Last post on Nov 11, 2013 at 11:15 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Dakota, Truck
#115 of 194 Re: Shuts off while driving [sammyb078]
Jul 09, 2011 (2:29 am)
First of all, you need to specify year, model and engine size if you want factual
information. I have a Haynes service manual for my '98 Dodge Dakota 5.2L
(318) V8. The wiring diagram indicates various sensors on this type of engine
that provide information to Power Control Module (PCM) or engine management
computer. In my model there is something called an ASD (auto shutdown relay)
which is controlled by the PCM. For the PCM to operate this relay (which kills
the fuel pump/injectors via the Fuel pump relay) AND the power side of the
ignition coil, a sensor has to be either out of range or faulty.
It's hard to make any accurate diagnosis of your problem with virtually no
info to go on, but one place to start is the camshaft sensor. This is a Hall effect
(solid state) sensor that detects the camshaft "lobes" to determine the firing
pulse and spark for each cylinder. These have been known to go "wacko"
where they work sometimes and not at other times.
I had a 1999 Dodge Ram V8 that would run for 15 minutes,
then die and wouldn't restart for another half hour or so,
and then run again for 10-15 minutes and die again and this was
a repeatable problem. Turned out to be a defective camshaft sensor.
This is located in the distributor (under the rotor) and can be easily removed
and replaced with a screwdriver.
#116 of 194 Re: Dodge Dakota (05) was towed in [ladybug78]
Jul 10, 2011 (8:40 am)
I had a friend with a 1999 Ram 318 V8 that would start up and then die after
about 10 to 15 minutes of running and then wouldn't start again until left
for an hour or longer. No engine codes. Checked everything..fuel rail pressure
all the obvious things...he had it towed into the shop..they changed the crankshaft sensor first..didn't fix the symptom, so then they changed the cam
sensor (the one inside the distributor that replaces the old fashioned points) and
that fixed the problem.
These are solid state "Hall effect" sensors that detect a magnetic cam lobe
and generator a timing pulse to the PCM. Once in a while they go defective
in a strange way, but not completely. I carry a spare one around in my
'98 Dakota, just in case mine starts acting up like that.
So far, I've only had the stalling problem in very cold weather and only when
going from reverse to drive. Don't know what that one is about yet..
whether it's transmission temp related, engine temp related or some other
critical sensor that shuts it down.
#117 of 194 Re: Stalls when put in reverse [mohawk120]
Jul 10, 2011 (8:48 am)
I have the same problem with my 98 Dakota 318 v8.
I have heard that these "hall effect" solid state sensors they use in the distributor
for providing timing pulses to the PCM are known for "whacko" symptoms.
My 98 Dakota V8 stalls in reverse also in very cold weather, but not after
the engine warms up and it only stalls once at that..as soon as I put the
gear selector from R to D, it cuts out. Starts ok after that and I can drive
off..been like that for several years now..I was thinking it was a sensor, but
not sure which one, since the 46RE auto transmission used on my truck has
a temperature sensor, but it is a thermistor, which is a simple sensor compared
to these hall effect camshaft sensors.
I have a spare, so I think I will replace it and see if that solves the problem.
#118 of 194 Re: 35 - 50 Mph slow vibration? [cactus93]
Jul 10, 2011 (8:59 am)
Wow! another long and expensive story. Vibrations at speed can be from
a number of sources..tires not being properly balanced or sidewalls on the
tires deforming at certain speeds causing a vibration at only a certain speed
and not at other speeds. I had a set of tires once that did that.
The other posibility would be u-joints on the driveshaft.
#119 of 194 99 Dakota stalls when slowing down or stopping
Jul 14, 2011 (3:24 pm)
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota 5.2L. standard. Recently it has been stalling when I have slowed at stop lights or stop signs or when I have going slow around a corner. I have replaced the battery and cleaned the IAC. I was reading on either this forum or another one and read that it could be the Vehicle Speed Sensor. It also runs really really rich. Also both of the mechanics that I got to scan my truck got a no data reading. If anybody could give me any other ideas of what it could be that would be great.
I know this has probably been brought up on these forums before but I can't find it anymore so I apologize for repeating the thread. Maybe somebody could give me the link to another thread that may be able to help me.
#120 of 194 Re: 99 Dakota stalls when slowing down or stopping [cmeister]
Jul 14, 2011 (4:02 pm)
Really sounds like the IAC. I cleaned mine for a while and had to go for a new one. See Post #105 for my problems. Could also be the throttle position sensor (TPS), but I'd go for a new IAC if it cleared up after cleaning and then came back. The IAC gets sluggish and doesn't operate as fast as it should and the engine stalls. If cleaning the IAC didn't help at all, I would try a TPS next.
Maybe the EGR .
I also replaced the EGR and the engine ran a lot better at high end. I didn't notice the problem because the computer would adjust for it. I noticed that at 80 MPH towing my boat up hill and floored, it would backfire because it was too lean. A new EGR fixed that.
Good luck with it.
#121 of 194 Re: 99 Dakota stalls when slowing down or stopping [cmeister]
Jul 19, 2011 (9:06 am)
check the fuel pressure and the TPS. Either one will cause these symptoms.
Jul 21, 2011 (8:44 am)
I have a 2002 Dakota 3.9 engine. Run fine except when I pull my travel trailer. After a few miles, about 10, the engine stalls and won't idle. If I keep the reves up to 1500-1800 it runs ok, but not lower. If I let it sit for 15-20 minutes it will idle OK. When pulling trailer the temp gage never goes over 1/2, where it usually runs. I have changed plugs and wires and the mechanics can't find any problem, and there are no error codes. I didn't see any issues like this on the forum, some simular.
#123 of 194 Re: Mender [mender2]
Jul 21, 2011 (2:28 pm)
I would check the IAC and then the EGR valve. I assume you have the throttle open more when pulling the trailer because of the weight. That may cause the problem. An EGR that doesn't close makes it run lean, and hotter, and the computer makes up for it and more exhaust gas is recirculated and dirties things up when you get off the gas. If I remember correctly, both are about $50 and easy to install.
I had to replace both on my 5.2.