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Chevy/Geo Metro Real World MPG

64 messages,  Last post on Aug 06, 2009 at 7:57 PM

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#45 of 64 90geo metro by seaman59 Jul 29, 2008 (1:43 pm)
Can bad motor mounts cause the car to sound like a loud truck?: :confuse:Also can bad motor cause bad mpg?
#46 of 64 Metro MPG by chodkowski Aug 12, 2008 (7:14 pm)
Thanks to everyone out there, I have learned alot about my metro from reading forums. I have a 2000 manual 3 cylinder metro. I've been reading hypermileing techniques and I keep my tires maxed, slow down, time red lights and just get my car up to speed and barely touch the accelarator to keep the car moving. I get average mileage between 54-58 city/hwy mixed. My top mpg has been 68.2. We have it all with this car, gas sipping 3 cylinder engine plus the car weighs nothing. 50% of your mpg's is the driver.                                          thankyou Replies to this message: fincenmib (Oct 13, 2008 10:43 pm)
#47 of 64 Re: In the 40 mpg range ! [suz13] by tlworkroom Aug 14, 2008 (11:12 am)
Replying to: suz13 (Jul 23, 2008 10:27 pm) I have a beatup 1991 Geo Prizm 4 cyl with AT, purchsed with 120K on engine, and took me 3 years to fully clean up engine, mostly inside. Started with about 28 mpg hwy/25 city. Over years, got it up to 30 mpg hwy AND city for several years. But this spring, did many changes, especially installing Bosch "+2" plugs, and started getting around 35 mpg hwy. (new Bosch plugs gave me better mpg and also generally better mild acceleration.) Drove to Iowa and back to NM, (with 240K miles on engine) and was even getting 38-9 mpg hwy on way back!! Thot I had a constant tailwind.   Driving mostly 60-65 mph. But even up to 75 still got me mid 30's. I was astonished, and still am getting about 33 mpg city now!! I love Geo's!! (Also have always used Prolong oil additive to help engine run smoother. Firm believer in its ability to help my engine last so long up to 240K miles. Will have a celebration when it gets to 300K.)
#48 of 64 Re: Metro MPG [chodkowski] by fincenmib Oct 13, 2008 (10:43 pm)
Replying to: chodkowski (Aug 12, 2008 7:14 pm) Your posting is what I was looking for all day today! The projected mileage posible if driven carefully. I owned a 2000 Geo Metro with the 4 cyc Automatic and 42 mpg was my best tank. I averaged 37 mpg in my highway driving, about 30 mpg on mixed driving. The car moved like a "bat out of hell", it was fast for a 4 banger. My kids inhereted it and I bought another car and later a truck. The kids wanted power steering and a year later, my neighbor bought my Geo, he still has it.   With high gas prices I went out looking for a 3 cyc. Stick and bought one on ebay. It was a 300 mile drive one way to get a pretty straight body. I checked with my mechanic first about dropping a low mileage Japanese engine in, assumng one might be needed. One was needed, it was burning 1 quart of oil per 100 miles, OUCH! The good side was I drove it 800 miles and fuels it every 110 miles to check fuel consumption. Filling into the neck, it got 46-55 mpg with a bad engine! Not bad!   With a new to me engine and trans, I am hoping to get that 68.2 you mentioned. I want to try a few long trips without gimmick products, then consider some of those later. I am one of those that deposited $500. on a future Aptera, so the Geo is keeping me busy until the SUPERCAR goes into production. I have driven 5,000 miles in the past 25 days, so I need something that scores record mpg.   Thanks for the mpg info you posted.   Jay
#49 of 64 2001 Chevy Metro Purchase by looking4acar1 Oct 16, 2008 (9:22 am)
We are looking to buy a 2001 chevy metro sedan w/50,000 miles from a private owner. Most all the consumer reviews I've read have been very positive re safety, reliability, gas mileage, etc. We plan to use this back and forth to the train and for daily college commute for our son. Before we commit we'll have our mechanic take a look. Any pros/cons on this car and any specific things our mechanic should look for before purchasing?
#50 of 64 Geo by fincenmib Oct 16, 2008 (9:46 am)
Automatic or stick? From 1996 forward Air Bags were required I believe. Be sure the Air Bags are functional and be wary if they were ever deployed, then why? I had a 2000 and had no complaints. I lost mine to my kids because it was and automatic and sold it to raise money for a Toyota Camry that became our nightmare. Mine had 175,000 miles on it and it still runs like a top, one of my neighbors bought it for his daughter. Watch out for rust and consider if you get a straight body, a Japanese engine is only about $800. plus labor and thats not bad if you get it cheap enough. Less than 50,000 miles will mean paying a premium for the car you find and if its cheap with 50k on it, find out why? These little cars are going up in price when in good cond. by 2000 there was a glut of 4 cyc. with automatics.   jb
#51 of 64 Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection. by researchwhiz Oct 20, 2008 (6:24 pm)
1994 Geo Metro, 1.3-automatic, 3-cylinder, 2-door hatchback. Mileage=40,272, automatic. I purchased this car used and needing repair. After eliminating the Ignition sensors one-by-one, I purchased the Park/Neutral Safety Switch (Digital Transmission Range Sensor?) It's location is up in the steering column, It is a black circuit box marked with a "P".   Part #4339, CON SN 7614 REV CI, PG 2007-4.   On one end there are 4-connections: Side One: 2-push on connectors, 1-plastic with 6-wires in this order: Red, orange, purple, green, black-thick dull, red. 1-plastic with 3-wires in this order: Red, Black-thin shiney, Black-thick dull.   SIDE ONE: Empty slot: says CN4 The Blk-thick dull connected to Blk/Yellow wire. The Blk-thin-shiney connected to green wire. The Red, connected to White/Blue comming from ignition (using clip connection). The Blk-thick dull, to Black/Yellow comming from ignition (using clip connection). And 2-Blk-thin shiney wires to ground screw.   SIDE TWO: Slot says CN5 On the other side of the part there is a white cable with a hint of brown on the #1 position (looks like a computer IDE ribbon), or like a computer drive cable, about 1-inch wide and 18-inches long.   I do not know where this cable goes, or what it hooks into. The car won't run without this part connected, and functional.   This car was stolen, I just regained possession after 8-months. It was mal-treated physically. It was also hot-wired, but no wiring was cut; they rigged a toggle switch from the alternator by alligator clips, and ran the wires to driver's seat where the toggle switch was.   The car was running the other day, but my son's friend somehow-accidently disconnected this cable, now the car won't run and I can't locate where it should run to for connection.   I am moving and have only a couple of days to remove our possessions, and have no other way to to this. I am extremely grateful for your advice, and consideration. Thank you. Replies to this message: suz13 (Oct 22, 2008 10:43 am) researchwhiz (Oct 23, 2008 2:29 am)
#52 of 64 Re: Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection. [researchwhiz] by suz13 Oct 22, 2008 (10:43 am)
Replying to: researchwhiz (Oct 20, 2008 6:24 pm) My neutral safety switch died also (98 4cyl automatc, geo metro). My transmission specialist disconnected it - told me to drive it like a stick with no clutch. Everyone I spoke to grumbled & said that cant be good for the car. But guess what ? I've been driving it that way over a year and its just fine ! I don't drive it over 60mph because I think its really doesnt feel right uphill on the highway going over 60 (it feels like its straining) But I don't mind staying under 60mph because I used to get speeding tickets! Besides my Geo Metro gets 35 - 39 miles per gallon and I will keep trying to ressurrect this car from the dead until I just cant no more. I put a new catalytic converter,muffler,long pipe, fuel filter & fuel pump in during the 3 yrs (total cost $$700) since I bought it for $4G off a used car lot. I keep finding junk men & mechanics coming to me with 13 inch tires they cant give away so I get tires cheap (snows too). I intend to put another used engine in it very soon because I was stupid enough to let the oil get down to nothing 2 times which distorted 1 out of 4 of the wrist pins. I'm keeping oil topped off & using Lucas oil stbilizer until my mechanic locates an engine. I can not afford another used car and I'd never find another with this MPG so I hope to keep driving my Geo another two or three years, then retire it for parts for maybe a newer used Chevy Metro. Good luck with yours. Remember . . you may be able to drive yours with the Neutral Safety Switch discconnected like I do. I swear it has been just fine that way. I will even give you my transmission mechanics business phone number & you can ask him yourself ! Replies to this message: researchwhiz (Oct 23, 2008 2:29 am)
#53 of 64 Re: Location of Neutral Safety Switch Cable Connection. [suz13] by researchwhiz Oct 23, 2008 (2:29 am)
Replying to: suz13 (Oct 22, 2008 10:43 am) Thank you for your advice. By the way, the IDE-ribbon I've been trying to locate connection and purpose for is actually a diagnostic tool connector. I had no idea there was another beside the one fastened under the dash.
#54 of 64 1996 Geo Metro needs Fuel Guage Sending Unit? by fincenmib Oct 23, 2008 (1:35 pm)
Ah the down side to owning a Geo! My mechanic sent me out in search of this part and junk yards seem to work best for the smaller components. Does any one have advise on who might have this part? RockAuto.com had these for most of the Geo Trackers, but none for the Metro. Someone else has surely faced this similiar shortage of parts.   I am 70 miles from Los Angeles, so I would think if there was a supply, they might have a source close by.   Thanks/Jay

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