Last post on Nov 11, 2013 at 11:15 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#99 of 194 Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 2WD Stalling, misfire, and backfire [freebee]
Oct 24, 2010 (2:14 pm)
I wasn't in a good area of town btw. I think they call the area.. Dallas if I'm not mistaken..HA I went back to the hotel and ate my stale cookie. Yum. I looked up online what could be the problem and there were many posts about the cam shaft sensor causing problems like the ones I was experiencing.
The next day my fuel gauge just stops working yet other electrical devices are working. Weird. My truck stalls. I start it back up and now everything is okay again. I first goto Azone for a cam shaft sensor (the plastic ring that sits under the rotor and is held in place by the distributor cap) and they don't have an end that matches what I got in my truck. Great, it's off to the dealership. After a 300% mark up on a 30 dollar part and about 20 minutes of work. I rush out of the parking lot only to find that this was still not the cause of my problems. I goto my next job and finish it. Now work wants me to drive up to McKinney. Great. (I only have clothes for one day. My balls are pretty rank by now. Just a little FYI)
I make it up there and now it's too late to work because the job is closing for the day. I run by the autozone up there and they said my alternator was putting out no output. What? I removed the positive battery cable and my truck is still running. (apparently, with the new OBD II, that no longer is a good indicator that your alternator is good/bad). He said I need to clean all my battery terminals, check the connection on my alternator (the B+). Which I did to no avail. I drove down to O'Reillys and told them to check the alternator which they did and said it was putting out 76 amps ( I bought the more amperage alternator when I changed it out the last time) His thoughts on the matter was that my transmission was not dropping down and that if it continued it might just very well be the problem. I still don't know why one parts store had different readings than the other, unless of course Azone's alt checker was bad. That's another thing too people. People in the know, may sometimes not be in the know, know what I mean?
The next day I drive to the new job and my truck doesn't want to start ever. It's just a whole day of suck for me. At the end of the day we leave, and my coworker is following me back to the hotel. The truck started missing and backfiring so bad that he said he could see the sparks shoot out of the tail pipes. It eventually got bad along the way he said sh*t was flying out the rear end and the tone of my exhaust got a little more manly. I make it to the turn lane for the hotel and it dies. I've got my coworker behind me and my boss behind him. I can't get it to start. It just keeps turning over and then... BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.. ba BOOOOOOOOOMM POOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW It was the like the 4th of July was happening in the cab of my truck. It was awesome. It made both of those guys damn near piss themselves. I wish I had it for Youtube.
I make it into the parking lot and we all get out and look under the truck. The muffler had been blown in half. Now I'm thinking the cat did get plugged up or broken somehow when the muffler was put on.
I leave the truck there, goto work, come back and pray that I can make it back to Houston. NOPE. Pulled off to the Meineke downtown and they said I had a bad CAT code, a bad MUFFLER code (??really, a bad muffler code?? right) and a air/fuel mixture ratio code. I asked if I could make it back and they said sure, but it would be loud.
So now I'm off and I've got nothing but freeway ahead. It's missing and backfiring and I know there's no way I'm getting back. So I pull over and cut the tail pipe before the cat to provide a temporary fix so I can make it back to Houston. This STILL is not the problem. It hasn't been the IAC solenoid, the coil, the alternator, the rotor (which I replaced too) the cam shaft sensor, the cat or the muffler. GEEEEZUS
I sputter into Ennis and the local mechanic garage there finds the problem. They started just pulling on wires while the engine was running and it killed the engine. They followed the wires back to the ECM (or sometimes PCM as it's referred to) and found that the ECM probably had a broken circuit board. I saw it happen. They started the truck and with a very slight tap of a wrench on top of the ECM, the truck immediately died.
Unfortunately, you can't just pull a used ECM from the junk yard. I thought you could and those guys said you could too, but they said it would be used and there would be no warranty. I took it to the Dodge dealership there and they've got my truck until Tuesday when the ECM arrives. Am I overpaying? Probably. However, if you buy one online, Dodge still has to flash it with your VIN and I guess I could have looked one up online there and had it shipped.. (crap). Also, if you get a used one from a junk yard, if it doesn't have the same specs as your truck, you run the risk of wasting your money on something that won't work. It's also illegal to sell a truck with a different ECM VIN programmed in (whatever). It's a one shot deal on that, there is no reprogramming it. I thought I was getting hosed, but in the end, they install it, they flash it, it's all their problem if it goes bad.
SOOOOO, to close. Tap on your ECM (the thing with the three big plugs screwed to the passenger fender by the air intake box) once you have your truck running and see what happens. If your problem is everyonce and awhile. You might try just unscrewing your ECM from the truck and moving it around and possibly shaking it gently. Move them harness wires a bit too as I see sometimes problems arise from bad splices down the wires from the plug harness on other posts
NOTE: Here's some other things I did wrong that may have contributed to this break down. When I installed my MSD ignition, I wanted to have a super good ground. I was younger then and grabbed the B+ from the alternator and tried to tie it to this ground plug thing I made. ZAAAP blew the 140 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. (about 8 years ago) Also, I tried those platinum plugs. On a work trip back from Alabama, I heard this crack sound and my truck never did have the greatest fuel mileage after that, even after I put the old copper plugs back in. That's also when I decided to stop using the MSD to see if that would help get the gas mileage back. (around 4 years ago). Which on rare occasions, it did get great gas mileage, but I think I've had a bad ECM for quite a long time. I also did just recently hose wash my engine, as I've done many times before. I can't see that causing a problem, as I stay clear for the most part from the ECM computer. Those things have to be at the least water resistant with rain getting in to the engine compartment. Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helpe
#100 of 194 Re: 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 2WD Stalling, misfire, and backfire [freebee]
Oct 24, 2010 (2:15 pm)
Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helped the squeaks for a bit. I don't think I came close to the computer at all. My truck does have 310K miles on it.
The guy at the car rental place said he had a buddy that wanted to sell his 80's model Chevy for around what I'm going to spend on this ECM. I told him, let me get this straight. I'm going to spend 800 for a used 1980 Chevy?? WOO WOO, oh wait a sec. I could also spend 800 for a used 1998 Dodge Dakota. I told him I would get back to him on that.
Hope something here helped you,
just an average shmuck
#101 of 194 35 - 50 Mph slow vibration?
Oct 26, 2010 (2:00 pm)
I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4 120500 miles.
In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at 35-50 mph, slight vibration. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in ride. After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
**Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.
To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
First felt vibration at 35-45 mph
Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
After fuel injector cleaner, no fix.
Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.
Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
or possible bad TCM (no codes)
not torque converter.
Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.
Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.
Trustworthy Tranny shop states no way it can be torque converter, says it must be tires. With truck off ground and wheels dangling, truck shook on lift, just like on road??
New Shop can't find any problem, then suggest rear diff service.
Finds broken clutch plate and rebuilds. $850
Problem unchanged and now shop says it is the tires.
Buy new tires, $650, balance two times and road force balance one time and problems still there.
After all of the above (over $2000) and hours and hours (priceless) of driving and thinking it feels like an out of round tire. A 35-50mph feels like a slight wobble or hop (tires are good and true and no bent rims) in the rear of the truck.
Currently I'm out over $2000 and slightly better than started but not completely gone.
No OBD codes.
Could this be a driveshaft bent? Feels to slow and wobbly, not high speed vibration.
Thanks for your help,
#102 of 194 Re: power control modual on 95 dakota v-6 [billscomp]
Oct 28, 2010 (10:53 am)
Was it a used PCM? If so you may have to have it flashed for your vehicle which only can be done by the dealer even though you # match doesnt mean that the computers are flashed the same way!
Oct 28, 2010 (11:09 am)
I have a 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 I have recently replaced the motor with a 2000 with 52k on it. Everything was fine with the install and it seemed to be running great until the temperature dropped a couple degrees. What it would do was it would start but while driving it would stall out for no reason. I have picked my brain on this for over a year now and checked everything in the vehicle from the fuel pump, crank sensor to the coil itself. The funny thing is that no check engine light ever showed up. So I though it could be one of the sensors on the throttle body. I had all the old sensors off the orig. motor so I changed them out only the problem got worse. the truck would start then die emediatly after starting especially when cold out. then sometimes it would start and run fine with no problems. I just couldn't seem to nip this problem in the butt. So I figured the problem should be in one of the sensors i replaced so I started with the IAC valve it had black sut all over it so I started to clean it with starting fluid well I had to of them and am a curious person so I figured i would take one of them apart to see how it worked and low and behold I found that both of the sensors had a piece on them that would unscrew from it both of them it looked like they didnt do anything but I was wrong. what they do is screw in and out to allow different airflow to the TB. I cleaned one of them up and the other i left the same as it was just in case the one I took apart after cleaning I could screw the pice that goes inside the TB in and out and the other was still stuck so after finding this out I put the one I cleaned back in the truck and low and behold it fires up with no problems and runs like a dream and never stalls anymore so if your having problems with stalling and not wanting to start I would start at the IAC first to see if it fixes your problems.
#104 of 194 98 Dakota Staring and then Stalling
Nov 15, 2010 (4:31 pm)
I recently bought a 98 4x4 dakota slt with 181k (=X) on it...it ran fine until i brought it home. now when i start it, it starts up then starts to die down then it ether revs up again and is fine or stalls. Any help?
#105 of 194 Re: 98 Dakota Staring and then Stalling [siscolad]
Jan 17, 2011 (7:24 pm)
For many stalling at idle problems from a dead battery, try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and then reconnect it. Sometimes, the computer gets a low voltage from a nearly dead battery or a weak one used to try to start the engine. With electronics, an improper voltage will give unpredictable results - the radio also. Disconnecting will force the computer reset to basic program that has a correct idle and then it will reprogram while you are driving.
Also the Idle Air Control (IAC) has caused me a couple of problems and cleaning it with Carburetor cleaner helped for a while. I finally sprang for a new one. I would first check the IAC for erratic idle problems.
For stalling while driving, my 92 dodge, 5.2 L 150k hard miles, had the problem caused by an internal computer connection at the cable/computer connector. It would stall at idle or while turning a corner at 25MPH or doing 70 MPH straight on the highway. I replaced all the usual suspects- IAC TPS, CSS, Coil before I finally found a used computer on EBay. That fixed that problem.
I realized it was the computer because when I tried to restart the engine and turned on the ignition, the check engine light would not come on as it normally does and then go out. I would go to the engine bay and wiggle different wires and noticed that when I moved the computer connection, the check engine light would sometimes come on and only then the engine would start. I checked all the connectors and found it had to be in the computer connection under the epoxy(?) filler where I could not get to fix it.
Beyond these bits of info, good luck. (I couldn't read the whole thread, especially that guy that wrote the book.)
I realize it is an old thread, but I hope this info may help someone.
#106 of 194 94 DAKOTA STALLS NO SPARK
Feb 14, 2011 (11:30 am)
I have a 94 Dakota 3.9 automatic 4x4 that dies at will.There is no spark at the plugs,no codes shown fuel pump working. I replaced cam sensor,crank sensor,cap and rotor,plug wires.Checked the splices under relay box and chassis grounds. Truck will run in driveway all day but when you drive it, it stalls.If I disconnect the battery to reset it will start but stall again sometimes within 5 feet sometimes within 2 miles.Last time it stalled I disconnected the cam sensor and plugged it back in and it started.Checked harness and found a heavy guage dark blue wire was running between the intake manifold and valve cover was chaffed and grounding on the cover. Repaired wire still loses spark.I,m at a loss on what to look for.Any suggestoins would be greatly appreciated!
#107 of 194 Re: 94 DAKOTA STALLS NO SPARK [motopartsguy]
Feb 14, 2011 (6:04 pm)
I had the same problem with my 1990 3.9 v6. Turned out to be the distributor itself or the moduel within. Auto Zone sells them for around $75. Been working ever since.
#108 of 194 1987 Dodge Dakota
Feb 28, 2011 (3:38 pm)
I love my truck, however, after a few weeks of owning it, I left it parked for two days without starting, it all of a sudden wouldn't start, as if it were out of gas, then it would drive as if nothing and die out, wait a day and it was fine. I took it in twice to the mechanic, first time he replaced a sensor, worked for about an hour then it started again with the same issue of starting when ever it felt like and the rest of the time not staying on. Next the fuel pump was replaced, again it worked for two weeks then I didn't turn it on for two days and it is back at it again. Not sure what to do, neither can my mechanic. If others have had this problem and resolved it, that information would be helpful..thank you