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Vans & Minivans Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Chrysler T&C/Dodge Grand Caravan brakes
68 messages, Last post on Oct 06, 2009 at 4:33 AM
You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
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Replying to: revol (Jul 26, 2008 4:07 pm) In my case, I had a hint that it was the master cylinder 'cause the brake pedal just didn't feel right (in addition to the smoke coming out from the wheel wells). Luck also has a certain amount to do with picking the right part to replace. Also, since I did the work myself, it only cost me the $150 or there 'bouts for the master cylinder.
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Replying to: srs_49 (Jul 27, 2008 2:42 pm) It can only be the problem......if it is applying a pressure to the master cylinder after the engine is started. I will lift the van and see if the resistence changes after the engine is started. I noticed an adjustment screw on the booster shaft and I'm not sure if this has to be adjusted. i did drive my van with the vacuum line to the booster disconnected....It made for hard braking....but the brakes still heated up. There are only two things left to check.....the ABS system could be, for some reason is applying a slight pressure....or the new (high end ) brake pads that I bought are causing the excessive heat. My 2000 caravan, which I still own and have owned for 5 years....does not have any brake issues...... I have done the brakes a few times....but I don't know how many miles in between brake jobs. But I do know that I have always put cheap pads in that van.....So maybe its the high end pads on my 2004 that are causing the problem.....even though I can't beleive that myself.
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Spoke with another brake shop....who told me brakes just run real hot. After reading some of the other e-mails...I'm starting to believe that the brakes on these vans are not big enough for the van.... maybe my problem....was just driving on a steep hill for a long time. I've got a 3,000 km drive coming up....so I think I will drive and see how it goes.
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Replying to: revol (Jul 28, 2008 9:43 am) Can you jack the van up in the front, take off the wheels, turn the engine on, put it in gear, and watch the rotors turn? Or leave it in neutral and try to turn the hub/rotor yourself by hand. There should be a light drag. |
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Replying to: revol (Jul 27, 2008 3:45 pm) Did you research the brake proportioning valve issue that I suggested you check way back on July 19?
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Replying to: tedebear (Jul 28, 2008 2:41 pm) The ABS controls the pressure on all the wheels. I do think you are right....but I am disapointed that there is no test to check for this. we are heading back home ....and I will try not to use the brakes too much |
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| Bought our 05 T&C with 30k on the odo. Don't know if brakes were original at that time or not, late in 05. But we've put on 30k since then, and just now had to replace the pads for the first time. Pads were almost non-existent, so I got as much out of them as possible. Flat roads here, lots of city miles though. Maybe it already had better than OEM pads put on when we bought it. Anyway, will be interesting to see how long these new pads last. | |
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Last spring I drove my daughter's 2000 Chrysler AWD (disc/disc) T&C minivan for the first time in ~3-4 years. The brakes did not have the right "feel" IMMHO so I had her take it back to the Les Schwab service shop, Redmond WA, where she had brake work done last Nov. In Nov. Les Schwab had turned the rotors, replaced both front front calipers with rebuilts, and installed new brake pads F & R. When she took it back they said the brakes were operating normally but they drained and refilled the brake fluid and bled the brake system anyway. I didn't drive the van again until about six weeks ago and the brakes still didn't feel right to me. "Normal" braking seemed to be okay but if I tried to stop more quickly than normal the brakes didn't seem to grab or take-hold adequately. Back to Les Schwab yet again who after driving it told me the brakes felt normal to the service technician. Not being satisfied I took it to the Kirkland Chrysler who, the service manager, without even test driving the car told me that Les Schwab, because they warrant the life of the brake pads, typically use "longer lasting" brake pads rather than pads that will provide the best braking HP. So, off to Napa to purchase and install their Ceramix front pads. No difference. Next, back to Kirkland Chrysler to pay $500 to install a new master cylinder on the chance the wrong one was installed 3-4 years ago down in the south bay area of CA. Again, No help. And the master cylinder that was removed proved to have the correct (25.4 mm - 1 inch) cylinder bore required for the T&C AWD disc/disc braking system. Since Kirkland Les Schwab happened to be right next door I drove into their shop and asked to have the vehicle test driven. The technician, upon returning, drove the van directly into the service bay and put it onto a lift. He told me that the van's brakes were definitely not operating correctly. After reseaching all the Les Schwab invoices and work orders my daughter had retained he concluded that the wrong front brake calipers had been installed by their Redmond shop. Within an hour, no charge, he had the "correct" (correct by Les Schwab's computer database) front calipers installed along with yet another set of new front brake pads. Guess what..?? Right, it didn't help. I have just ordered a new proportioning valve ($75) from Kirkland Chrysler which I will have them installed. Estimated arrival in a week. The way I read the factory service manual the AWD van uses a "fixed" proportioning valve which doesn't come into play until the master cylinder brake pressure rises to about 1000 PSI. Apparently at that pressure level it will have activated and limited, limits, the rear braking pressure to 690 to 800 PSI. That might mean that if the proportioning valve has failed then both front and rear brakes will continue to get equal pressure distribution even during hard/severe/panic braking thereby WASTING braking effort at the mostly "do-nothing" rear brakes when the weight shifts to/toward the front due to deceleration/inertia. Have I missed something/anything..?? 
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I emailed the above desertation to Les Schwab headquarters in Prineville OR and they have now agreed to test the proportioning valve operating pressures at no charge.
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| I bought this van used from my uncle a couple years ago, and for as long as I can remember, there has been a mildly irritating 'NNNNNNNNNNN' noise when you hit the brake pedal. I've been told this is the brake boost system. Two weeks ago, I lost some brake fluid onto the driveway and my ABS and BRAKE lights were on the dash. The annoying noise was now a constant. The pedal was very hard (took both feet to stop it), then suddenly the lights went out and the pedal come back up. Everything's been okay until today. Same thing, but now there is no noise, just a hard pedal and idiot lights. Did I lose the booster? I see that some of the components have a lifetime warranty, but wondering if those of you have experienced the same thing can offer the most efficient way of dealing with this. I appreciate any info you can pass along! I just lost my job, so cheapest fix (even if I have to convert to a manual braking system) is best. Thanks for reading/responding! | |
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