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Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems
92 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 7:42 AM
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Replying to: ksmedic (May 18, 2008 5:08 am) Bob |
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| Goes dead while driving. Will start up again. Have had it in two different shops a week at a time, and cannot find the problem. Brought it home from last shop 35 miles away and drove around town a few times. Tried to go out of town, but the vehicle jerked and then in a little bit, shut down. This was the first time for the jerking. Tried to drive on but after a few times of failing on the highway, went back home without a problem. It has a new fuel filter and pump and a sensor for crank shaft. Never had a problem with this vehicle until a couple months ago. Need help. | |
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The symptoms you describe indicate a loss of fuel pressure or volume IMHO. I believe most Chrysler products rely on the oil pressure sending unit to power the fuel pump relay which keeps the pump running after starting the engine... a safety guard in case of an accident which would shut off the pump if the engine isn't running after an accident. There are tests which can be run to determine which is at fault, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS. That being said, I'd replace Both the Oil pressure sending unit, AND the Fuel Pump relay, about $50.00 for parts. Note: Older Vans had the relay built into the ECM (Computer) and the whole thing needed to be replaced...expensive! Check with your parts supplier for listings on both parts. If the problem persists you have a bad fuel pump..."New" doesn't always mean "Good"! Good luck!
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Replying to: goldrench (Jun 28, 2008 11:58 am) |
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Well, yes and no. Some Chrysler products are difficult to make "talk" but there are ways if you have the right equipment and knowledge to use it. Very few shops have have both...WE do. Anyway, from what you said and describe at this point, I'd have to say you're experiencing a cam sensor, crank sensor or both failure when the engine reaches operating temperature on the warmest side. Here's how to do a simple test: Take a bottle of ice water with you on a test drive and when it (the car) quits douse the sensors one at a time and bingo! If it starts and runs normally you"ve found the problem. We've learned the hard way to replace both, even if only one is bad. If you need more you can e-mail me from our website www.goldenruleauto.com Bob
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Replying to: goldrench (Jul 03, 2008 10:36 am) |
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Replying to: mobilemec (Mar 31, 2007 8:27 pm)
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Replying to: vade2x2 (Jul 07, 2008 2:03 pm)
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Replying to: shipo (Jul 07, 2008 3:00 pm)
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Replying to: vade2x2 (Jul 09, 2008 12:35 pm) Okay, having a 3.0 liter engine means that you have the Mitsusquishy engine, not the best of the three V6s available for the minivans. The good news is that the lower end of the engine (i.e. the block, crank, pistons and rings) are pretty robust, however, the upper end is highly suspect. That you have no compression on the #5 cylinder means to me that there is a very high likelihood that you need to have the heads reconditioned. Unless you do the work yourself, you’re probably looking at well over $1,000 for the job. Sorry to be the bearer of the bad news. Best Regards, Shipo
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