Last post on Jan 17, 2013 at 11:44 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Metro/Geo Metro
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Chevrolet Metro, Geo Metro, Hatchback
#49 of 67 2001 Chevy Metro Purchase
Oct 16, 2008 (9:22 am)
We are looking to buy a 2001 chevy metro sedan w/50,000 miles from a private owner. Most all the consumer reviews I've read have been very positive re safety, reliability, gas mileage, etc. We plan to use this back and forth to the train and for daily college commute for our son. Before we commit we'll have our mechanic take a look. Any pros/cons on this car and any specific things our mechanic should look for before purchasing?
Oct 16, 2008 (9:46 am)
Automatic or stick? From 1996 forward Air Bags were required I believe. Be sure the Air Bags are functional and be wary if they were ever deployed, then why? I had a 2000 and had no complaints. I lost mine to my kids because it was and automatic and sold it to raise money for a Toyota Camry that became our nightmare. Mine had 175,000 miles on it and it still runs like a top, one of my neighbors bought it for his daughter. Watch out for rust and consider if you get a straight body, a Japanese engine is only about $800. plus labor and thats not bad if you get it cheap enough. Less than 50,000 miles will mean paying a premium for the car you find and if its cheap with 50k on it, find out why? These little cars are going up in price when in good cond. by 2000 there was a glut of 4 cyc. with automatics.
#51 of 67 Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection.
Oct 20, 2008 (6:24 pm)
1994 Geo Metro, 1.3-automatic, 3-cylinder, 2-door hatchback. Mileage=40,272, automatic. I purchased this car used and needing repair. After eliminating the Ignition sensors one-by-one, I purchased the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Digital Transmission Range Sensor?) It's location is up in the steering column, It is a black circuit box marked with a "P".
Part #4339, CON SN 7614 REV CI, PG 2007-4.
On one end there are 4-connections:
2-push on connectors,
1-plastic with 6-wires in this order: Red, orange, purple, green, black-thick dull, red.
1-plastic with 3-wires in this order: Red, Black-thin shiney, Black-thick dull.
Empty slot: says CN4
The Blk-thick dull connected to Blk/Yellow wire.
The Blk-thin-shiney connected to green wire.
The Red, connected to White/Blue comming from ignition (using clip connection).
The Blk-thick dull, to Black/Yellow comming from ignition (using clip connection).
And 2-Blk-thin shiney wires to ground screw.
Slot says CN5
On the other side of the part there is a white cable with a hint of brown on the #1 position (looks like a computer IDE ribbon), or like a computer drive cable, about 1-inch wide and 18-inches long.
I do not know where this cable goes, or what it hooks into. The car won't run without this part connected, and functional.
This car was stolen, I just regained possession after 8-months. It was mal-treated physically. It was also hot-wired, but no wiring was cut; they rigged a toggle switch from the alternator by alligator clips, and ran the wires to driver's seat where the toggle switch was.
The car was running the other day, but my son's friend somehow-accidently disconnected this cable, now the car won't run and I can't locate where it should run to for connection.
I am moving and have only a couple of days to remove our possessions, and have no other way to to this. I am extremely grateful for your advice, and consideration. Thank you.
#52 of 67 Re: Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection. [researchwhiz]
Oct 22, 2008 (10:43 am)
My neutral safety switch died also (98 4cyl automatc, geo metro). My transmission specialist disconnected it - told me to drive it like a stick with no clutch. Everyone I spoke to grumbled & said that cant be good for the car. But guess what ? I've been driving it that way over a year and its just fine ! I don't drive it over 60mph because I think its really doesnt feel right uphill on the highway going over 60 (it feels like its straining) But I don't mind staying under 60mph because I used to get speeding tickets! Besides my Geo Metro gets 35 - 39 miles per gallon and I will keep trying to ressurrect this car from the dead until I just cant no more. I put a new catalytic converter,muffler,long pipe, fuel filter & fuel pump in during the 3 yrs (total cost $$700) since I bought it for $4G off a used car lot. I keep finding junk men & mechanics coming to me with 13 inch tires they cant give away so I get tires cheap (snows too). I intend to put another used engine in it very soon because I was stupid enough to let the oil get down to nothing 2 times which distorted 1 out of 4 of the wrist pins. I'm keeping oil topped off & using Lucas oil stbilizer until my mechanic locates an engine. I can not afford another used car and I'd never find another with this MPG so I hope to keep driving my Geo another two or three years, then retire it for parts for maybe a newer used Chevy Metro. Good luck with yours. Remember . . you may be able to drive yours with the Neutral Safety Switch discconnected like I do. I swear it has been just fine that way. I will even give you my transmission mechanics business phone number & you can ask him yourself !
#53 of 67 Re: Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection. [suz13]
Oct 23, 2008 (2:29 am)
Thank you for your advice. By the way, the IDE-ribbon I've been trying to locate connection and purpose for is actually a diagnostic tool connector. I had no idea there was another beside the one fastened under the dash.
#54 of 67 1996 Geo Metro needs Fuel Guage Sending Unit?
Oct 23, 2008 (1:35 pm)
Ah the down side to owning a Geo! My mechanic sent me out in search of this part and junk yards seem to work best for the smaller components. Does any one have advise on who might have this part? RockAuto.com had these for most of the Geo Trackers, but none for the Metro. Someone else has surely faced this similiar shortage of parts.
I am 70 miles from Los Angeles, so I would think if there was a supply, they might have a source close by.
#55 of 67 The Storm
Nov 16, 2008 (11:20 am)
I got a '91 Storm I traded for a '77 F-150. It's got the 1.8 and 5 speed. When I get on it (alone) I can get around 38 mpg and when I take it easy, I have gotten over 42. I know there are other things I can do to improve it a little, but I'm happy with what I get since it's hard to get parts for it...
#56 of 67 Re: poor mpg's [4_banger]
Jul 01, 2009 (4:27 pm)
If the compression is within manufacturer's specs in EVERY cylinder, the fuel and air filters have been replaced, the entire exhaust system is absolutely stock and has no leaks, and there are no modifications to the air intake, the EGR system, the inlet air temperature sensor, or the ignition timing; I would consider that the throttle position sensor may need to be adjusted to a leaner position. This adjustment has a major effect on fuel economy; and the stock setting often becomes unsuitable due to changes in fuel blends, engine condition, and choice of spark plug brands. There is no hard and fast spec for optimizing the throttle position sensor adjustment. The drill is to loosen the two mounting screws and rotate the unit counterclockwise (leaner) in a series of small steps; with a test drive after each adjustment change, until the engine begins to falter, surge, or lose power. Then turn the unit a small amount clockwise until the driveability just returns. See what that does for the gas mileage; and after reading your feedback, I can offer more from that point.
Jul 01, 2009 (11:39 am)
i have a 96 metro 4 cyl. auto. and i can't get over 27 mpg's. i pretty much drive 55mph to work and back with very little in town driving. i thought these cars did better on gas. not that 27mpg is horrible but 35 sounds better any advice. the car only has 60,000 miles on it and is maintianed regularly.