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Honda CR-V Rear Differential Problem?

398 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 10:22 AM
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Replying to: scrapperanne (Jul 12, 2009 8:55 am) My dealer told me that the rear diff needs to be changed approximately every 15K miles. Now, given that I've put 50,000 miles on my car in the last 6 years, I don't drive it all that much. I've had my rear diff changed twice and it's due again. I live in Ohio, it runs me about $120 to have done and I wait for it. I've done normal maintenance on my car over the last six years, timing belt change, new clutch, oil changes, etc. and this CRV is absolutely the best car I've had to date hands down (I've had Toyotas and other Hondas as well). I think especially for a teen, this will be a great vehicle in good weather and bad - I have a 16 yo son who is learning to drive now, although isn't able to drive my 5 speed yet, but I wouldn't hesitate to get him the same thing. Good luck with the test drive - I would ask the dealer to make sure the rear diff is changed before you do take it - when I first bought mine (out of state), they told me it was the brakes, which I had replaced at that time. The rear diff is an easy fix.
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Replying to: 2001hondacrv (Jul 12, 2009 9:43 am)
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Replying to: scrapperanne (Jul 12, 2009 9:47 am) I change our rear diff fluid in our CRV every 30K and that's probably overkill. If you had read the fourms before you bought your Sienna, you probably wouldn't have bought it! Some V-6 Toyotas had problems with their oil sludging up and ruining the engines. The forums made it sound like EVERY Sienna was doomed to premature failure but as a percentage, very few were affected. The people who had the problems wee the people who stretched out their oil changes too long. I suppose if Sienna owners read these tales of sludge it may have led them to rethink their oil change schedule.
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Replying to: isellhondas (Jul 12, 2009 1:42 pm)
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Replying to: scrapperanne (Jul 13, 2009 5:21 am) V-6 Toyota engines probably are more sensitive to lack of oil changes than some other cars and people who skimp on oil changes end up with sludged engines. For people like you and me and most others, there would never be a problem. |
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Replying to: scrapperanne (Jul 12, 2009 8:37 am) I have yet to have to burnish the clutches. It is only needed when the noise is persistent. A simple fluid change is all it needs. Use Honda DPF od DPFII, there is no aftermarket alternative. Also, if the vehicle you are looking at is automatic, change the ATF as well. Use Honda ATF Z-1 only, there is no substitute. Brake fluid needs to be changed every 3 years, regardless of mileage. You can use Honda DOT3, or quality DOT 3 fluid. I prefer using Honda fluids in all of my Hondas. I do all my own maintenance, it is not difficult. A couple of jackstands, an SUV jack and a set of tools is all one would need. Helm Inc publishes the official shop manual for Honda, and sells them to the public. It is great for DIYer!!!! It has all the specs and detailed diagrams. If the CR-V you are looking at has the original Dueler H/T tires they are way past their useful life. When looking at tires, you should buy all 4 at the same time, as the AWD system is activated by the difference in rotation velocity between front and rear wheel. Different tires may or may not set it off and cause binding, overheating, and/or failure. I am just curious what you would consider a good deal on a 2005 CR-V EX AWD (I would assume) with 29,000 miles? |
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Replying to: Francisder (Jul 12, 2009 9:13 am) Thanks! Bob |
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Replying to: Francisder (Jul 12, 2009 9:13 am) http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A07-024.PDF Thanks! Bob |
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Replying to: isellhondas (Jun 26, 2009 6:12 am) You're assuming that oil at 7500 miles offers significantly less protection than at 4000. Why not change hte oil at 1000 then? Why is 3000 OK and 2000 too short??? The reality is 3000 miles itnervals were originally used as a standard for older cars with inferior engine seals, piston rings, incomplete combustion, among other issues. On top of that, oil quality and performance has improved dramatically. All mfg's recommed at least 5000 and most 7500 or even 10,000 unless it's "severe" duty, where the engine spnds a lot of time idling (taxis, police cars, commercial use) or at high RPM's (towing).
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