Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#226 of 411 Re: geo metro needs parts [duskwatr2000]
Apr 07, 2010 (9:25 pm)
You can buy parts like rocker arms for your Metro from a Chevrolet dealer. But if the reason you think your car needs rocker arms is because they are making clicking noises; it is probably not coming from bad rocker arms. Instead, clicking noises in the Metro's valve gear usually come from bad hydraulic valve lifters. Many small cars do not use hydraulic valve lifters; but the Metro does. These lifters are very sensitive to dirt in the oil, and will stick and make noise if the oil has not been changed often enough, or if low quality or non detergent oil has been used.
Although Rock Auto does not carry Metro rocker arms; they do carry hydraulic valve lifters. The part number for the 1995 1.3 motor is Beck Arnley # 0227001. Price is $11.82 each. Intake and exhaust lifters are the same. This is a part which is very risky to buy used; because they are so vulnerable to dirt, and also because they wear in to match the mating parts on the engine in which they are used. If you put used lifters in a Metro; they will probably cause trouble.
#227 of 411 Re: geo metro needs parts [zaken1]
Apr 09, 2010 (9:13 am)
Why, if the engine overheated, could there be oil in air filter box?
What actually happens?
Because I have a 91 Geo Metro/1.0L/A/T/133,000 miles and I did have this over heat on me and there is oil in air filter box!
Thank you for any help!
#229 of 411 Re: geo metro needs parts [gregmy123]
Apr 10, 2010 (5:37 am)
Most likly blown head gasket or scored cyl. walls.
#230 of 411 Re: geo metro needs parts [gregmy123]
Apr 10, 2010 (1:44 pm)
There is a vent hose for the crankcase vapor; which runs from the valve cover to a "T" fitting that connects between the PCV valve and the air cleaner housing. Under normal conditions, most of the oil vapor is drawn into the engine through the PCV valve. But there is also a minor amount of vapor which goes into the air filter housing. A motor which is in good mechanical condition will not generate enough oil vapor to clog the air filter; but over time, there will still be a visible amount of oil left in the air filter housing. As the engine's pistons, rings and cylinder walls become more worn, the quantity of combustion gasses which get past the pistons and enter the crankcase will increase; and thus the amount of oil deposited in the air filter housing will increase. One measure of the engine's mechanical condition is how often the air filter housing (and throttle body bore) needs to be cleaned of oil deposits. I would say that if the oil deposits need to be cleaned out more often than about every 3 months; the engine is excessively worn.
But, if the PCV valve becomes plugged or restricted; the vapor which normally goes through the PCV valve will instead go into the air filter housing. And that can make it appear that the motor is bad; when it is not. So I would always remove, clean, and test or replace the PCV valve, before assuming that the engine is producing excessive oil vapor. If too much oil is put into the crankcase; the same thing can happen.
When an engine overheats; it can cause detonation (violent combustion) which can damage the pistons, rings, cylinder walls, valves, and/or head gasket. The heat can also cause distortion of the precisely machined cylinder bores and the head sealing surface. If any of these parts are permanently damaged; it will often lead to excessive "blow by" of combustion gasses past the pistons and into the crankcase. And the large quantity of oil vapor produced under such conditions will quickly flood the air filter housing and clog the air filter; even when the PCV valve is working correctly.
This is why it requires judgment to decide whether the presence of oil in the air filter housing is a sign of a problem; or not.
#231 of 411 geo metro runs to rich after replacing bottom part of engine
Apr 30, 2010 (4:43 am)
we replaced the bottom half of the engine, had a hard time timing it and now it seems like it is running to rich, flooding itself, it is a geo metro lsi 1991, help!
#232 of 411 Re: geo metro runs to rich after replacing bottom part of engine [skeeter012]
Apr 30, 2010 (8:36 pm)
Often when rebuilding, people forget the importance of reconnecting the ground wires to the engine; I am speaking of the small wires that connect the ECM to the eng; it bolts on to the rear of the plentum below the throtle body; it is connected with a 10 MM bolt. Or it sounds like the timming is retarded. You said that you had trouble setting the timming; I assume that you meant the distributor, and not the belt! Also maybe the spark plug wires are in the wrong place; each one maybe inserted into the cap to far to the counterclockwise position; If this is what is wrong then the eng. would run but have no power at all, the eng would lope and idle low. Move each one to the next hole in the clockwise direction. and turn the Distributor clockwise all the way, as far as it will go. If the eng wont start but kicks back or backfiers out the intake, turn the distributor in small increments counterclockwise to retard. If it backfires out the exaust then it is to far retarded. If it backfires no mater where you set the dist. after changing the wires then put the wires back where they where, and look for the reason for the trouble. a potato in the exost or cloged cat will do the same thing as you discribed.
Let me know what you find. Hope that somthing that I said will help
#233 of 411 TIMMING?
May 09, 2010 (12:32 pm)
i have a chv metro 1998 1.3L that i am replacing the timing belt i have a repare book but it dos not show the timing marks on the cam shaft or the crank shaft when replacing the timing belt? HELP?
#234 of 411 2000 Metro 1.3L Idle after Rebuild - To Fast?
May 09, 2010 (6:11 pm)
I just rebuilt the engine on my 2000 Chevy Metro (valve job, pistons, rings, bearings) and when I finished putting it together and started it (started instantly). The idle is about at freeway speeds. Throttle butterfly is all the way closed. It runs smoother then ever, just way to fast. Before the rebuild, it idled fine, other then rough from a cracked and some burnt valves. One time, after letting rev for about 5 seconds, it started to slow then went slow and fast with a 1 or 2 second cycle. I've been turning it off after 4 or 5 seconds since I have brand new everything inside and wish to run it slow for a while. Any thoughts on what it could be? Air flow sensor on intake, crank sensor??
Thanks in advance.....
#235 of 411 Re: 2000 Metro 1.3L Idle after Rebuild - To Fast? [torakki]
May 10, 2010 (11:54 am)
There is no air flow sensor on this motor. But if you did not connect all the idle air control valve hoses to the right places; there could be a massive vacuum leak into the intake manifold; which is what this sounds like to me. An EGR valve that stuck open or is being actuated at idle could also do this. Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose to the EGR valve. If the throttle return spring has not been connected, this could do it, too. So could a PCV valve which was not in place, or a power brake booster vacuum hose which was left off.
If the distributor was timed too far advanced, this could also do it. And if someone had broken the seal on the throttle stop screw and used it to speed up the idle when the valves were bad, that screw will now have to be turned back to the correct position (which is about 1/4 turn open from a completely closed throttle butterfly.)