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Geo Metro Engine Problems

208 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 7:24 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible

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#196 of 208 Re: check engine, wheres the OBD 1 connection? [drewkohls] by zaken1 Aug 21, 2009 (11:42 am)
Replying to: drewkohls (Aug 20, 2009 2:16 pm) When the check engine light comes on under the conditions you listed; it almost always is caused by the "insufficient EGR" code. That can be triggered by too lean a fuel mixture, or too much spark advance, or intake or exhaust modifications, or a clogged or disconnected EGR valve; any of which can cause the motor to run at such a small throttle opening that the EGR valve does not receive enough of a vacuum signal; so it does not open as far as it normally would. If the compression is too low; it can also set that code. These engine will not tolerate changes from stock specs.   The code readout is turned on by shorting two terminals in the fuse block under the dashboard; but it's been so long that I forgot where the terminals are. Sorry about that. It's in the service manual. Replies to this message: drewkohls (Aug 23, 2009 4:52 pm)
#197 of 208 Re: 89 LSI BLUES.......needing some input [riversidedan] by zaken1 Aug 21, 2009 (11:48 am)
Replying to: riversidedan (Aug 20, 2009 4:17 pm) It sounds like the reason they put extensions on the plugs was because they were fouling from all the oil the engine was burning. There is no way to tune out the consequences of low compression. So since that is probably the root of the problem here; run a compression check on all 3 cylinders. Stock compression on that motor is 195 psi. If any cylinder is below 170 psi; you'll never be able to make it run right without an overhaul.
#198 of 208 Re: check engine, wheres the OBD 1 connection? [zaken1] by drewkohls Aug 23, 2009 (4:52 pm)
Replying to: zaken1 (Aug 21, 2009 11:42 am) I do not have an EGR valve though. Some 89 models didn't have them, when i rebuilt the head because i had a burnt exhaust valve i started to look for why the valve burnt. the first thing i looked to replace was the EGR valve and there was none. so i did some research. I believe the valve burnt because the catalytic converter was improperly installed by the previous owner. I believe the timing is supposed to be 6 degrees or something like that. I cant remember for sure but i can check within the week, do you remember what the timing specs are? also, This happened a day after my cousin installed a radio in the car, it previously did not have one and had the harness cut. Could something have shorted? because now the light has not come on at all in 2 days
#199 of 208 3 cylinder to 4 by buzz11 Sep 08, 2009 (2:52 pm)
is it possible to swap a 96 4 cylinder and drop it into a 98 with a 3 cylinder
#200 of 208 93 geo metro by curt16 Sep 16, 2009 (9:46 am)
I'm looking at buying a 93 metro but it has low compression in the third hole is this a burnt valve and how would I check this or does it just need a new motor
#201 of 208 Re: blows oil pulled head & have burnt valve [roguerambler] by russ7707 Sep 16, 2009 (5:32 pm)
Replying to: roguerambler (Jan 10, 2007 9:21 am) i had same problem new set of rings and stainless valves and it will last you a long time cost of my job 1000.00
#202 of 208 '92 3-cyl into a '95 by handiman47 Sep 21, 2009 (5:24 pm)
I need to replace to 3 cylinder engine of my '95. Will a 3-cylinder and trany from a '92 drop right in or do I need to bring along the cv axles, hub-knuckle assemblies, and struts?
#203 of 208 2001 Metro ingnition problem by amontyg Oct 07, 2009 (7:13 am)
Bought the car a year ago and had to replace the fuel module to get it running, and it has been running strong, however occasionally the fuel pump will not come on and bring the fuel system to pressure when the ignition is turned on. The way i get around this is simply to turn the key back and fourth four or five times and eventually the pump will kick on. The pump corresponds with the check engine light. in other words when the pump is not working the check engine light will not come on before the car is started and when the pump does work the check engine light will come on and turn off as soon as the car started. this is what makes me think it is an ignition problem. possibley a switch somewhere? have any of you encountered this before? or at least what is your guess at what the problem is?
#204 of 208 1990 Geo Metro Convertable Engine Will Not Start. by cj7jeeper Nov 09, 2009 (5:49 pm)
My son limped home my Geo and it has not started since. It cranks, all cylinders have good pressure, Have fuel no spark. Tested Coil and it reads good. I do not have a crank P/U. The distributor pick-up coil test good, The distributor ignitor may be the problem...I am unable to check at this time and can't find info on how to test. Is there anything else that I could check before I buy parts? Replies to this message: zaken1 (Nov 14, 2009 12:36 am)
#205 of 208 Re: 1990 Geo Metro Convertable Engine Will Not Start. [cj7jeeper] by zaken1 Nov 14, 2009 (12:36 am)
Replying to: cj7jeeper (Nov 09, 2009 5:49 pm) Before you start testing for spark anywhere; it is essential to understand that you cannot jumper across the ignition switch on a Metro to make the engine run. There is an anti theft circuit built into this electrical system which shuts down the spark if you jumper across the ignition switch (even when the key is turned on). So you must have all the wiring connected in the stock routing.   A> The next thing to check is to remove the distributor cap and have someone watch the rotor while the engine is being cranked. If the rotor does not turn steadily as the engine is cranked; then the timing belt has broken or slipped out of position. If the rotor does turn; then turn the crankshaft until the timing marks line up at the 6 degrees BTDC position. At that position; the tip of the rotor should either be pointing STRAIGHT UP, OR STRAIGHT DOWN. If it points anywhere else; the timing belt has jumped out of position.   You say you have no spark; but you didn't specify the location where you found there was no spark. This can be critically important; because the spark can be blocked by something as basic as a defective ignition switch. If that were the case; and you hadn't first checked to see if there was battery supply voltage at the coil positive terminal, you could spend a fortune replacing every part in the entire ignition system, and never see any improvement. So, to do ignition diagnosis properly, and avoid needless waste of money; you need to start at the source, and then work step by step along the entire path from the battery to the spark plug..   B> Make sure you're getting full battery power to the coil; and confirm a voltmeter reading with a large bulb (24 watt stoplight or equivalent) to be sure that the voltage is maintained when an appreciable current is being drawn from the power source. A bad test reading could come from high internal resistance in the ignition switch, or a poor connection between the battery ground cable and the engine; or between the battery ground cable and the inner fender. There MUST be a solid conection between the battery and BOTH of those points.   C> If you get a confirmed voltage and power supply at the coil; check the igniter by connecting a good, old fasioned point dwell meter between ground and the coil negative lead. Crank the starter; and you should see a dwell reading of somewhere between 25% and 75% of the maximum number of degrees on the scale. So, if you had the dwell scale set to 8 cylinders, where 45 degrees is the maximum possible reading; you should get a reading somewhere between 11 degrees (which is about 25% of 45) and 33 degrees (which is about 75% of 45). If you use the 6 cylinder dwell scale, where 60 degrees is the maximum possible reading; your reading should be between 15 degrees and 45 degrees. It really doesn't matter which number of cylinders scale you use; it is only the PERCENTAGE of the full scale reading that we care about, and that will be the same regardless of which dwell scale is used.   D> If the dwell meter test comes out good; then test for spark directly between the coil high voltage terminal and ground. First check the resistance of the coil to distributor cap high voltage wire with an ohmmeter. The resistance should be less than 1,000 ohms per inch of wire length (so a 12" long wire should have less than 12,000 ohms resistance, etc. If the resistance is greater than that; replace the entire set of plug wires.) Just hold the end of the coil to distributor cap wire about 1/4" to 1/2" from a metal part on the engine (with your hand at least 6 inches back from the end), and crank the motor. If there is no spark in that test and all of the previous tests were good; then either the coil is defective (or the wrong model part for this car) or the distributor pick up coil is defective (even though you said it tested good).   E> If you have a spark at the coil, but not at the plugs; then with the distributor cap off and the rotor in place, hold the end of the coil wire next to the metal blade on the rotor while the engine is cranked. There should NOT be a spark to the rotor in this test. If there is a spark; the rotor is grounded and must be replaced.   F> If the rotor tests good, and there is no spark to the plugs; then either the distributor cap or the plug wires are bad.   G> Whenever there has been a lot of driving with an ignition problem; the spark plugs can build up conductive deposits which will then make the engine run badly; even after the problem is fixed. So it is always good insurance to replace the plugs.   Please note that Metro engines are highly sensitive to both plug brand and gap setting. I strongly recommend avoiding NGK plugs in this motor (although I use them on other vehicles where they are an appropriate choice) and suggest using only Autolite # 63, ACDelco # R42CXLS, Champion Truck Plug # 4430, or Bosch # 4306 platinum +2, or Bosch Fusion # 4506.   I hope this helps!!!

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