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Geo Metro Engine Problems

208 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 7:24 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Fuel System, Convertible


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#165 of 208
Re: 89 metro 5th grear struggle [zaken1] by zenden
May 17, 2009 (9:27 pm)
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Replying to: zaken1 (May 17, 2009 8:33 pm)

What you said sounds like good advice! As for the PCV and EGR comment that I made, that was in refrance to anouther post; Not this (5th grear struggle post). He could also check the resistance on the ignition coil.
#167 of 208
Re: 1989 geo metro LSI fast idle [zenden] by mageo
May 18, 2009 (10:37 am)
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Replying to: zenden (May 12, 2009 8:20 pm)

Thanks again for the help. I've only had the car for a few weeks, my first one. So I'm new to the machine. But really in every gear there seems to be a sweet spot for accelerating that I can't push past until the car matches in speed and RPM's. Once past the optimal running speed in that gear I can then floor it and have it accelerate. The exception is in the 5th gear. I thought well if the load is just to much for that speed I might be able to compensate by flooring it past the optimal speed to shift from 4th to 5th and then jump to 5th to have it be a better working speed. Doesn't work. I have added an oil additive and will see if that helps a little. If it does then I think it's safe to assume it's a compression problem and I'm SOL for a quick fix.
The gas gauge doesn't work very well so I'm still waiting to see how far I can go on a tank till I add the fuel system cleaner and see how that changes things.
 
P.S. all testing is done on level road highways.
#168 of 208
97 geo metro pinging by thetimadator
May 18, 2009 (8:31 am)
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97 metro 3 cyl , 1.0 liter, is pinging at part to full throttle after it is warmed up. have not messed with timing at all. the car has 156,000 on it and when i did a compression test it came up as follows: #3 90psi; #2 120psi; #1 125psi; i'm gettin a cat efficiency below threshold code. i replaced plugs and wires and pcv valve. any ideas? i'm sure there's about a 1001 different problems as usual. lol. so throw me some ideas folks. haha.
#169 of 208
Re: 97 geo metro pinging [thetimadator] by zaken1
May 24, 2009 (11:31 am)
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Replying to: thetimadator (May 18, 2009 8:31 am)

There is ONLY ONE problem which is behind this situation; your compression is WAY out of specs. With compression that low (assuming your gauge is not defective) there is no way on earth you'll ever make the engine run right. The minimum compression spec is over 150 PSI; and the original compression in that motor was 195 PSI. So it's time to bite the bullet, and at least overhaul the cylinder head; but it probably will require redoing the whole engine.
 
What you describe as "pinging" seems to me to be very likely the sound of one or more broken piston skirts or broken rings.
 
FYI; you can get a premium quality remanufactured engine for the Metro for an outrageously cheap price; from Hiperformer Engines in Spokane Washington. They have a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty; and the last time I checked the price, it was about $1,300 plus shipping: www.hiperformer.com
#170 of 208
Re: 1989 geo metro LSI fast idle [mageo] by zaken1
May 24, 2009 (11:44 am)
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Replying to: mageo (May 18, 2009 10:37 am)

You know; what you just wrote rang a bell in my head: It sure sounds like your clutch pedal free play has all gone away; and the clutch is just beginning to slip. When this first happens, it will only be noticeable under the heaviest loads; and that would be in 5th gear. So try loosening the adjusting nut on the end of the clutch cable to give about 1 to 1.5 inches of free play at the clutch pedal when it is all the way up; and then tell me whether this clears up the problem!!!
#171 of 208
1989 metro valves by drewkohls
Jun 02, 2009 (10:34 am)
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I have an 89 metro 3 cylinder 5 speed and it ran pretty good when i first got it about a week ago. it has some exhaust issues such as a cat converter that has been poorly clamped into place by the P.O and a muffler that has been rusted out almost completely through the bottom of it and sounds like a fart can. It ran fine until i went and past a fellah doing 45 in a 55. It's a small 3 cylinder so i went and goosed it a little bit and after i got around him and got her into 5th it started to kinda sputter a little bit and hesitate. I thought maybe my cousin had moved one of my plug wires, i had stopped and checked everything out and it seemed fine, then it started to sound like i was running on 2 cylinders, i limped her home and started diagnostics on it. Compression reads, #1 120 psi, #2 15 psi, #3 120 psi. I put some oil in all cylinders and no improvements, so i burned some valves. Was it likely my exhaust that is the cause of this? or EGR valve? i'm new to these fuel miser's.
#172 of 208
Re: 1989 metro valves [drewkohls] by zenden
Jun 02, 2009 (8:11 pm)
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Replying to: drewkohls (Jun 02, 2009 10:34 am)

 In my experience I have never heard of a valve burning out suddenly like that. I have seen a head gasket do that. It could be a valve is stuck open from a peace of carbon that may have broke loose when you goosed it; if this be the case then the small chunk of carbon would be stuck between the valve and its seat keeping it from sealing. Usually in a short period of time it would have broke lose by its self and then run fine again . To me it sounds like a peace of the spark plug may have broken off in the cylinder and broke or bent a valve, maybe even piston damage with it. Some times a piece of the porcelain in the spark plug can crack off and cause damage in there. To tell if it is a intake valve take the air breather off and the coil wire off; crack the throttle open just a hair and crank it over. If it is a intake valve you will hear it breathing back out of the throttle body pretty bad. You can do the same with the exhaust, but it will be harder for you to here the abnormal sound on your car because your exhaust system has leaks. If the exhaust was sealed tight and not leaking you could simply test a bad exhaust valve by putting a dollar bill up to the exhaust pipe it will keep sucking it up in the pipe and blowing it back out as it is idling. I hope some of these tips help. Maybe some one else has some better ideas, I would like to here them.
  
OH! I see! You said 15 Lbs if this is a true reading then was the car pinging when you pushed on it , if so it could be a broken piston from pre detonation.
      Dennis
#173 of 208
Re: 1989 metro valves [drewkohls] by zaken1
Jun 02, 2009 (10:27 pm)
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Replying to: drewkohls (Jun 02, 2009 10:34 am)

Take a look at the spark plug that came out of the cylinder that had low compression. If that plug is different in appearance from the other two plugs, or is obviously damaged; try replacing it. I would also measure the resistance of the plug wire for that cylinder (should be less than 1,000 ohms per inch of wire length) and check the rotor and the inside and outside surface of the distributor cap for cracks or carbon tracks.
 
As Zenden said; sometimes carbon can become stuck underneath a valve. That is particularly likely if you goose an engine that has not been driven hard recently. So it might be worth running some liquid graphite through the air intake. But the normal compression for that engine is 195 psi; and the minimum allowable pressure is 155 psi; so it does seem obvious that the compression is WAY out of the ballpark.
 
The only good solution for low compression is to overhaul the head, or the entire engine. The lowest price and highest quality remanufactured engines for Metros come from a place called Hiperformer Engines in Spokane, Washington. They have a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty. This company does all the engines for NAPA stores; and has the lowest rate of warranty returns in the industry. They charge about $1,300 for a completely remanufactured 3 cylinder Metro motor, and can ship anywhere in the US at affordable rates: www.hiperformer.com
#174 of 208
Re: 1989 metro valves [zaken1] by drewkohls
Jun 03, 2009 (10:07 am)
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Replying to: zaken1 (Jun 02, 2009 10:27 pm)

I was going to run a flow test on it but i cant find the fitting. But I didn't hear any pinging or anything when i got on it. But the 15 psi is only when the engine is warmed up. I changed the plugs to be sure that they were all new and the troubled cylinder's old plug was completely fouled, carbon, oil and the center electrode was shrunk it seemed. I ran some valve medic through the oil and that helped the other two cylinders a smidge and now they are up to 130 or there about but the #2 is still at 15 warm. I dont and didn't hear any funny noises coming from the engine indicating any predetonation or a busted piston or piston skirt. and The car doesnt run hot at all though and there isnt any water in the oil or visa versa, so i don't think it could be a head gasket, i guess it's hard to tell sometimes because different cars react different ways. Actually, thinkin about it, it very well could be a head gasket. It wasn't pinging before this problem, and it runs a bit better when it's warm so when the head and block expands it would seal a smidge better. and the low compression on the #2 would cause the other 2 cylinders to lose compression also because it is in the middle of the 3 correct? I guess i won't know until i can do the flow test. I'll get to looking for that fitting i suppose. What do you guys think? You guys seem like you've had these cars for awhile. I love these things but they are just like Beetles and Corvairs, they have their personalities that you have to be in tune with or else basically. I love it lol. Thanks for your help fellahs.

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