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Volkswagen Eurovan DIY Tips

70 messages,  Last post on Jan 21, 2013 at 9:22 PM

You are in the Volkswagen Eurovan Forum.

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen EuroVan, Volkswagen Vanagon, Van

Share tips for performing your own maintenance and repairs on your Eurovan.

Messages Page 6 of 7

#51 of 70 Re: Eurovan Transmission Shifting [hectorr22] by wunderkar

Dec 23, 2009 (8:51 am)

Replying to: hectorr22 (Sep 19, 2007 7:40 pm)
I had the same problem in my 92 Eurovan. The only real fix for it is to replace the automatic transmission with a manual conversion. Really. The automatics in these vans are - and let's not be coy about it - shite. I bought my Eurovan a month ago, had it certified and was driving it to the Ministry of Transport when the transmission gave up the ghost at a stop light. It's currently being converted to a 5-speed.
 
Check out your local paper for cheap Eurovans or Transporters with manual gearboxes for sale. It may seem like an expensive option but putting another crap automatic is just flushing your money down the loo.

#52 of 70 2002 Eurovan Brake Booster by stebs

Oct 23, 2010 (12:22 pm)

My 2002 eurovan has a brake booster which seems to be leaking pressure. Takes a few minutes to get brake power built up. I understand I should be able to do it myself unless the brake cylinder needs replacing too. Any suggestions out there?

#53 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [weekender3] by sam203

May 15, 2011 (5:23 pm)

Replying to: weekender3 (Apr 01, 2008 5:24 pm)
Hello,
I have a 2001 Eurovan (now parked at the grocery store) that when I turn the key, the dashlights stay on but no resistance in the turning and no response (no clicks, no sound, nothing) . When I pull the key out the lights on the dash remain on. I had to disconnect the battery cable to prevent the battery from running down.
The ignition replacement instructions you posted were unavailable. There was a pdf but the link has gone bad. Can you repost your sequence of ignition replacement instructions?
 
Thank you for any help. I'm stuck.
 
Sam

#54 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [sam203] by weekender3

May 15, 2011 (6:30 pm)

Replying to: sam203 (May 15, 2011 5:23 pm)
It seams that edmunds doesn't have this section anymore. I posted it on my account https://files.me.com/eurovan/kn4wua . The File is a pdf and will automatically download to your computer.
Make sure you read all the threads associated with this, as there might be more information for you to make it easier.
 
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/49!keywords=#MSG49
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/45!keywords=#MSG45
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/38!keywords=#MSG38
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/38!keywords=#MSG38
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/30!keywords=#MSG30
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f124664/27!keywords=#MSG27
 
Good Luck

#55 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [sam203] by jcolombo

May 15, 2011 (7:26 pm)

Replying to: sam203 (May 15, 2011 5:23 pm)
We looked at this, and ended up going to our dealership as this is not a job for the faint of heart.
We had an experienced shop attempt this - twice and $1,400.00 later, ended up going to dealership and all is well.
Moral of this story is go to dealership. Should cost $900-$1,100.00.
Good luck.

#56 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [sam203] by sam203

May 16, 2011 (10:28 am)

Replying to: sam203 (May 15, 2011 5:23 pm)
Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Sam

#57 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [weekender3] by sam203

May 16, 2011 (1:13 pm)

Replying to: weekender3 (May 15, 2011 6:30 pm)
Hello again. I was able to get the old plug out and the new ignition switch in and struggled to get the little screw back in. The dash lights did not come on (as before) when I reconnected the battery (this looked like a good sign). The clock and radio mileage indicator came on as normal. I tried to turn the ignition but the screw came loose again and no start. Does the screw have to be secure for it to get the ignition going or is the screw just for achoring the ignition switch.
Also, is it possible that I have to put the streering color assembly, etc.. back together for it to work?
Here is the dreaded question, if the ignition didn't work with the new switch (and all the above doesn't impact anything) does that mean the ignition lock cylinder?
  
Thanks in advance,
  
P.S. When I tried again, the ignition is frozen and will not allow the key to turn. Can these switches short out?
 
Sam

#58 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [sam203] by weekender3

May 16, 2011 (1:18 pm)

Replying to: sam203 (May 16, 2011 1:13 pm)
I'm pretty sure, the screw is only holding the switch in place, so it can't fall out. I don't think it takes any tortion. You can test by checking if the switch turns when you turn the key in the ignition. Make sure the switch is align properly inside where the switch meets the ignition lock cylinder.
It sounds more like that your ignition lock cylinder is faulty. As the switch doesn't give any resistance to the assembly. Do you feel the clicks when you turn the key? I guess too, if you can't turn the key anymore that this has to do with the ignition lock and not with the switch. To further diagnose the problem, you would have to remove the switch and check the functionality of the lock itself to outrule a locking by the switch. You have to put that little screw in though on the end. The dashboard doesn't need to be assembled for the car to start.
As I said before, it sounds more like a faulty lock cylinder.

#59 of 70 Re: Replacing ignition switch [weekender3] by sam203

May 16, 2011 (1:53 pm)

Replying to: weekender3 (May 16, 2011 1:18 pm)
Ok, so I'll remove switch to see if the ignition turns, after I make sure it is aligned properly. If it doesn't turn, that could highlight a faulty lock cylinder, right?
 
Is that the one I have to go Dealership on?
 
By the way, it did turn the first time I tried this morning once I had it connected. Then the second time I tried, it locked.
 
The parts rep., this a.m., asked me if I needed the "cylinder" with the ignition switch.

#60 of 70 RE: Replacing ignition switch by weekender3

May 16, 2011 (2:27 pm)

I would test it without the switch mounted, then mount the switch again and test again. If the lock cylinder is broken you most likely have to see a dealer, as you need special tools to change it I would assume. Ask them if you can change the cilynder yourself or not. Parts guys are parts guys and usally not mechanics.

Messages Page 6 of 7

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