Last post on Nov 11, 2013 at 11:15 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Dakota, Truck
#131 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [joe71885]
Aug 26, 2011 (5:47 pm)
Im new to edmunds, i have a 2002 dakota slt quad cab 4.7 and my issue is, when starting in the morning or 20 to 30 min after shutting of the engine it takes 4 second to start and i get a smell of gas. Also it is runnig rought on idle but has not turned of on me yet, it had the check engine light on for cylinder # 6 so i changed injecter and coil but still runnig rought but the check engine light has not come back....i just got this truck 3 days ago so im new to dodge. HELP
#132 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [mismysilverado]
Aug 27, 2011 (3:25 pm)
The smell of gas would mean that the injectors are working, but the ignition is not coming on instanteously for some reason.
This would be my guess with no codes present. Changing the coil is the last
resort..I would change out the camshaft sensor first as these can be tricky to diagnose (hall effect semi conductor) and in some cases they don't always produce a fail code.
For an engine to run..you need 3 things, compression, fuel charge in the cylinders and a spark at the correct time..it's gotta run.
Since the coil primary is controlled by the PCM, it needs i/p from the camshaft (and crankshaft sensor) to provide the correct timing for the spark. The PCM
will pulse the coil primary to produce a spark for the correct plug based
on the position of the rotor inside the distributor cap. It then goes off to
the spark plug for the cylinder that is at top dead center after it's compression
The rest of the ignition system is basically standard, cap, rotor, sparkplug wires and park plugs, so these shouldn't be giving the intermittent symptom
you are describing.
#133 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [carverman]
Aug 28, 2011 (5:51 am)
Thank you so much for the info, where is the the crankshaft sensor located on 2002 dakota.
#134 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [mismysilverado]
Aug 28, 2011 (2:01 pm)
According to my Haynes manual the crankshaft sensor (V6/V8 is located
behind the RIGHT cylinder head. It is a hall effect solid state sensor as well
and detects notches in the flywheel/driveplate. The PCM receives those
pulses and processes it to control each cylinder's injector. O/P from the
sensor will fluctuate between 0volts and 5 volts DC.
To replace it, you have to remove the right front tire and inner splash shield,
disconnect the wiring harness connector and the bolts that hold it in.
Not as easy as replacing the hall effect camshaft sensor inside the distributor, which sits on a plastic plate held on with 2 screws.
On the dakotas, the ASD relay (auto shutdown) will be operated by
the PCM if it detects any kind of serious fault...and sometimes there
is no Pxxx code given, because the sensor is flakey but not completely
P0300 is no camshaft sensor signal..but this will be a complete failure
and the check engine light will come on.
P1391 loss of either camshaft or crankshaft sensor signal.
Note: these are hall effect semiconductor types of sensors and they can
have intermittent failures as their o/p depends on sensing a changing magnetic field on the flywheel or inside the distributor.
(see wikipedia for more information on these).
#135 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [carverman]
Aug 28, 2011 (3:43 pm)
Ok, replaced the crankshaft sensor and still takes about 4 to 5 seconds for the motor turn over also getting strong smell of crude fuel comming out the muffler. so far ive replaced the # 6 injecter,coil and I replaced all 8 plugs acdelco what to do what do. the truck idles rough but drives normal what else can it be, you like obeone canoby your my only hope , before I take it to the dealer and get shafted. Thanks again for all the help your giving me god bless.
#136 of 194 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota V6, Stalling at Idle [mismysilverado]
Aug 29, 2011 (1:25 pm)
#137 of 194 Cranking and taking too long to start
Aug 29, 2011 (1:32 pm)
The injectors are running to rich or you don't have a spark at the beginning.
Try this, take the wire out of the coil that goes to the distributor and find a sparkplug wire
to fit into it. Connect the sparkplug boot to a spare spark plug and ground the plug against
the engine somewhere. Have someone crank the engine while you observe for a spark
right away..within the 1st second. If you do..then the it's the injector system/PCM.
There are two sensors that control fuel mixture:
IAT (on the intake manifold) determines the temp of the incoming air and sends a signal
to the PCM to adjust fuel mixture accordingly.
MAP (manifold pressure or mass air flow) this one will send a signal to the PCM to
adjust the mixture as well.
But don't replace them..you should be able to test them for proper voltage...0 to 5volts.
#138 of 194 Re: Cranking and taking too long to start [carverman]
Aug 29, 2011 (2:15 pm)
My truck is a 2002 and it has coil packs no distributor, when the truck is cold or bin sitting for 30 min it will take 4 to 5 seconds for it to start holding the key down then i can turn it of and it starts wright away and then runs rough on idle only. Could it be the check valve in the fuel pump i guess when i shut the motor down all the gas goes back to the tank, what do you think?......thank you for your help.
#139 of 194 Re: Cranking and taking too long to start [mismysilverado]
Aug 30, 2011 (5:14 am)
Ok, you have the GenII engine with a coil for each plug. As far as the fuel
pump, IF it is the same as the older style Magnum 5.2 V8, you should have
a pressure regulator down in the fuel pump module. It maintains the
pressure on the fuel rail. So unless it is faulty, the fuel rail should have
some pressure on it on all times, when the ignition key is ON,
typically 45 psi.
I have an Actron fuel pressure guage (0-100psi) that I use to check mine on occasion.
These are cheap to buy $15-$20 and come with an instruction folder for
testing the pressure on the fuel rail test port..the one that has a black
plastic cap screwed on it.
Unscrew the protective cap and screw on the hose with the schrader valve fitting onto the rail. If the engine has been sitting for a long time, the pressure will bleed off, but as soon as the ignition key is ON (don't start),
the fuel pressure should be instanteous..within a half second.
As soon as you get a reading on the guage, leave it for an hour or so and
check the pressure again WITHOUT TURNING ON THE KEY OR STARTING,
it shouldn't drop down that much, if any..that is what they call a leak down
test and it will give you a relative idea of the pressure regulator valve.
The fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump relay in the PDC.
Note: be careful when attaching/detaching the fuel pressure hose to the fuel rail test port, as some fuel may spray out around the fitting until it is tight. If the fuel rail is still under some pressure, until the schrader valve
closes tightly on the fuel test port, fuel can spray out on a hot engine..so
don't do this with a hot engine. They suggest wrapping a rag around
the test port fitting to catch any fuel spraying out.
My fuel pressure regulator also has a small clear plastic fuel dump hose to dump any fuel in the hose and release the pressure on the guage AFTER the ignition has been turned off, (before the pressure guage fitting is unscrewed from the test port.)
(They recommend putting the clear plastic fuel dump hose in a container to contain the gas, will be just around 10ml.
This should at least give you an idea if your problem is fuel pump module related, as replacing the fuel pump module inside the tank is a BIG job
and an EXPENSIVE one.
The tank has to be practically empty and you need to drop the tank onto a jackstand support to get at the pump.
Not a DIY job, in my opinion..so do the testing first..as it is a cheaper
way of troubleshooting.
#140 of 194 Re: Cranking and taking too long to start [mismysilverado]
Aug 30, 2011 (8:40 am)
Just checked the fuel pressure at the test port on my 98 Dakota.
Initially it 0 PSI (sitting overnight) and was 45psi with the ignition key turned on after 1/2 second or so. Turned off the ignition key and
left the guage on for over an hour.
Fuel rail pressure dropped down only to 35 psi, so the pressure regulator on mine works just fine.