- #128 of 208
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1997 geo metro for sale
by bogeyplyr
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Feb 04, 2009 (8:03 pm)
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I am selling my 97' metro just had it tuned up new wires new plugs new ignition coil
new muffler. new battery. 1.3l 4 cyl. 4 door sedan tires are decent.
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- #129 of 208
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Re: System running too rich bank 1 [kaseyw]
by bogeyplyr
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Feb 04, 2009 (8:08 pm)
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Replying to: kaseyw (Jan 17, 2009 4:05 pm)
If it didnt give a tps code or map sensor code with that description its a good chance of a bad O2 sensor computer is compensating for this and sending too much fuel.
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- #130 of 208
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1991 Geo Metro Convertible Fuel Probelms
by joanjett1
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Feb 09, 2009 (5:46 am)
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Fuel isnt getting to the engine. If I pour fuel into the engine it will run, but it isnt getting fuel from the pump to the engine. I have change the fuel filter. When I turn on the key I do not hear the fuel pump kick on. However, I dont know if the Fuel relay fuse is bad or the pump itself. Is there a way of testing the relay before replacing the pump? I want the pump replacement to be my last resort. Is there a mechanism that will switch the pump off in an accident? I had a minor front end damage when this began happening.
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- #131 of 208
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not starting and sucking engine oil into air
by speedmotion
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Feb 16, 2009 (9:14 pm)
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I took my 99 metro 1.3 4cyl to get the timing belt done and now it won't start, so I have replaced the ECM, Head gasket, head bolts,Cam shaft sensor and thermostat. It still won't start after reading a few comments we just got it to start but it is sucking oil into the intake so shut it off and tried to restart... won't turn over. What is going on? Any ideas?
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- #132 of 208
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Re: not starting and sucking engine oil into air [speedmotion]
by opelgtgary
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Feb 16, 2009 (10:56 pm)
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Replying to: speedmotion (Feb 16, 2009 9:14 pm)
These engines seem very temperamental. I still haven't figured mine out yet and it sounds like you've gone through the exact same thing I have with no real success. All I can offer is check your spark to make sure you're getting a good strong light for several engine cycles on all cylinders - not just the first crank. My engine is not getting sustained spark and I haven't trace it to any specific component yet. The engine analyzer is worthless as it doesn't even show an error code. I'm troubled however, with the oil getting into the air passage on your engine. Sounds like severe blow-by through the valves, could be caused by a valve either sucked into the cylinder (happens very often with the funky valve keepers in the 1.3L 16v slightly misaligned at installation), or a badly burned valve and worn valve guides. If your engine won't physically turn over (locked) don't force it - that will cause even more damage - especially if you have pieces of valve in the cylinder. Check your catalytic converter replacement schedule - once again these engines are prone to catalytic converter collapse with overuse, causing backpressure and overheating in the exhaust valves and eventually burning the exhaust valve(s) and dropping compression. School of hard knocks speaking loudly here. 
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- #133 of 208
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Re: 2000 Hatchback Sputter-And-Zoom Problem [alniter]
by metroguy
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Mar 03, 2009 (6:00 pm)
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Replying to: alniter (Oct 15, 2008 9:23 am)
Hello,
I have a 1999 Chevy Metro LSI (130K miles) with a 4 cylinder engine and a 5-speed transmission. I have experienced a similar problem to what you have described when the weather was cold. Typically, I start and drive the car for a few miles and when I stop at a stop light, the engine starts misfiring (sputtering) when I begin to accelerate. I have discovered that when this happens, I will find water droplets on the spark plug boots down inside the valve cover. If I wipe the water off, the problem all-but disappears after driving a short distance. It doesn't seem to happen when the weather is warm. My only guess so far is that the water droplets are caused by condensation in the spark plug bores, but I have no idea why. I have replaced the spark plugs (which all had very wide gaps) and considered replacing the spark plug wires. But when the weather warms up, the problem pretty well disappears. I am curious if there is a technical service bulletin about condensation inside the spark plug bores???
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- #134 of 208
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Re: My 1997 Geo Metro LSI that dies on the freeway when you slow down [masterb]
by spades77355
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Mar 04, 2009 (10:39 am)
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Replying to: masterb (Mar 20, 2008 8:41 am)
I dont know if you will see this, but did you ever solve the problem with your Geo? I am having the same problem.
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- #135 of 208
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Re: 2000 Hatchback Sputter-And-Zoom Problem [metroguy]
by zenden
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Mar 04, 2009 (8:47 pm)
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Replying to: metroguy (Mar 03, 2009 6:00 pm)
I checked for TSB’s for you, there are none for that that symptom. The only thing that I can think of that would cause this is the spark plug boot must be leaking at the top and is letting air get in and condensing. I would try OEM wires for that specific vehicle this should fix the problem. Most likely you live in an aria that has a lot of moisture at times and need a set of factory OEM wires; they can be purchased at any auto parts store for about 25% more then the cheep ones. From my knowledge of cars over 40 years I have seen some strange things, one of witch is that aluminum engines and or aluminum parts on engines that have pockets of trapped air, at times have a tendency to condensate moisture and cause problems; as in, under the valve cover! I am not sure why this happens at times with aluminum. It is possible that your engine temperature is to low and needs a thermostat; or for the most part you only use this car for short runs in turn the engine never reaches a high enough temp long enough to burn off the accumulated moisture and the trouble compounds its self. The same thing can happen to an exhaust system on a car. Old people sometimes only get 500 miles out of a new muffler with in 2 years it rusts and falls off of the car, and they cant figure out why. Also by the way! (if you do not know this already) and you suspect that your engines thermostat is not bringing your engine up to normal operating temperature; then you should replace it immediately. I hope that some of this info will help. Zen..
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- #136 of 208
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Re: My 1997 Geo Metro LSI that dies on the freeway when you slow down [spades77355]
by zenden
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Mar 04, 2009 (9:21 pm)
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Replying to: spades77355 (Mar 04, 2009 10:39 am)
I think that it is one of two things T.P.S. has a dead spot in it. Or the fuel pressure regulator is bad. You did not state what engine size that you have so I can not give to you the Specs. on your fuel pressure so that you can test it. The fuel pressure regulator runs off of vacuum when you hit the gas with your foot the throttle body opens up, in turn you lose vacuum and it builds more fuel pressure! When you let off the gas, you build vacuum, but lose fuel pressure because it is not needed as much. Do a fuel pressure test running at an idle only, I think that you will find the problem is there. If you have to replace that regulator make sure that the new one tests out within Specs. of its upper limits; because if it goes over, it can make that GEO never give that good MPG again, and know one will ever know why! Zenden
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- #137 of 208
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Re: 2000 Hatchback Sputter-And-Zoom Problem [zenden]
by metroguy
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Mar 06, 2009 (6:20 pm)
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Replying to: zenden (Mar 04, 2009 8:47 pm)
Thanks for the input on the possible cause of condensation on the spark plug boots and for checking for TSB's. I will replace the plug wires and see what happens. The weather will probably stay warm from now on, so I may not be able to fully determine if the new wires truly solve the problem or not, but at 130K, it was about due for some new wires anyway. I know aluminum conducts heat much better than steel or cast iron, so that might have something to do the tendency to promote condensation, but this one has really been a puzzler...
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