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Nissan Altima EGR Valve

2 messages,  Last post on Dec 12, 2007 at 6:53 AM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan Altima, Sedan


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Nissan Altima EGR Valve by iver729
Mar 21, 2007 (10:51 am)
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I have a 2000 Nissan Altima. I had the EGR Valve replaced in April of 2006. This month (March 2007) my check engine light came on. After taking the car to Autozone to take advantage of their free diagnostic, I found out it was the EGR Valve code again! My question is, does the valve need to be replaced again or just cleaned? It seems odd to me that the valve would fail again less than a year later.
#2 of 2
Re: Nissan Altima EGR Valve [iver729] by clangille
Dec 12, 2007 (6:53 am)
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Replying to: iver729 (Mar 21, 2007 10:51 am)

Not sure if you've fixed it by now, but if not, be careful with this one or you can be thrown for a major loop. I own a 98' Mazda Millenia, and obviously the technology and engineering are completely different than that of an Altima, but I had the same problem last year. The check engine light came on and Auto Zone pulled the code for me. The first mechanic I took it to told me I may just need to clean the actual EGR valve, so I had him do it($75). He deleted the code and it came on the next day. So I went back to him to make sure it wasn't the same code coming back on and he said I needed a new engine knock censor, so I replaced that ($450). He deleted the code and it came back 2 days later. Skeptical of the mechanic now, I took it to someone else who said it needed a new O2 censor($340). Deleted the code, came back after 4 days. So, the next mechanic said I needed to replace all four purge selinoid sensors($700). You see where this is going right? At this point I didn't trust any mechanic. I read forum after forum. Heard it could be anything from a dry rotted hose to a faulty computer. I ordered the manual from Auto Zone's website for $25. After reading the manual front to back I found that if the ports underneath the throttle body are clogged with carbon, it will throw the EGR code. I removed the throttle body, and prayed carbon cleaner in the ports and cleaned them thoroughly. Had the code deleted, and it's been good ever since. Most mechanics will just try the quickest and priciest option first, without really uncovering the real problem. I spent alot of money on this, and turns out I could have done it myself with a $25 manual and $8 bottle of carbon cleaner. BE WARE OF MECHANICS!!!

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