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Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Caravan/Voyager Engine Problems
92 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 7:42 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
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i have a 96 voyager 3.0 that knocks not when i start it but about 2 3 min after and then it goes away after about 5 min but comes back sometimes when im driving .and i think im geting loss of power (its my grams van lookin at it for her) but it dont knock all the time .i drove it about 60 miles stoped reved the motor no noise. changed the oil slicked 50 it. started it no noise let it set all night and back to the same thing the motor has 100.000 miles on it oil changed every 3000 the van is ment dont know if the motor is bad (rode bearing ) or if its the crank sensor 
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Replying to: bounyhuner (Mar 17, 2008 6:45 am)  i was also told it was the motor that was bad
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Replying to: bounyhuner (Apr 02, 2008 1:00 am) I bought used 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SE, on April 17, 2008 (not even a month yet) from HENDRICK DODGE : Leading Dodge Dealership in Cary, North Carolina, NC Almost after a week this problem is happening, it is very random. It happened 3 times. Last time it happened at 15-20 miles per hour while I was making a right turn. The engines shuts down and steering locks. I could have met with a major accident last time when it happened. Took to the dealer from where I bought, he is saying that he could not reproduce the problem, so, as far as he is concerned, there is no problem. But this is major safety issue, it can pose great danger since it can cause major accident. I also got the full extended service warranty (full bumper to bumper) from Chrysler, they are not helping me either. They are saying since this vehicle is bought not even a month back, the problem came with the vehicle, they are asking the dealer to fix it. Any advice? |
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I have a 2000 dodge caravan. Wife was driving it yesterday when it experienced a loss of power and shut down while driving home. Let it sit for awhile, and it started back up. I drove it to work this morning, same thing. I had a similar problem with a 94 pontiac and it was the equivialant of a bad pickup sensor. Once the sensor cooled down, you could drive it until it got hot again and everything shut down. Relplaced the one in the pontiac and have had no problems since then. I plan on replacing the one in the van this week. Any other suggestions in case this is not the problem??? Thanks for any help you all can give me.
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Replying to: ksmedic (May 18, 2008 5:08 am) Bob |
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| Goes dead while driving. Will start up again. Have had it in two different shops a week at a time, and cannot find the problem. Brought it home from last shop 35 miles away and drove around town a few times. Tried to go out of town, but the vehicle jerked and then in a little bit, shut down. This was the first time for the jerking. Tried to drive on but after a few times of failing on the highway, went back home without a problem. It has a new fuel filter and pump and a sensor for crank shaft. Never had a problem with this vehicle until a couple months ago. Need help. | |
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The symptoms you describe indicate a loss of fuel pressure or volume IMHO. I believe most Chrysler products rely on the oil pressure sending unit to power the fuel pump relay which keeps the pump running after starting the engine... a safety guard in case of an accident which would shut off the pump if the engine isn't running after an accident. There are tests which can be run to determine which is at fault, WHEN THE PROBLEM OCCURS. That being said, I'd replace Both the Oil pressure sending unit, AND the Fuel Pump relay, about $50.00 for parts. Note: Older Vans had the relay built into the ECM (Computer) and the whole thing needed to be replaced...expensive! Check with your parts supplier for listings on both parts. If the problem persists you have a bad fuel pump..."New" doesn't always mean "Good"! Good luck!
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Replying to: goldrench (Jun 28, 2008 11:58 am) |
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Well, yes and no. Some Chrysler products are difficult to make "talk" but there are ways if you have the right equipment and knowledge to use it. Very few shops have have both...WE do. Anyway, from what you said and describe at this point, I'd have to say you're experiencing a cam sensor, crank sensor or both failure when the engine reaches operating temperature on the warmest side. Here's how to do a simple test: Take a bottle of ice water with you on a test drive and when it (the car) quits douse the sensors one at a time and bingo! If it starts and runs normally you"ve found the problem. We've learned the hard way to replace both, even if only one is bad. If you need more you can e-mail me from our website www.goldenruleauto.com Bob
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Replying to: goldrench (Jul 03, 2008 10:36 am) |
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