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Chrysler T&C/Dodge Grand Caravan brakes

128 messages,  Last post on Jan 17, 2013 at 5:56 PM

You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chrysler Town and Country, Dodge Grand Caravan, Brakes, Van

Messages Page 2 of 14

#6 of 128 Brake Caliper Tool by cactusjack578

May 12, 2007 (8:25 am)

I have an 03 Town and Country with four wheel disc brakes. What tool do I need to remove the calipers? I'm talking about the 2 bolts on the back of the caliper that needs to be removed in order to remove the calipers. Is it a Torx or Hex bolt and what size is it? Thanks, Jack

#7 of 128 Re: town and country 06 brakes [donajlp] by playtime

May 15, 2007 (8:58 am)

Replying to: donajlp (May 09, 2007 8:50 pm)
I have heard others complain about the short life of the brakes on our mini-vans and I think its crazy to say the least and a lack of the words I would like to use but in your case its just plain nuts. I am wondering if the heat isn't causing the master cylinder to stay partly engaged from the fuild getting so hot. If you can and have a floor jack I suggest after a trip out and about and then when you reach home use the floor jack and jack up each wheel in a safe location as not to hurt your van or yourself and see if the wheels will turn early in other words that they are not dragging. Also pull the brake fuild cover off and feel the brake fuild to see if it is hot.Either case would show the brakes are over heating and you might need to change to a different type of brake pad material. Chrysler using a real soft brake lining "ever noticed all that black dust on your once clean wheels" thats what is causing it. So many people complained about their brakes being noisy as in chirping and squilling they changed pad material. I have 23,000 on my T&C and I still have over 70% of my linings left aprox. before they will need replacing but I am going to have them replaced with a semi-metalic pad soon and live with the noice if any. That type of pad is harder on the rotors and they do not operate as good as the original pads untill they get up to operating temperture in other works once they have been used for a few times they work better with each stop after. In your case with rotors having to be replaced so often it would be worth the change if your only getting 6,000 miles out of them anyway. I hate that dust and I hate cleaning my wheels twice a week and I hate cheap brake pads. Whats a little noise once in a while if this might help your problem. But your whole brake system needs to be checked out you might even have defective brake hose that go to the calipers that are explaning once the fuild gets hot. Brakes are complicated if a auto company takes the easy way out. Good Luck please let us know how you make out dollar wise also ok. Thank You Jack - playtime

#8 of 128 Have you tried Ceramic Pads? by paulwoo

May 15, 2007 (10:54 pm)

Town & Country and Caravans are known for their front brake problems. I’m on my second T&C now I had 1997 T&C and I currently drive an 03 T&C Limited. These brakes last about 18 month on my driving 24,000 miles a year of mostly freeway driving.
I eliminated my problems by replacing my front rotors to EBC Sport Rotors (Drilled & Slotted). Brembo also makes one just like it. These rotors lets dust and gas escape through the slots and dimples to keep your brakes cool. I match them with a Raybestos QuietStop Non-Ferrous Ceramic Pads . These pads come with a limited lifetime warranty.
If you can take off lug nuts off of your tire and unscrew two bolts off of your caliper you should be able to do this your self with little effort.

#9 of 128 Re: going on third set of brakes [chp3ril] by hansienna

May 20, 2007 (9:22 am)

Replying to: chp3ril (Apr 14, 2007 7:30 am)
My 2002 T&C LX disc brake original pads had more than half the wear remaining when they were measured by the dealer at 36,390 miles. The 2002 T&C LX had an overall AVERAGE fuel economy of 22.3 MPG at that time. Best mileage was 28.2 MPG on a long 1409 mile round trip.
 
Based on my experience with the 02 T&C, the T&C have OUTSTANDING brakes for both stopping and lasting a long time.

#10 of 128 Re: going on third set of brakes [hansienna] by xwesx

May 21, 2007 (10:31 am)

Replying to: hansienna (May 20, 2007 9:22 am)
original pads had more than half the wear remaining when they were measured by the dealer at 36,390 miles
 
That does not sound very good to me, but that is still quite a bit better than 6,000 miles!
 
I changed out the original pads on my '96 Legacy wagon at 144K for the fronts and 196K for the rears. The higher revving engine makes for less braking though.

#11 of 128 Re: going on third set of brakes [xwesx] by axr6

May 30, 2007 (9:05 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (May 21, 2007 10:31 am)
I got an 2006 T&C a couple of months back. I live in a hilly area with some steep grades. The first time I descended on a steep grade my front brakes were smelling pretty bad. I was in driving in LOW (2nd gear). Not much engine braking in that gear.
 
Talked to a local mechanic and he told me that these vans have a real problem with brakes on hills. According to him there is some kind of sensor that puts nearly all braking power on the front wheels when sensing a down grade.
 
So, now I slow to 25 MPH on the steep down-hill and have the transmission shift into 1st and use that gear to descend. This way I practically don't touch the brakes the whole way.
 
Interestingly I also had a company car (GC) that had its brakes last 94K miles. But, it was driven mostly on level grounds.

#12 of 128 Re: going on third set of brakes [axr6] by xwesx

Jun 10, 2007 (11:28 am)

Replying to: axr6 (May 30, 2007 9:05 pm)
So, now I slow to 25 MPH on the steep down-hill and have the transmission shift into 1st and use that gear to descend. This way I practically don't touch the brakes the whole way.
 
I recently purchased a '98 GC, and I found the same thing. The only gear that provides any appreciable engine braking is 1st. I know its brakes will not last as long because I already find myself having to use them far more than on any other car I have ever owned. It really took some getting used to letting off the accelerator and not having it slow down right away. Then again, I would not want a 3.8L V6 running at 2800-3000 RPM at highway speeds as it would not make for very good mileage.... Everything is a trade off.

#13 of 128 Baby your Transmission by paulwoo

Jun 12, 2007 (2:15 pm)

You will wear out the transmission and it will cost you $2000 for a rebuild. Weakest link in Chrysler Dodge Van products are their trany.
It's cheaper to buy ceramic pads. They last longer.

#14 of 128 Re: Baby your Transmission [paulwoo] by xwesx

Jun 12, 2007 (2:20 pm)

Replying to: paulwoo (Jun 12, 2007 2:15 pm)
That seems to be the consensus of what I have read about them. My van has 172,000 miles on it, so I expect I should go as easy as possible on it. It's funny, really. I drove the van to work yesterday and hit the brakes at least 12 times. I drove my truck (1969 Chevy C20) today and hit the brakes twice - the second time was to stop in my parking space.
 
While on the topic, though, I was thinking about towing... is that a no-no for these things?

#15 of 128 Re: Baby your Transmission [xwesx] by paulwoo

Jun 12, 2007 (3:31 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Jun 12, 2007 2:20 pm)
What I notice is that it free roll more than any other vehicle so you should plan ahead and save some gas. Is your Chevy a stick? This would explane why you don't use much brake.
 
It's OK to tow these things make sure they tow it from front and let rear wheels free roll.
 
I had to tow mine when the main board went bad at 86,000. It cost me $2000 for the board and 11days of rental and that doesn't include towing.
 
I did have 100,000 mile no deduction service contract from Chrysler. I paid $0, even free towing and free basic rental.
 
Thank God...

Messages Page 2 of 14

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