Last post on Nov 26, 2013 at 1:28 PM
You are in the Nissan Quest
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Nissan Quest, Auto Repair, Engine, Van
#29 of 164 Re: Nissan Quest Distributor Problem [mikek847]
Jan 15, 2009 (5:33 am)
Being a 1997 with the miles and age is also a problem and maybe lucky that it can still go if it has not had proper care. The distributor is the hart of the engine and when it does not work correct you may get a knock code, miss or what ever. It being a 1997 and unless it has had proper care, you may have more that just one problem!
#30 of 164 Re: Knocking when engine is Hot [chos]
Jan 15, 2009 (8:09 am)
I have compiled the problem and solutions that was posted on the board so far on the engine issues mainly two issues. Engine running rough and knock sensor on CEL. I am not sure if those two are related but I know the injector can also cause the problem similar problem. Replacement of injectors, replacement of knock sensor or replacement of distributor assembly are all costly expenses and I would like to relate problems with symptoms if possible.
Efitzgerald posted following problem and solution:
Started fine and ran fine until it got warm, then it sputtered/misfired and the rpm would dance. Solved this problem by titening ground wire of ECM. Also posed that small photo sensor inside the distributor could cause the problem too.
chos posted following problem:
For the past 7 years I have had the problem that it dies all of a sudden in the middle of the road. This only happens in summertime heat and after I have driven it for a few hours. The problem has gotten progressively worse, as in more frequent and after shorter and shorter periods of driving. After 30 minutes on the side of the road it cranks right up and I drive away.
denham posted following problem and solution:
Runs good when cold, when engine gets hot or well warmed up canít speed up, misses and cuts out. There are no codes showing except knock sensor. Both efitzgerald and denham agrees and denham has solved this problem by replacing the distributor assembly.
Auto_Dummy posted following problem:
Engine running rough and when stopped at a light you can hear the rumbling 'brrrrrr" sound but when I put it in neutral as I wait for the light to change the rumbling subsides and the engine runs smoother. Now I just got finished having to have it serviced to pass a smog test and 2 codes came up one of which was the knock sensor but they didn't replace it cause they said that it was not the reason for the CEL to come on, so they didn't...they just replaced what they called a EGRC-BPT valve and it passed the smog test.
steve posted following problem:
Threw a knock sensor code around 125,000 miles. Wound up replacing it and three injectors. I don't really trust that the indy mechanic knew what he was doing with the injectors. It's running and getting the same mpg as before but it's not as smooth as it was before. It was barely running after the CEL came on though; didn't matter if it was hot or cold. Missing, cutting out and you could smell the unburned gas coming out of the exhaust.
Mikek847 posted following problem:
I have 97' Quest GXE with 150K miles
Problem 1: Eperiencing engine running rough. At times the CEL light comes on with following two codes:
P0325 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire
Problem 2: Summer time when outside temperature is high, and I've driven for more then an hour. Especially on the freeway sitting in traffic jam with an air on. Engine looses power drastically; engine knocks whenever an accelerator is pressed and engine temperature rises (not to the dangerous level but higher then normal). But then when the stop & go traffic is freed, the problem goes away.
#31 of 164 Re: Knocking when engine is Hot [chos]
Jan 20, 2009 (2:38 pm)
Mike from what I read your problem seems in the distributor, there is a bearing on the shaft that gets dry of lubrication from age and miles and wears out and the pickup
eye and coil do not work once they get hot. You can find a distributor on Ebay.
Get back with me!
#32 of 164 97 Quest XE O2 sensor
Feb 07, 2009 (7:08 pm)
CEL decodes to bad "bank 1, sensor 1" oxygen sensor and the auto parts place can't tell me which O2 sensor is the bank 1 sensor. I'm assuming that "sensor 1" indicates before the cat so I think I just need to find out whether "bank 1" means firewall or radiator side. The number 1 cylinder is on the firewall side if that is any reference.
My wife has 137,000+ miles on this van and all of the O2 sensors are original so I don't mind changing more than one of the O2 sensors if necessary to clear the CEL. I noticed that Bosch recommends changing O2 sensors every 100,000 miles. Thanks!
#33 of 164 Re: 97 Quest XE O2 sensor [cchalverson]
Feb 08, 2009 (3:18 pm)
I may have answered my own question. It appears that we only have two O2 sensors, i.e. a pre and post cat sensor. Got confused looking at a Chilton's where it listed four 02 sensors for the Nissan 3.0L versus two 02 sensors for the Mercury 3.0L whereas the 97 Mercury Villager and the 97 Nissan Quest are nearly the same vehicles!
#34 of 164 Re: Knocking when engine is Hot [denham]
Feb 09, 2009 (10:26 am)
What do you mean when you say eye and coil do not work? If this means optical sensor and coil connection, what are symptoms of these? This would help to diagnose to the pin point, I think. Let us know. Thanks.
#35 of 164 Re: Knocking when engine is Hot [mikek847]
Feb 09, 2009 (3:18 pm)
Gets warm or hot you get a knock or miss and little or know pulling power.
The bearing in the distributor goes bad with age and the coil pickup sensor does not get a good signal. Check E Bay and you can get a new distributor complete for less! Get back with me.
#36 of 164 Re: Knocking when engine is Hot [denham]
Feb 10, 2009 (5:12 am)
I agree 100% with Denham. I spent thousands from inept technicians trying to solve this problem... knock sensor codes and o2 codes are symptoms only. If your older Villager/Quest is running rough when warm/hot dont waste your money like I did....get a replacement distributor
#37 of 164 Re: 97 Quest XE O2 sensor [cchalverson]
Feb 21, 2009 (1:35 pm)
I can only find one pre cat HO2 sensor located in the exhaust right after the point where the V6 exhaust pipes come together. A new Bosch OE HO2S didn't clear the CEL so I erased it with the scan tool and it nearly immediately came back on with a P0135 code. Had my mechanic check the wiring this week when he replaced the motor mounts and he said wiring checked out OK, it must be a bad Bosch HO2S. The auto parts place exchanged the Bosch HO2S with another new one and after installation I'm still getting the same CEL code.
#38 of 164 PO 135 PO 141
Apr 20, 2009 (5:38 am)
have you resolved this yet? I am having the same issues on my 96 quest.