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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

68 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 4:17 PM
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Replying to: moparlover3 (Apr 25, 2009 6:36 pm) Crankshaft Position Sensors were of irratic quality in your vintage Mopar motor. Fortunately, after the initial replacements you don't hear of too many failing a second time. Still see a number of old Daks on the road. There are two of your vintage in my neighborhood, both have over 180,000 miles on them. A little rusty in spots, but looking a heck of a lot better than any eight-year-old S10!! Best regards, Dusty |
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The following list of symptoms associated with defective Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) on Dodge trucks are a compilation of actual field experiences, both observed and reported: off-idle hesitation hesitation at speed rough engine idle intermittent rough engine idle rough idle then stalls engine RPM fluctuates at idle engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls engine stalls when placed into any gear engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used engine stalls when throttle opened engine surges at speed engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration irratic shifts irratic torque converter unlocking irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE) irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE) irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE) 3-4 driveline clunk delayed 1-2 shift delayed 3-4 upshift 3-4 upshifts occurs abruptly after 2-3 shift no 3-4 upshift no 4-3 downshift no kickdown at speed no or irratic torque converter lock up no or irratic overdrive shift Regards, Dusty |
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| I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport with the V6 magnum, 3.9L and 4X4. The dealer replaced the engine just before I bought it. Both the vehicle and engine have about 89000 miles. Until recently I haven't had any problems with it. The issues that I'm starting to have are squealing belts and stalling. The belts, I replaced the tension pulley and the belt, but it still squeals. The stalling is the problem that worries me most. It only seems to happen, though, on slow left turns, whether the AC is running or not. It seems to idle right aroud 600-700 RPM. And after it stall, it's a pain to get restarted. Could these problems be linked? | |
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| Hi all, I have a 1990 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 Automatic. I have an issue where after starting the truck and letting it run for about 15 minutes it stalls and will not start for about another 30-45 minutes. Now I've replaced everything that I thought it might be and still havent solved the problem. I've replaced the ECM, distributor cap and rotor, auto shutdown relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, coolant temp sensor, and I dont know where to go from here. Please anyone or maybe a mechanic, if you have any info on this I would greatly appreciate it because I'm seconds away from driving it into a lake! Thanks, Mike | |
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So, because I am dumb, I took my V8/auto tranny Dakota in to a dealer for it's first tune up and tranny service. The truck was running fine in all respects. I got back a mess. The tranny failed twice after getting the truck back, first the dealer blamed a bad new MOPAR tranny filter, the 2nd failure was a different bad tranny part (sorry can't find the paperwork). All this had the distinct feel of total BS coming from the dealer - as in I think the mechanic screwed up the tranny service royally, and they just wouldn't admit it. Anyway - after the 2nd tranny failure, I got the truck back and it immediately began stalling shortly after morning start up - well within the first mile or so of driving, but only after the truck had been sitting a long while - like overnight. Here are the exact symptoms. Starts normally in the morning (I do not let the engine warm up - start and go, but I tried letting the engine come to temp before go doesn't have an impact on this problem). Drive to the first stop (uphill less than 1/4 mile away) as the truck comes to a full stop, the RPM's drop out and the truck stalls. Truck restarts immediately and does not stall again for the rest of the day. Cold engine stalling is intermittent (roughly 50% of the time or less) in temps greater than 65 degrees, and almost always as temps dip below, with coldest winter temps causing multiple stalls, as opposed to just once in the morning, but again, will not continue to stall once warmed up). So the colder it gets, the more consistent and more frequent the cold engine stalling is until the engine warms up and then the engine will not stall for the rest of the day. I can prevent the stalling if I force the rpms to stay up by braking and tapping the gas simultaneously. If I take a different route in the morning so I don't hit stop/go traffic while the engine is cold, I don't have a stalling problem (but it's a much longer route, and that's no solution) Over the months, the dealer has had the truck back 5 times without success. They reset the computer on the first try, then replaced one of them (can't find the paperwork). Replaced the Oxygen sensor. Beat the engine with a hammer, had a Shaman do a pagan blessing, and then shrugged. I suggested the problem is tranny related because that's where all the troubles started, but the dealer says the tranny is fine. Lawyers are expensive, and I just want my truck fixed. Suggestions would be enormously appreciated.
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Replying to: chip16 (Apr 21, 2008 12:34 pm) |
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Replying to: paco161 (Jul 23, 2008 1:11 pm) |
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Replying to: dodgewoes (Aug 18, 2009 11:28 am) |
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'99 Dakota w/5.2 engine and auto trans. 110k miles. Problem started after hard acceleration and braking to stop. The torque converter or transmission did not disengage when I stopped and the engine died. Will run with jerky shifts after I shift into gear under power but still locks up and kills engine after highway run. No Codes present. Replaced TPS and IAC motor. Rear Band has a lot of play in the adjustment. No pieces in oil pan, normal Iron sludge stuck to magnet. Researched threads for solutions: 1.Clogged filter/lines 2. Rear band misadjusted 3. Broken Clutch spring (no evidence in pan or filter) 4. bad front clutch (how do I check) 5. stuck servo (how do I check?) 6. valve body problem 7. broken Planetary Gearset (no evidence in Pan) 8. locked torque convertor clutch Planning on making band adjustments, replacing filter and running to check. Or should I just go ahead and disassemble the thing? Could this be a band adjustment issue or do I have a failed (locked)torque convertor? Since there's no codes I'm thinking the electronics are o.k. I heard valve body check balls shrink and fail? Help |
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| Recently I had to replace a throw out bearing in my dodge dakota 4x4 3.9. I forgot to remove the crank position sensor and broke it off while removing or installing bell housing, found out when truck would not start. Replaced it and started fine, hesitated a second and ran fine till the next day, had too pull over and nurse the gas do too very rough idle and power lose, got it going and drove 30 miles and it hesitated a split second. Next day drove 2 miles started running rough jerking, pulled over rough idle when started. left it over night and it started right up and drove 2 miles did the same thing. Replaced distributor cap and rotor, nothing. Pulled IAC, very dirty, started truck idled great, shut it off for 10 minutes, tried to start it again, woul not stay running. Replaced IAC, same roughness. Changed crank position sensor know starts but runs rough like all cylindes not firing. Help I'm losing it...LOL | |
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