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Mitsubishi Lancer Prices Paid and Buying Experience

65 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 2:11 PM
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So I ended up going with my first dealer, Longwood Mitsubishi in Florida. I was a bit disappointed that they had all weekend to go find the car I want (gray with sun & sound, ES auto) and didn't get back to me til afternoon on day it was supposed to be here. So I ended up with the red one. I can't really complain too much, still hawtness. Rally Red, ES Auto w/ Sun & Sound package. Total came to $19.5k Total before fees was $17,724
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My priorities: Efficient, Affordable, Reliable vehicle. Did not need Sun&Sound, Navi or GTS extras. Even color did not matter to me; I think the car looks sharp in any of the colors. The warranty and the restyled look were the major attractions for me. I had a '96 Galant, which I loved. Never had a problem with it in 11 years, until I wrecked it last Thursday I would have driven that baby for another 11 years (it only had 87K on it) :::sniffle::: Anyway, I played hardball with the Dealer until they named a price: 16,514. I agreed to that. Then, when we sat down to draw up the details, I pulled my ace-in-the-hole: Customer Loyalty Rebate for another $500 off. Final price 16,014. + Tax 1,321 + Reg/Title 150 I think I did pretty well, considering the sticker price was 18,514 (included $1000 for rust protection and fabric protection and VIN etching) Salesgirl did not look very happy when I played the rebate card. But - hey, it's my money and I will scrap and claw to save a few bucks. My advice to car shoppers: Bring your own financing and negotiate the price of the vehicle only. The monthly payment is your own business and should not be a part of the negotiation. |
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Here in western NY state...Rochester, Buffalo region...no indications of significant discounting. Those claiming to get $700 or $1200. UNDER invoice have had smoke blown at them. Why? Because they had a TRADE-IN involved! A shell game can be played when your trade gets involved in the negotiation. The $500. owners or college rebate is a stand-alone issue and is straightforward to me. Anyone aware of any dealer in western/central NY with serious discounting without a trade in, please contact me! The same also for any dealers in South Florida, Palm Beach County and Broward county too! |
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Replying to: ike3 (May 17, 2007 7:46 am) I DID buy the car for $700 under Invoice in ROCHESTER with NO trade-in involved (as I stated in my OP, my old car was wrecked). I think my advantages were: 1. Inexperienced salesperson 2. Worked the rebate angle only AFTER getting dealer to name a price I could work from. 3. Brought my own finance deal (paid cash in the eyes of the dealer) The shell game is letting the dealer negotiate from the monthly payment angle. 4. Did not have my heart set on a specific color or feature set (I was happy to work a deal on an in-stock model) Now, it should not be hard to figure out which dealer I went to, because only 1 of the 2 has any '08 Lancers in-stock. Look for the young, inexperienced salesgirl.
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Replying to: ike3 (May 17, 2007 7:46 am) I negotiated each SEPERATELY and refused to let them be linked. They pulled out a four-squre sheet and asked for numbers and I gave them ridiculous numbers so that we could get down to the real negotiating. I got an initial below invoice price on the car in writing over the internet before ever stepping a foot on the lot, then negotiated it down further (500 car show discount plus more on top - about $1200 under invoice as equipped). Then we dickered the trade and I almost walked twice until they got up to a place I was comfortable on the trade based on Edmunds and KBB values for retail/trade/wholesale/private-sale. Just refuse to discuss it or better still, if you aren't very good at this, just don't mention it and refuse to discuss it at all. Negotiate your price on the new car first then go at them seperately with the trade. If you can walk in with financing do so, but often dealers can get you better rates than your own bank can if there are any specials (at least a couple of tenths if not quite a bit more). NEVER discuss what you can afford or want to pay... NEVER. Leave the payment until the end after you get a price on the car and the trade (again, seperately). Do your research too before going in... know the product, know what it is selling for nationally and regionally, what MSRP and Invoice are, what rebates are available, the dealers rep online and with the BBB, and what the dealer likely has in hold back or seperation between invoice and what he paid (usually found with a pay service or at club websites). The dealer is NOT going to give you the car and he want's to make money... so remember these things: 1) Rebates are paid back to him and are NOT out of pocket. Bring those in LAST. 2) Dealers need to make money. The higher the volume the dealership the less he will be concerned with making on your deal... but he want's to make money so you can't walk in and say I want car x at y dollars below invoice if that y number equals zero or nearly no profit. 3). No dicker dealerships will dicker. If they don't, leave. 4) Visit more than one dealership if possible (harder to do with smaller guys like Mitsu). Yes, play them off. You will only get so low, but a great deal is to be had this way, even if it means more time invested in the negotiation phase. 5) Walk out if you can't get there or you aren't comfortable; never let them keep your driver's license, don't give them a SSN until you are doing a credit check (though knowing your FICO is a major plus) or application, don't ever...EVER give them a credit card unless you have a deal in writting and it's for money down (And contrary to some moronic folks, do any money down with a credit card if at all possible in case there is a problem or the deal falls through since you most likely have fraud protection and additional services available that a check or debit card will not afford you). 6) Keep your car and trade negotiations seperate and don't bring in or allow to be brought in trade into the negotiations until you have a price on the car settled. If the dealer refuses, walk away. And be realistic about what your trade is worth... you aren't going to get retail, not even close... but you should at least get auction rate if not a bit more... hopefully a lot more; if you are trading look for dealers who sell lots of used cars as well, they are likely to give you more than the smaller guys who just ship off most to the auction block. And if you owe a lot and can't get what you owe consider private sale or waiting it out; otherwise you will be rolling money into the deal on the negative side (and since a car drops in value soon as you sign, it only gets worse and you are into a negative situation far further than if you just bought the car straight up)... 7) Don't allow yourself to get sucked into their game... know your limits, don't get overly excited, never name a payment you are looking for. And don't fall into a salesman's use of a four square or 4-T sheet. |
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I live in IL Chicagoland area. Just purchased an 08 Lancer GTS, fully loaded in electric blue for 22,243. Of course the dealership tried to sell it to me for sticker price, which I said there's no way in hell I'm paying. I don't believe I got a good deal, I got a fair deal. Included in the 22,243 was door guards, wheel locks, and scuff plates. The financing was 4.9% at 60 months, which I believe there is a special for until 5/31/07. I also had a trade in valued just over 5,100. After the trade in, I also was eligible for the 2 incentives bringing it down another 1,000. I just want everyone on here to know that Electric Blue is the most requested color out there. The salesperson flat out LIED TO ME. First he said they had 1 Electric Blue GTS at another location. After about 30 minutes of talking to his manager, he comes back and says Mitsubishi is having a problem with the blue paint chipping off and there won't be anymore blue Lancers until July. To top this off, he says that any other dealer would tell me this same exact thing. Next, he offers me a black or red GTS, which I said let me think about it. I pretended like I was on the phone with another dealership and just before I was going to tell him I would wait until July, he magically says they have one. Max Madsen Mitsubishi has poor salesmen. This guy spent more time in the manager's office than he did talking to me. It was annoying how they purposely extended the negotiation for no reason. On top of this, they had other salespersons acting as spies to try to hear pieces of conversation I was having with the person I brought with me. Be careful if you negotiate with them. This will probably be my second and LAST Mitsubishi I buy from them. |
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Replying to: kooly (May 17, 2007 8:04 am) There are now only 2 dealers in Rochester. Carlisle Mitsubishi no longer exists, correct? That leaves us Marina and Cortese. I think I know which one. That would be the one closer to Lake Ontario, correct? Buffalo dealerships had plenty more in stock. The one off Transit Road is the one I stopped in at recently. Again, no clue as to what they would discount. The other writer in this forum got his for $1200. off factory invoice, which I assume also includes a port fee and advertising fee and financial reserve? These are numbers NEVER MENTIONED with companies like Edmunds or KBB, as they claim those numbers can and do vary regionally, except the port fee? Either way, please confirm with me which dealership and name of sales person privately. My email address will be avbl in my profile this weekend thru Monday evening. Also...why the Lancer over the new Nissan Sentra? Just curious, I was cross shopping them. Sentra does a bit better with fuel consumption, and is definitely quieter on the inside. Seats were great too, in the Sentra.
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Replying to: ike3 (May 19, 2007 4:55 am) In my entirely subjective opinion, the Sentra is UGG-LEE. I also was contemplating the Sentra, but once I saw how well styled the new Lancer looked it was no contest. One thing that really irked me about the Sentra was the elimination of Bluetooth and steering wheel audio controls on the SE-R. Why did Nissan have to decontent their sporty model? Usually when you move up the model ladder more options become available, not less! The only excuse I can come up with is that Nissan thinks the Sentra SL with the standard engine is their top rung model and gets all the gee-whiz gadgets. |
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Replying to: ike3 (May 19, 2007 4:55 am) I can't stand it when salesman and sales managers and finance managers play games and drag it out. Honestly, the dealer I was at did a bit of that, along with a four square sheet, and out here I have seen it at other dealers (Ford, Pontiac to a minor degree, and especially Mazda). It's all a game... more often than not the salesman goes over to the business manager and they shoot the crap or discuss options to try and get you higher than where you want to be or otherwise discuss what the salesman has learned about you that is to their advantage... and they chew the fat and otherwise eat up time. The salesmanager knows his margin on the car, what he will offer on trade at most and what he would rather get, etc... and can punch it all into his workstation and get instant numbers; they are simply trying to figure out your weaknesses and where to attack while wearing you down. |
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Replying to: ellusionz21 (May 14, 2007 3:55 pm) I live in the dallas area, but would be willing to take a road trip to florida Have one question as well: fees listed by you include $200 for documents and title, $200 for tags and registration, and $17 for electronic filing. Do you think any of these were optional? I mean, some only list $150 as total fees. And NOT saying its still not a great price! You did great! PS anyone in the Dallas area come close to this deal? pumpkin
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