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SUVs GMC Jimmy GMC Jimmy Differential Problems
21 messages, Last post on Jun 24, 2009 at 8:35 AM
You are in the GMC Jimmy Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Hi everyone. I am currently rebuilding a 1995 Jimmy SLS 4x4. We bought this with a blown V6 Vortec due to the remote oil filter line breaking and KaBlam went the motor. In any event, we've pulled the front clip, removed the engine, transmission and transfer case. While pulling this out, we noticed the front axles were missing and that the previous owners ran a bolt through each hub with washers to hold things in place. This leads me to believe that either these guys blew the CVC's and didn't have the cash to replace them, or something happened to the differential. How can we check the diff now that things are removed to make sure it works? We rotated the drive shaft coupling and then engaged the cable to put it into 4 wheel. The drivers side axle starts turning but the passenger side does not. I'm assuming this is a limited slip diff, unlike our 4Runners. So how can I make sure it's working before throwing everything together? By the way, we've had to replace everything on the front end of this thing, so the old owners must have really beat the crap out of it. this is what makes suspect on the diff. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
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Replying to: upnorthjimmy (Apr 08, 2007 12:35 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 09, 2007 3:01 am) Update... We engaged the 4 wheel drive and stopped the drivers side from turning, however the passenger side wheel did nothing. Now the passenger side rotor is pretty rusted and can be a bit hard to turn, so it hangs up on the brakes. Would this be enough to stop the passenger side from turning at all? How hard should it be to stop one side from turning? Because it wasn't that hard to stop the driver's side from turning at all. You could feel it "catching" and trying to turn while it was jammed, but it seemed the passenger side was doing nothing. I'm not use to this sort of thing because our 4Runners don't behave like this at all. I'll check the fluids and make sure I don't see pieces of metal, just in case the passenger side spider gear is blown. I don't hear anything clunking, grinding or hanging up, but you never know since you're turning things by hand and not with the force and speed of an engine.
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Replying to: upnorthjimmy (Apr 09, 2007 8:02 pm)
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Replying to: repairdog (Apr 10, 2007 2:37 am) I have everything here to rebuild the front, CVC's, rotors, hubs, ball joints, links, control arm bushings, etc... Update: In talking to the local GM dealer, they instructed me to rotate one of the tires while the differential is engaged and the other axle should turn the opposite way. We did this last night and that worked. Kind of dumb of me not to think of that myself. According to them, that lets you know the spider gears are working fine. They also mentioned that turning the driveshaft coupler by hand isn't a good test because you need a little more power than your hand to make things happen within the diff. In talking to them further, they told me that both differentials on this 95 Jimmy are "open end", not limited slip. I didn't quite understand what they were talking about, but it sounds like an "open end" is pretty lame compared to a limited slip. Oh well, what can you expect from GM anyway. I don't plan on taking this thing four wheeling like we do with the 4Runners. You can tell by looking at the frame and suspension it's not built as tough. It's going to be good transportation for my daughter. Anyway, thanks for all the help and if anyone has further information, please post!! Jim |
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Here is the thing, I was involved in a car accident on 7/6..rear eneded by a 90 year old. Brought it in to the body shop that his insurance told me to on 8/23...car ran fine, just cosmetic damages. They had the car for 4 weeks after we were told they had all the parts to do the repair. Got the car back and with in 3 hours the car was dead. Put a new battery in, died again. Changed fuses, died again. Obviously a dead short...now, after 3 mo's of my car not running (alternater is good) the repair shop that I brought it to says they believe it to be the front differension switch for the 4wd. They had to pull the dash to get a look at it...now they are talking 468.00 in repairs. I know that the accident did not make this happen, BUT, what I need to know is could the workmanship at the body shop have been at fault? All I know is that as of 7/6/06 my car was mint, no problems. And, now I am going to be shelling out $$$ for an accident that I was not a fault for! I'd like to have the man's insurance pay...if I can prove it was workmanship related...any advice?
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Replying to: jacki30 (Jan 31, 2007 10:10 am) I recommend asking in Questions About Auto Insurance & Accidents. tidester, host
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Replying to: tidester (Jan 31, 2007 10:41 am)
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Replying to: jacki30 (Jan 31, 2007 11:01 am) So, does it run fine then the battery dies in 3 hours? Damage to the rear only? More specifics needed. Also remember that only the 97 had a known defective ignition switch which is not the key/tumbler but the connector and harness in the column so depending on how hard the hit was that may be it. Could be wiring in the rear too. You should take it to the GM dealer - Oh, you are NOT required to take it where the other guys company sends you that is your choice and a free rental is law for a similar vehicle - talk to them and mention you are filing a complaint with the state insurance commissioner on their practices. Most Ins companies are full of BS and try to low ball everything.
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