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Safari/Astro Window/Door Issues

28 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2009 at 12:24 AM
You are in the GMC Safari & Chevy Astro Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: spike99 (Nov 10, 2007 7:24 am)
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Replying to: droptastro (Nov 16, 2007 8:16 pm) Thanks.
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Replying to: atarifan49 (Oct 07, 2007 5:47 pm)
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Replying to: ProblemKia (Apr 13, 2009 12:17 am) Lesson learned from all this: use jumper leads to test the power window motor to confirm it is bad before changing. Changing out the window motor is quite a painful experience because they are riveted into the door frame. Check the functionality of the window switches too to make sure they are good too. |
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Replying to: kntheboys (Mar 22, 2008 8:11 pm) Lesson learned from all this: use jumper leads to test the power window motor to confirm it is bad before changing. Changing out the window motor is quite a painful experience because they are riveted into the door frame. Check the functionality of the window switches too to make sure they are good too. |
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hi all, new to this forum but look very promising to resolve issues I have with my 99 Astro (160K miles) 1. Power windows went out around for lunch since about 70K miles. At that time, estimates I got to replace the motor was about $300 each side. So it left it alone. Recently while search on web, I saw pair of motors for Astro power windows $50. Wonder how "simple" is it to replace them myself (I'm no expert with cars). 2. Passenger seat the back rest adjustment bar came off from the seat. Now I'm stuck with the bucket seat's back in a single position. Can it be fix or need to replace the whole seat? 3. Some of the radio/cassette button lights (1,2,3,4, ...) is not working anymore, is that another whole sale replacement of the entire radio unit or something can be done to have it fix? 4. There's a very strange problem when running th AC unit. At time (not always) while the unit is running, all of sudden there's no air flow coming out but I can hear the fan is still going. And then it can be 2 to 15 seconds, the air comes back again. The air is cool. When the air flow is cut off, it sometime appears to be when the vehicle is on the uphill run. Although it not always the case. I had the AC unit checked out, and that small vacuum hose leading to/from the resuvior replaced but the problem came back. Any thoughts, idea or suggestion would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
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Replying to: croom74 (Apr 17, 2009 11:22 am) I'm on my third window motor on the drivers side. If you've never replaced a window motor before, the job may be a bit more than you bargain for depending on your mechanical abilities. On the other hand, it's not brain surgery either. You'll need a special tool to pop the plastic door "clips" out. These clips hold the door panel onto the metal door frame. There are a few screws, torx head if I remember correctly, that also need to be removed. The door regulator and motor are riveted in place from the factory so you'll need to drill the rivets out. A new motor comes with screws and sometimes rivets as well. I have a Haynes repair manual and to be quite honest, it doesn't really give you a very good idea of how involved replacing the motor can be. You will have to rely mostly on your ability to figure it out as you go. The last motor I installed came from e-bay. $20.00. I don't recommend buying a motor from e-bay. This motor barely moves the window. While it's true that I could have returned the motor for another one, the problem is that then you have to wait for a replacement motor to arrive, then you have to do the job a second time. My advice is to try to find a GM dealer that might sell the motor at a reasonable price (good luck). At the very least, try to buy it from a local auto parts store that can provide you with an OEM motor. At least that way, if you get a bad replacement motor, you can take it right back for an exchange... assuming that they didn't have to special order the part in the first place. Before you go out and buy a motor, you should make sure that the problem is not something like a bad switch or a bad ground as explained in earlier posts on this thread. Wish you lived in my neck of the woods-- I'd do both sides for you for half of what your estimate came to. One last thing, I recommend you buy just one motor if you think you are going to attempt this repair. That way, your only out the money for the one motor in case you get in too deep. Hope this is helpful advice and I wish you good luck if you do decide to have a go at it. Steve
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Replying to: Steve_01 (Apr 17, 2009 1:21 pm) That's a really good advise. If I have to get special tools and drill out in order to get parts out, it sounds like I should be prepare to have an alternative transportation in case I'm stuck half way on the job. I might have to stuck with inoperable power windows (as I did for the pass 100K) unless I can find someone to replace it at a much reasonable cost. |
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I have done this twice with no special tools at all. It takes longer to get the door panel off then it did to drill out 3 rivets and replace the motor, I got mine from a junk yard for 25 bucks, the last one I replaced wore out the drive gears and not the motor, good thing I kept the old one, changed out the drive gears and its as good as new. If you can change your oil, you can change this motor. I used metal screws to replace the rivets, just in case I ever had to do it again. good luck, if you have any questions just post them. BTW mine is a 94, with 160K and runs like a top.
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Replying to: 2hawks (Apr 18, 2009 3:09 pm) |
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