Last post on Sep 30, 2013 at 5:13 PM
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Volkswagen New Beetle, Electrical, Oil
#35 of 146 Re: Headlamp replacement New Beetle [jrieger]
Nov 05, 2007 (12:27 pm)
I followed the instructions to replace the driver's side headlamp, found it really difficult to pull hard enough on the black plastic lever to release the headlight assembly, was careful to set the assembly on the two tracks before pushing it back in, and can not get the assembly to latch back into place. Any suggestions for this 2003 VW New Beetle Turbo? What kind of lubricant can be used on the gray plastic tracks on which the assembly slides?
#36 of 146 Re: Headlamp replacement New Beetle [shapiro]
Nov 05, 2007 (7:54 pm)
I think this system was really a good setup when it was new and clean. However, the dirt and filth that get into the mechanism is the culprit.
Try to remove as much as you can. I used a dry spray but I guess about any slick product will work. The secret to getting the unit back in is about the same as removal.
While your pushing up? on the lever bump the front of the light with the palm of your hand rapidly. Your trying to vibrate the track system while pushing in on the light.
Hope this helps!
#37 of 146 Re: VW Beetle, 2000 Electrical system failure [bill142]
Nov 19, 2007 (1:22 pm)
I have same trouble with 98 Beetle. Have you had any luck finding the cause?
#38 of 146 Re: VW Beetle, 2000 Electrical system failure [ricktrick3]
Nov 19, 2007 (1:43 pm)
JReier was correct - it's the dirt. The seal around the headlamp is not tight, and allows a tornado of dirt to enter the internal tracks of its housing. The dirt does not blow away, and sticks to the mechanism of the locking ring, preventing the motion to unlock it. It was extremely difficult to remove the headlamp assembly, but once out, it is relatively easy to clean all three tracks inside the cavity, and possible but not easy to clean the locking ring so that is rotates freely. Once all is clean of dirt, mire, grit and gunk, and well lubricated with a compound that will not degrade the plastic, you have to line up all three protrusions from the headlight assembly with the corresponding tracks inside the cavity, push the assembly in until it rests on the tracks, remove the cover over the fuses, push down hard on the lever on the locking mechanism to align its internal opening with the locking pin on the headlight assembly, push this assembly into the car to engage the pin with the locking mechanism, then pull up HARD on the lever while pushing the headlight assembly in until you hear a click. Replace the fuse cover.
#39 of 146 99 beetle headlighs and other elec. inop.
Nov 21, 2007 (4:57 am)
I have a 99 beetle that headlights, turn signal,heat/ac blower,wipers,parking brake light are not working. fuses and fuse block on top of battery are ok. I would like to repair myself if possible, please help. thanks Ricktick3
#40 of 146 Re: EPC LIGHT [kaitross]
Nov 24, 2007 (4:13 am)
I was number 10 in this string of VW Beetle light issues back in April 2007. I have still not found out what the problem is and it is still ocurring. Recently I have had my red oil can light set off a loud siren which continues on a regular basis for hours - similar to the one that goes off briefly when you need gas only - louder and more obnoxious. It always occurs when my temperature light stays on instead of going off - which is always blue. I took it in and numerous times to Bill Jacobs VW dealer on Ogden in Naperville IL. I paid for a new signals around $400.00. Still not working - they kept it for over 2 weeks while I had a loaner. No luck! They can not replicate the issue. So the day I go to pick it up they told me that I need my water pump and oil pan replaced for 1,300. I told them I want a second opinion and the second opinion told me that it those parts did not need replaced. I was treated badly at Bill Jacobs and do not recommend anyone going to them for service. The service manager Mike Jozwiak treated me horrible because even though he had my car for two weeks, he did not know the what was going on and just kept defending this position that his mechanics said that the water pump and oil pan needed replacing. He finally offered to take off 300 to have them replaced and I refused.
I would drive far to a VW Dealer who could fix my car! I love my 2001 Beetle and it only has 58,000 on it! I am suprised that the Beetles have so many problems with this and VW has done nothing to correct this issue! Help!
#41 of 146 Re: Rear hatch sensor [madmax85]
Dec 09, 2007 (11:55 pm)
When I bought my 2001 used beetle similar things happened. The battery needed replaced. It was making the electricle system do strange things.
#42 of 146 1998 beetle problems
Dec 14, 2007 (5:28 pm)
i have a 99 beetle and i have changed the mass air flow, twice and now the mpg has gone down tremendously . i have replaced the plugs and wires, fuel filter also, but the weird thing is that my buddy has a nice computer and when he hook it up, it was showing the car was doing 91 mph while in idle position.Has any one ever heard of this.Please give me some insight of this..Thank
#43 of 146 6 volt beetle
Dec 22, 2007 (12:36 am)
'63, 1300cc:6 volt batt. are $$$$,hard to find (none wally world),and short lived(10 Mos.).
Converting to 12V is a hassle too.
Why can't I put in an 12 volt batt.(under-charged at 'say'at 6-9 volts.Will not the generator maintain the batt.at the gen. output volts of (8.2 v)?I'm tempted to try it. What's your thoughts?