are badly worn from the key working around. Know I will have to decide what to do with the vehical.
Fix or Junk.
Thanks to both of you for your very good and experienced help.

#261 of 410 engine decreasses rpm and stop by dan967

Jul 20, 2010 (10:15 pm)

Hi,
I have a Chevrolet Geo Metro sedane, 1,3 ltr, 1997 and I have this problem :
Sometime when outside is very hot, durring the summer time, and I drive slowly(trafic) the rpm decreases and the engine stop. When I start again the engine, that run perfect another 30 seconds and after this the problem start again. My mechanic scan the engine and find evrything perfect. No Error code. I already chek the EGR valve, the catalizator and the IDLE control solenoid, and all this is perfect.
Can somebody help me, please?

#262 of 410 engine decreasses rpm and stop by dan967

Jul 20, 2010 (10:16 pm)

Hi,
I have a Chevrolet Geo Metro sedane, 1,3 ltr, 1997 and I have this problem :
Sometime when outside is very hot, durring the summer time, and I drive slowly(trafic) the rpm decreases and the engine stop. When I start again the engine, that run perfect another 30 seconds and after this the problem start again. My mechanic scan the engine and find evrything perfect. No Error code. I already chek the EGR valve, the catalizator and the IDLE control solenoid, and all this is perfect.
Can somebody help me, please?

#263 of 410 Re: engine decreasses rpm and stop [dan967] by zaken1

Jul 20, 2010 (11:43 pm)

Replying to: dan967 (Jul 20, 2010 10:16 pm)
This could be caused by several different things. The first thing I would do is to replace the fuel filter and the air filter. If that does not solve the problem, I would replace the spark plugs, the distributor cap and rotor, and the spark plug wires. It is very important to only use the following recommended spark plugs. Most spark plugs will be too hot for this motor, and will break down (especially in hot weather). I would not copy whatever plug is now being used; but would instead recommend Autolite # 63, or # AP63; or ACDelco # R42XLS or ACDelco Rapidfire # 4; or Bosch Super Plus # 7901 (WR7DC+); or Champion # 415 (RN9YC). Some of these are not the numbers recommended in the books; but I have found that many manufacturer's recommended plugs for the Metro are too hot for this motor; and the plug numbers listed here are the ones I know from my own experience will work properly. The plug gap should be set to .039" (1.0mm).
 
The ignition timing on this motor cannot be properly checked or adjusted without first disabling the electronic spark advance circuit (by shorting the check connector terminals). If the timing is adjusted without first disabling the electronic advance; it will end up being set too far retarded. And that could cause the problem you describe.
 
Let me know what you try, and what the results are.

#264 of 410 Re: engine decreasses rpm and stop [zaken1] by dan967

Jul 21, 2010 (2:59 am)

Replying to: zaken1 (Jul 20, 2010 11:43 pm)
Thank you zaken1 !!
I want to tell you that I just changed from 3-4 months the fuell pump, the fuell filtrer,the air filtrer and the distributor cap and rotor. Now I will check what you sugest me and I will call you back.
Thanks zaken1 !

#265 of 410 Re: engine decreasses rpm and stop [dan967] by zenden

Jul 21, 2010 (3:43 am)

Replying to: dan967 (Jul 20, 2010 10:16 pm)
It sounds like a an idle air control problem (IAC). If this be the case, it would be doing it when the eng is trying to find its correct idle point; not when your foot would be on the gas. Dose the problem start happening when your foot is off the gas? When it starts doing it, will it clear up and run right when you push back on the gas if the RPM is above 600 or so, but not if below 600? To figure out if I am on the right track; Question: Hot or cold, does this car have any abnormalities in its idle control? If so,. Have a mechanic test the values of air intake Temp, coolant temp, TPS, AC/ idle control and in accordance with its idle stop setting. Any one of the above and more may not set a code. Possibly your mechanic dose not have the correct scan tool to properly diog., or did not take the time to test. I would like zaken1 to farther assist you on this if possible. I do not always receive my emails and or have limited time to respond. Thank god for Smell check!

#267 of 410 geo metro 2000 diagnostic and ignition problems by aaron42

Jul 29, 2010 (10:59 am)

when ever i try to turn on i have to try a couple of times until it actually does, then after it turns on i run it and everything is fine, it is not til the engine get hot to running level that if i stop it will turn off, then i have a hard time turning it on , it takes a while and many tries for it to turn on. or if i drive somewhere and the engine is hot and i park and then try to turn it back on after a couple of minutes, it also wont turn on.
 
my check engine light is on and i took it to auto zone to get it checked and they told me that they where not picking up a signal from the car. so basically my question is, has anybody had this problem and had it fixed. or is there a fuse that can be replaced so that the diagnostic can be read

#268 of 410 Re: geo metro 2000 diagnostic and ignition problems [aaron42] by zenden

Jul 29, 2010 (1:21 pm)

Replying to: aaron42 (Jul 29, 2010 10:59 am)
It is not a fuse that is bad! Most of the time if we can not communicate with a car it is because there is a bad ground in the diagnostic connector circuit. Or a cheep scan tool that is being used to test with; or a tool that is not compatible to interface with your system. If I where you and wanted to diog. my own car the cheapest way possible. I would find a mechanic who does diagnostic work everyday; approach him about an hour before closing shop. Ask him if he would have the time to be able to scan your car for you before he closes today. Many mechanics don't mind helping if they only had the time to, and scanning your car is quick and easy; Finding the fix is the time consuming. To do a scan, where I live, would be a small charge of $20.00 or less, most of the time; No Charge at all.

Messages Page 27 of 42

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement