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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

68 messages,  Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 4:17 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#39 of 68
Back firing and rough running intermittent by bigpainter
Nov 24, 2008 (6:41 pm)
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Ths problem is intermittent in that it runs OK and then intermittently will back fire and acts like its out of time or gas. Sometimes runs for days and then will act up right away. this PU have been tuned and I changed where I buy gas. Got a few engine checks and scan said bad oygen sensor. Changed sensor and no good. After much testing and checking I decided it must be the PCM module so I ordered one. These have to be programmed to your vehicle using the VIN number and the milage otherwise they won't work and of course the right one for the vehicle. I just hope I am right. I got one for half the price. I am told the engine computer {PCM} will cause many strange problems. 1996 Dodge Dakota Sport, 2.5, 2 wheel drive manual.
#40 of 68
Re: Back firing and rough running intermittent [bigpainter] by dustyk
Nov 25, 2008 (6:44 pm)
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Replying to: bigpainter (Nov 24, 2008 6:41 pm)

Well, let us know if a different PCM solves your problem.
 
I have to be honest with you, PCM problems on Dakotas are very, very rare. If fact, I think I'd say that for most make trucks. The manufacturers go to great lengths in designing a robust and reliable computer. But, failures do sometimes occur.
 
I would be more suspicious of a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor, especially on the age of the vehicle and the vintage. I'm surprised no one has already suggested this to you. A badly worn distributor can cause the same symptoms as well.
 
Best of luck,
Dusty
#41 of 68
Re: Back firing and rough running intermittent [dustyk] by bigpainter
Nov 26, 2008 (1:51 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Nov 25, 2008 6:44 pm)

I am very sorry to say that I have wasted $250 for a PCM that did not fix the problem. Sometimes I think that I would like to buy a PU from the time before emisions controls came along. In my old days I could fix anything on my vehicles.
#42 of 68
Re: 93 dakota stalling at 1200 rpm [dakota1060] by Dakota95
Feb 18, 2009 (11:14 am)
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Replying to: dakota1060 (Oct 17, 2008 7:23 pm)

93 dakota stalling at 1200 rpm. I have a 95 dakota that stalls at about 1200 rpm as well. Same 3.9 engine and about 85K miles. I haven't tried gasing is hard to get past 1200 rpm. My situation is sporadic and only happening twice several months apart. However, I have noticed if I let the truck sit a couple minutes it fires right back up and runs fine. I don't know if our cases are exactly the same since mine is sporadic and yours maybe consistently an issue. Did you ever find an answer to this issue? I have not had any luck so far.
#43 of 68
96 dakota 3.9 running rough,back fires and won't stay running by derek010
Feb 21, 2009 (6:37 pm)
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I have changed a lot of things and I'm going nuts with this thing. I just did a new distributor and cap and rotor and plugs, hasn't helped. It threw a code of random misfire on 5 of the 6 cylinders and a 02 code. I just replaced the front, the back is about 6 months-4000 miles old. I noticed since this started acting up, I seem to get a little zap here and there. I checked all my grounds and seem to be in order. How much play should the distributor shaft have? When I have the cap off and try to turn the rotor button by hand it has a little back and fourth play.Could that be the problem? If it would make it, I'd drive it off a cliff right now,lol. It back firing through the intake.
#44 of 68
Re: 96 dakota 3.9 running rough,back fires and won't stay running [derek010] by dustyk
Feb 22, 2009 (7:31 pm)
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Replying to: derek010 (Feb 21, 2009 6:37 pm)

Side play on the distributor should be .003 to .007 inch.
 
Non factory ignition parts will cause this problem, as well as a serious vacuum leak.
 
Regards,
Dusty
#45 of 68
Re: 2002 3.9l Dodge Dakota with automatic transmission that stalls in reverse. [mohawk120] by mrsincere7
Mar 02, 2009 (3:31 pm)
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Replying to: mohawk120 (Sep 12, 2008 4:19 am)

Hello Mohawk. I too am experiencing stalling when I am in reverse, and sometimes in drive. I notice it more when I have the steering wheel turned all the way and I'm in reverse. It's like there is a strain on the engine and then it stalls. especially in reverse. Did you experience this too? Is the crankshaft sensor, the same thing as the crankshaft position sensor??? If so, it looks like it can be replaced very easily. Do you or anyone have any ideas???
#46 of 68
Re: 2002 3.9l Dodge Dakota with automatic transmission that stalls in reverse. [mrsincere7] by derek010
Mar 02, 2009 (3:55 pm)
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Replying to: mrsincere7 (Mar 02, 2009 3:31 pm)

They are one in the same. I already replaced mine and that didn't help. Mine was doing that and I took out my Idle Air Control Valve and sprayed it out with card cleaner and that fixed it. If yours starts stalling when you have it in park thats definatly it.
#47 of 68
Re: 2002 3.9l Dodge Dakota with automatic transmission that stalls in reverse. [derek010] by mrsincere7
Mar 02, 2009 (5:14 pm)
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Replying to: derek010 (Mar 02, 2009 3:55 pm)

Thanks for the reply. Air control valve??? Okay I'll look at that. You meant "Carb" cleaner, right? Not "Card"???
#48 of 68
Re: 2002 3.9l Dodge Dakota with automatic transmission that stalls in reverse. [mrsincere7] by dustyk
Mar 04, 2009 (6:43 pm)
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Replying to: mrsincere7 (Mar 02, 2009 5:14 pm)

I believe you are going to be looking for the Idle Air Control Motor (IAC). This is a computer controlled motor that moves a pintle or plunger to regulate the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plate. As the computer senses increased engine load or a decreased idle speed, the computer sends a signal to the motor to move the plunger and permit more air to bypass the throttle, thereby raising the engine idle speed.
 
The plungers are made of a highly fuel resistant silicon rubber material, and the plunger and the passage can and will get gummed up causing restricted movement of the plunger. This area can be cleaned with any common carburetor-type cleaner. On 3.9 motors, the IAC is mounted at the rear of the Throttlebody. It has a four wire connector attached to it and is secured by two torx screws and is easily removed.
 
Use care reinstalling the plunger. When they're dry they can be damaged trying to reinsert the plunger back into the bore. I find that a quick spray of carb cleaner on the plunger provides enough lubricity for reinsertion.
 
Regards,
Dusty

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