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Dodge Dakota Warning Lights and Trouble Codes

97 messages, Last post on Sep 29, 2009 at 4:17 AM
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I have a 99 Dakota 2 WD with 90,00 on the clock. I have been battling a Check Engine Light for several weeks. I can reset it, but it comes back on in less than 50 miles. I have had it to the shop and they have replaced the cat and both O2 sensors. The plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are less that a year old. I have even replaced the gas cap. I am at the end of my rope. A new truck is looking better and better. HELP PLEASE!
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| I meant to add this to my question. What bank is BANK 1? The code reader I used mentioned bank 1. Is it the right or left from inside the truck? | |
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Replying to: gerry99 (Jan 08, 2009 4:14 pm) P-420 = Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) A P-420 is triggered when the PCM detects an out-of-range difference between the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. The engine could be suffering from a performance problem. You've changed the ignition components. What about the PCV valve and the air filter? Vacuum leaks? You could have a bad PCM (or was it an ECM in '99?). Regards, Dusty |
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Dusty, Thanks for the reply. The motor is a V6. I should know better. Like I said, both O2 sensors were replaced because the machanic mentioned what you did with the reading going into the cat and that coming out. I'll pick up a PVC valve this week and give it a shot. The air filter is almost new. Is there another filter someplace that I could change. The filter in the tank is good or so I was told. The fuel pressure is 80 PSI on the rail. He hooked up a guage close to the master cylinder by the firewall. Where is the ECM? Any idea about the, "Number 1 Bank?" Right or left side from inside the car? Thanks again. I owe you a beer. Gerry
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Replying to: gerry99 (Jan 11, 2009 6:21 pm) Let's see. I keep forgetting, but I think Bank 1 is always the left side. Newer Chryslers do not have an ECM per se. Engine management and transmission control is handled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The PCM also includes the voltage regulation (charging circuit) circuitry. After giving this some thought, I'm wondering if the catalytic converter is causing your problem. I've seen bad fuel injectors cause this on GM cars, but not yet on a Mopar. How many miles on tthis vehicle? Best regards, Dusty |
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Dusty, Thanks again for getting back. I did change the PVC amd the hose going to it. I also replaced the small vacuum nipple just under it. I reset my "check engine light" and drove the car to work the next day. Sure enough, the light came back on. I have to say, it does run better. Can the timing be adjusted on this vehicle or is it controlled by the PCM? I was thinking that if it was a little retarded it might have an effect. I'll keep trying. Regards, Gerry
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| i have loss of power after truck is at operating temp. jumps/stutters at 2200-2300 rpms codes are p0300,p0315 changed plugs have aprx. 50miles need help 3.7L 5speed standard | |
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lemac13 I'm not real sure how much help I can be since I'm still trying to find answers to my problems. You didn't say how many miles are on the truck. Wires, cap, and rotor may cause a miss. Does it run good at other speeds? Have you changed places where you buy your gas? You may have gotten a little water with your last batch. If so, there are several products that can remove it simply by dumping it in the tank. You may also want to check out your fuel filter. Were the plugs changed before or after this started? Were the new plugs the correct ones for it and were they set correctly? I'm just asking. Mopars used to have a real problem running AC plugs even though the AC charts showed a plug to fit. I would keep with Mopar, Champion, or Bosch. You might also check around the intake for any vacuum leaks or cracked hoses. I've had some of these in the past. Do you know what PO300 and PO315 mean? If not, many auto parts stores will allow you to use their code reader and charts to find out just what they mean. Good luck with getting it worked out. Gerry |
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I did some searching since I wrote you the note. Check out the following site, OBD-Codes.com. It has a lot of great information. Gerry |
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Replying to: gerry99 (Jan 21, 2009 7:35 pm) As I type this message, I forgot the year of your vehicle. Just for the heck of it, check the rubber hoses going to the Evaporator Canister that's located underneath the vehicle just forward of the fuel tank. These hoses are susceptible to cracking and causing Evap faults, although your fault isn't directly related. Also, just in case I haven't mentioned it, check the integrity of the ground straps that attach the exhaust system to the frame or body. There should be one about half way down the exhaust system just under the cab. I think there's another going from one of the exhaust manifolds to the firewall. If they are rusted away or missing, this might cause an electrical problem that affects the O2 sensors. Check back and let me know what you find. Regards, Dusty |
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