Last post on Nov 18, 2013 at 12:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible
#205 of 411 Re: 1990 Geo Metro Convertable Engine Will Not Start. [cj7jeeper]
Nov 14, 2009 (12:36 am)
Before you start testing for spark anywhere; it is essential to understand that you cannot jumper across the ignition switch on a Metro to make the engine run. There is an anti theft circuit built into this electrical system which shuts down the spark if you jumper across the ignition switch (even when the key is turned on). So you must have all the wiring connected in the stock routing.
A> The next thing to check is to remove the distributor cap and have someone watch the rotor while the engine is being cranked. If the rotor does not turn steadily as the engine is cranked; then the timing belt has broken or slipped out of position. If the rotor does turn; then turn the crankshaft until the timing marks line up at the 6 degrees BTDC position. At that position; the tip of the rotor should either be pointing STRAIGHT UP, OR STRAIGHT DOWN. If it points anywhere else; the timing belt has jumped out of position.
You say you have no spark; but you didn't specify the location where you found there was no spark. This can be critically important; because the spark can be blocked by something as basic as a defective ignition switch. If that were the case; and you hadn't first checked to see if there was battery supply voltage at the coil positive terminal, you could spend a fortune replacing every part in the entire ignition system, and never see any improvement. So, to do ignition diagnosis properly, and avoid needless waste of money; you need to start at the source, and then work step by step along the entire path from the battery to the spark plug..
B> Make sure you're getting full battery power to the coil; and confirm a voltmeter reading with a large bulb (24 watt stoplight or equivalent) to be sure that the voltage is maintained when an appreciable current is being drawn from the power source. A bad test reading could come from high internal resistance in the ignition switch, or a poor connection between the battery ground cable and the engine; or between the battery ground cable and the inner fender. There MUST be a solid conection between the battery and BOTH of those points.
C> If you get a confirmed voltage and power supply at the coil; check the igniter by connecting a good, old fasioned point dwell meter between ground and the coil negative lead. Crank the starter; and you should see a dwell reading of somewhere between 25% and 75% of the maximum number of degrees on the scale. So, if you had the dwell scale set to 8 cylinders, where 45 degrees is the maximum possible reading; you should get a reading somewhere between 11 degrees (which is about 25% of 45) and 33 degrees (which is about 75% of 45). If you use the 6 cylinder dwell scale, where 60 degrees is the maximum possible reading; your reading should be between 15 degrees and 45 degrees. It really doesn't matter which number of cylinders scale you use; it is only the PERCENTAGE of the full scale reading that we care about, and that will be the same regardless of which dwell scale is used.
D> If the dwell meter test comes out good; then test for spark directly between the coil high voltage terminal and ground. First check the resistance of the coil to distributor cap high voltage wire with an ohmmeter. The resistance should be less than 1,000 ohms per inch of wire length (so a 12" long wire should have less than 12,000 ohms resistance, etc. If the resistance is greater than that; replace the entire set of plug wires.) Just hold the end of the coil to distributor cap wire about 1/4" to 1/2" from a metal part on the engine (with your hand at least 6 inches back from the end), and crank the motor. If there is no spark in that test and all of the previous tests were good; then either the coil is defective (or the wrong model part for this car) or the distributor pick up coil is defective (even though you said it tested good).
E> If you have a spark at the coil, but not at the plugs; then with the distributor cap off and the rotor in place, hold the end of the coil wire next to the metal blade on the rotor while the engine is cranked. There should NOT be a spark to the rotor in this test. If there is a spark; the rotor is grounded and must be replaced.
F> If the rotor tests good, and there is no spark to the plugs; then either the distributor cap or the plug wires are bad.
G> Whenever there has been a lot of driving with an ignition problem; the spark plugs can build up conductive deposits which will then make the engine run badly; even after the problem is fixed. So it is always good insurance to replace the plugs.
Please note that Metro engines are highly sensitive to both plug brand and gap setting. I strongly recommend avoiding NGK plugs in this motor (although I use them on other vehicles where they are an appropriate choice) and suggest using only Autolite # 63, ACDelco # R42CXLS, Champion Truck Plug # 4430, or Bosch # 4306 platinum +2, or Bosch Fusion # 4506.
I hope this helps!!!
Nov 17, 2009 (6:25 pm)
I recently changed plugs and wires on my daughters 2000 metro 4-cylinder. I was confused by how many wires needed changed. I told her to go buy plugs/wires, she came back with 4 plug wires but I only saw 2 that I could change. The other 2 just have wires (not plug wires) that connect to other plugs.
One more thing, does the 2000 metro have a fuel filter and a mass air flow sensor?
#207 of 411 Re: Plugs/Wires [nljewell]
Nov 18, 2009 (6:42 am)
"One more thing, does the 2000 metro have a fuel filter and a mass air flow sensor?"
2000 CHEVROLET METRO 1.0L 3-cyl Engine Code 
Fuel Filter WIX 33569 Fuel Filter
#208 of 411 We have to replace head in 1990 Geo metro and we need advice
Nov 23, 2009 (7:24 am)
We have to replace cylinder head in 1990 Geo Metro because it had a crack and we bought a used cylinder head from another 1994 Geo metro in which there are 2 valves which are burnt.
Here are my questions.
1.Can we use the good valves from our old cracked head ?or we should buy all new valves?
2.Replace only those 2 burned valves? or replace them all?
3.What is the best way to check this new head and valves that it is going to last for some time?
#209 of 411 99 metro lsi
Dec 24, 2009 (12:25 pm)
My mother has a metro 4cyl with auto trans. been running great still does however a noise has come up and until I can confirm what it is she'd not driving it.
The noise is like a metal rattling sound when the engine is running. It sounds over near the belts, so the pass side of the car. I listen sloser to the engine and it sounds within right near the belts.I noticed something sounded funny weeks ago but now the sound is much louder.
#210 of 411 Re: 99 metro lsi [cafann]
Dec 26, 2009 (4:24 am)
May be the crankshaft pulley. These models are known for this problem. There are other posts on this site describing it. I have a 96 Metro with the same problem. If it hasn't already, it will eventually cause the car to run rough because the wobbling pulley throws the crankshaft position sensor off. There is a post on this forum outlining a do-it-yourself fix. I haven't tried it yet, but plan on it in the spring.
#211 of 411 stand alone engine
Dec 26, 2009 (3:21 pm)
hey folks, I am new here and I am looking to find some one who can tell me if the geo engine can be used as stationary power scorce. If so dose it matter what year.Would appreciate any help I can get. Thank you in advance.
#212 of 411 1997 Geo Metro lsi randomly acts like fuel starved
Jan 18, 2010 (9:50 am)
I have a 1997 Geo Metro lsi with the 1.3L 4 cylinder engine. It starts and runs great. Has about 230,000 miles on it but after warming up and driving maybe about 30 miles it acts like it runs out of gas. I pump the gas a few times and it runs ok for a while longer or does it again after a few miles. The local repair shop can find nothing wrong but, did reproduce the problem. They put a fuel pressure gauge on it and ran it. The fuel pressure is good even when this happens. I have changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, wires, rotor, cap and even the coil. It also "seems" to be worse when driving in rain or fog, if that would make any difference.
Today it totally quit on my. I coasted over to the side of the road, turned off the ignition and restarted it and drove the next 10 miles (about) to work without any problems (my total commute is 66 miles one way).
Any ideas as to what to check???
#213 of 411 Which front struts to buy for convertible metro.
Feb 22, 2010 (7:20 pm)
While shopping online I see many different part numbers for shocks and struts for my 92 metro. I know the convertible has 13" wheels, so does that affect which front strut to buy. The KYB's have a different strut for left or right side but the other manufacturers don't. What's up with that? The monroes have three different struts for this year car, so which one is the right one?
#214 of 411 1989 Geo Metro LSI Wont Start
Feb 25, 2010 (6:12 am)
I got this car from a friend for nothing , he said he drove it home shut it off and it wouldnt start back up again. It cranks gets gas has good spark. what should I look for now ? Heck I got the car for Free I really cant go wrong , it doesn't look like it a very compacated engine.Thank you for your time reading this post.